Dificuldade
Difícil
Passos
66
Tempo necessário
1 - 3 horas
- Disable Auto Boot 1 passo
- Lower Case 7 passos
- Battery Connector 7 passos
- Trackpad Assembly 7 passos
- Logic Board Assembly 28 passos
- Battery 16 passos
Guia em destaque
Este guia foi considerado super bacana pela equipe da iFixit.
Introdução
Follow this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro using an iFixit kit with adhesive remover. The liquid solvent in the kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it more easily.
iFixit adhesive remover is flammable—use it in a well-ventilated area, and do not smoke or work near an open flame.
To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.
Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics. Follow all instructions and take care where you apply the adhesive remover.
Ferramentas
- P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
- Suction Handle
- iFixit Opening Picks set of 6
- Spudger
- Tweezers
- T5 Torx Screwdriver
- T3 Torx Screwdriver
- iOpener
- T8 Torx Screwdriver
- P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone
- iFixit Adhesive Remover (for Battery, Screen, and Glass Adhesive)
- Safety Glasses
- Latex or nitrile gloves
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Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
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Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:
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Four 4.7 mm screws
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Two 6.6 mm screws
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Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
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Pull first at one corner, then the other.
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Remove the lower case.
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Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
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When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
If I had it all to do over, again, I would blow out the dust with compressed air at this point. During the disassembly, I kept encountering little dust bunnies, and I was very worried that one would get caught in one of the connectors when I plugged everything back up (which wouldn’t get discovered until I put it all back together and tried out all of the components).
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Peel up and remove the insulating sticker covering the battery board, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
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If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.
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Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
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Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the keyboard and trackpad cable connectors.
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Remove the bracket.
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Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch ID and headphone jack cable connectors.
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Remove the bracket.
Here is a first! I did not notice this when disassembling but spent a bit of time validating I had reassembled things correctly. After 35 years of this stuff, you don’t see much new - just smaller. !
—->The 2.4 mm screw closest to the hinge screws into the logic board screw circled in green T8 (larger head)at step 47.
Try finding that screw in your bucket of spares!
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Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
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Disconnect the two speaker connectors by sliding the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable near its connector.
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Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers.
On this step, it helped to use the tip of sharp tweezers to open the small metal tab of the connector to the side.
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Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket.
Wenn möglich das Klebeband nicht abziehen! Zwei Schritte weiter bist Du froh darum.
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Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed.
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Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.
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Verify that no cables get trapped under the board as you install it. Check each marked location carefully.
Would be good to mention (at the end of instructions here) to pay special attention on reassembly that the Touch ID and power button cable does not slip under the logic board at the last moment7
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Remove the two screws securing the battery board:
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2016-2017 models: Use a T5 Torx driver to remove both 3.5 mm screws.
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2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws.
On my mid 2018 15.3” i9 MBP the battery board screws were PL1
On my mid 2018 15.3 i9 MBP the keyboard cable is farther to the left (as shown at Step 23)! When reinstalling, make sure it is under the battery cable and its connector sticking up between the battery cable and the aluminum battery frame.
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To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.
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Additionally, use painter's tape to seal off the area under the trackpad as best you can. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.
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Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.
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Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
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Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
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Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.
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After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery, starting from the lower edge of the bottom, right-most cell.
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Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way underneath both battery cells.
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Lift the cells to fully separate the adhesive, but don't try to remove them from your MacBook yet.
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Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cells to prevent the adhesive from re-bonding as you proceed to the next step.
I had a great deal of difficulty loosening the batteries. The solvent seemed to have little effect on the adhesive strips. Despite efforts, I deformed the batteries trying to get them free.
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If you had trouble getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell and pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.
Wouldnt the wire damage the underside of the cells?
Yes, but you should never re-use a glued-down battery after removing it like this. These batteries are not designed to be re-used, and can pose a fire risk even when removed carefully.
I used dental floss + pastic card for the middle part. Avoided using the adhesive remover for the middle ones.
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Lift and remove the battery.
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Peel off any large strips of adhesive using tweezers or gloved fingers.
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Scrape away any remaining chunks of adhesive with a plastic tool, and clean the underlying areas with adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol. Wipe in one direction (not back and forth) until the chassis is clean and ready for your new battery.
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If your battery came with adhesive pre-installed on the bottom, flip it over and carefully peel away the liner to expose the adhesive. If your battery did not come with adhesive, apply a thin double-sided adhesive tape such as Tesa 61395 to keep your battery in place.
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Carefully position the battery and set it into place.
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Press and hold each cell firmly for 5-10 seconds to secure it to the lower case.
In this photo, the holes that are shown in Step 51, where it states, “2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws,” are in a different position, so that re-securing the battery board doesn’t seem possible.
Step 51 shows the correct procedure for two different models; this step shows only one model, because the procedure here works for both. Order the correct replacement battery for your model, and you’ll have no problem.
I strongly recommend re-installing the touchpad BEFORE installing the battery. Doing that and feeding the ribbon cable through the correct slot will ensure that you don’t block the path of the cable. I did not do this and had to cut some of the framing plastic away to give me just a bit more slack to be able to reconnect the cable.
After you have the touchpad back in, do a “dry” fit of the battery to make sure you see how the battery should go in so you don’t affect the ribbon cable. Then you can peel off the adhesive protection strips to secure the battery.
The version i got had the individual adhesives stuck to what look like tempered plastic that covered the whole battery. Removing the main plastic took off all adhesives at the same time. Its usefull to have another set of hands at this stage.
I had the same problem as others with the adhesive sticking harder to the plastic cover than to the batteries themselves. Another set of hands here would indeed be useful. This was actually the hardest step of the entire process as you cannot reposition the batteries once you set them down. Luckily it seems there is at least a little wiggle room in there. Make sure the power connection lines up with its screw holes as the number one priority.
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After your battery is properly positioned and installed, peel off and discard the clear plastic liner from the top.
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Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.
In order to not remove everything, I reduce the procedure in following only steps 1 to 18 (until trackpad cable is pushed away).
Then I removed the “low “ screws of step 46 in order to losen the fixation of “bottom” of the motherboard, as there is no room to remove the battery board and its ribbons).
Then I removed the two screws of the step 50 (battery board). To take off the glued battery, I used twine or thread (e.g. as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...) but not acetone nor diluant.
Then I lifted very carefully the bottom of the motherboard both to push away the battery board and its ribbons and to reinsert the new battery board and ribbons.
Then I proceed backward to remount (step 50, step 46 then step 18 to 1).
Note: my “old” battery was so inflated that the two screws of the lower case near the trackpad were difficult to remove (sometimes, this leads to a malfunctioning…
Thank to Jeff for this overall procedure which helps me a lot.
wow, this was awesome. thanks whoever wrote it. very well described.
I did the same a @jumbo . So, I’d be happy to rewrite this into a much shorter and less hazard format as @jumbo suggests which works perfectly and has many fewer steps and less risk of injury to the trackpad, motherboard and connected components. I did this in about an hour on my MacBook Pro late 2016.
Plastic liner is not releasing from the battery cells. If I hold the foam pad in place the plastic sheet rips the foam.
Missing one critical helpful notation and photo on the reassembly part - a checklist of all the cables and connectors that need to be checked to make sure they are not caught under the motherboard. I missed the keyboard cable and it cost me half an hour. I checked off all the ones I could remember to make sure they were clear, but just missed that one. A photo with circles and a checklist would be a big help to make sure everything is clear. Otherwise, everything was very well done.
That’s in Step 49. Easy to miss, but it’s there! I feel your pain though, I’ve made that same mistake.
I think that was the same cable I missed… at the bottom by the battery connector. I mentioned it to ifixit to add a checklist as well…. Who is responsible for editing this guide? Do you know?
robert -
OK well, followed the instructions to the word, & pleased to say my problem has now been resolved. So very many thanks for the fix kit & cracking easy to follow instructions. The MacBookPro lives to fight another day.
in knapp 3h habe ich den Akku gewechselt gehabt, passt auf die Unterlegscheiben vom Trackpad auf… die gehen schnell verloren und das Tastaturkabel vergisst man auch mal ganz schnell. Der Guide ist eine super Hilfe gewesen und ohne den hätte ich sicher das MBP noch nicht mal aufbekommen.
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To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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18 comentários
Is this the same procedure for the 2017 MacBook pro 15” ?
Hi the Guide was very good.
Unfortunately In Austrailia i could not get the adhesive dissolver .
I was force to do it with plastic cards (Plastic Cards) and some plastic spludgers.
this worked well enough but also didn’t need to remove the logic board or speakers or anything else.
using some goooff (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...) on a paper town was easy clean up.
reassembly was very easy and the whole process took a bit over a hour.
Note i have worked in electronic industry for a long time so possibly more experienced
Hi!
Can I use the device without battery? How to do it right? Please give an answer
Hi did you able to use the device without battery?
Sunjun -
Yes absolutely :) I have just removed the swollen battery from my MacBook pro 15 inches 2018 and running it on ac adapter now!
Sunjun -
Yes, you can. I am using my Macbook pro 15” 2018 without the battery. However, the processor clock speed is capped to 1.9GHz
Sunjun -
Hi! Thank you a lot for your work. Unfortunately, a camera doesn't work after a replaced battery. sudo killall VDCAssistant didn’t help. What else can I do?
I was able to use dental floss to “saw” through much of the adhesive without needing the adhesive solvent. Assertive prying and patience did the rest. It was a little gut-wrenching when I put it all back together and it wouldn’t power on. I even plugged it into the wall power, and it still wouldn’t come on. After about 20-30 seconds, a green battery indicator popped up on the screen, followed by the Apple boot logo. Whew! Great guide!
When will the battery be available?
Schade, dass nirgends die Batterie für ein Macbook Pro 2018 zu finden ist. Für einen Tipp wäre ich dankbar.
These instructions were fantastic. I was able to with ease replace the battery on my Macbook pro. I did buy the adhesive removal kit and the necessary screw drivers from ifixit where were absolutely necessary. Just be patient and don’t rush things and make sure to read all the instructions and understand them before doing anything.
Excellent guide!
I successfully replaced the battery in my 2018 15” MBP. This guide is fantastic! Some feedback:
1. Step 13 - The battery data cable is the most delicate part to remove. Be *very* careful. I removed it just fine but putting it back was tricky. I got it in but accidentally tore off part of the tab used to tug on when removing it. Luckily, this didn’t compromise the cable and things seem fine.
2. Step 22 - The 9 small metal washers in the trackpad assembly are ridiculously easy to lose. I was very careful, yet they fell out unnoticed on me twice. Luckily I found them each time - some stuck to the display, one in the hinge area, one floating around the trackpad, and one slight bent, having been caught between the trackpad assembly and case on reassembly. I was able to get the trackpad reinstalled with all washers on my third attempt.
3. When I first booted my MBP with the new battery, macOS (Big Sure) didn’t recognize the new battery. I had no Battery preference pane. A reboot fixed it up - luckily!
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
lamajr - Responder
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Responder
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Responder
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Responder
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Responder
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Responder
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Responder
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Responder
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Responder