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Introdução

Do you have a cracked screen or see weird vertical lines? Fear not! Use this guide to remove/replace the display assembly if something terrible has happened to the beautiful Retina display of your MacBook Pro.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - Responder

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - Responder

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - Responder

    Battery Recall for 15-inch MacBook Pro Retina mid-2015. Check Apple’s site for recalls, and put in your serial number. They replaced my swelling battery for free, regardless of warranty.

    Steve -

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - Responder

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - Responder

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede - Responder

    As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

    philtrit - Responder

    As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn - Responder

    Heads up as you go…we (husband/wife team) had a notebook that when screws/covers were removed, we marked the step # and actually taped the screws into the notebook noted by the step number. This was very helpful on reassembly and we knew we would be using the exact screw into the original screw hole.

    Ann Brainard - Responder

    After replacing the batteries myself, I wouldn’t even consider doing it again. Not that it’s difficult to do—that’s not the issue. The issue is aftermarket batteries. I’ve been using notebooks for well over 30 years, and never had satisfaction with aftermarket batteries.

    Modern lithium batteries are an amazing technological feat, but a dangerous one. So even putting aside that I’ve never found any aftermarket batteries with quality anywhere near original, I learned “cheap” aftermarket lithium batteries are downright dangerous.

    After doing research into what’s involved with manufacturing lithium batteries, I know there are so many corners to cut, you’ll end up with junk regardless of what you pay.

    A week after replacing my batteries with those from iFixit, they showed clear signs of failure. Thank goodness iFixit refunded my money.

    After having Apple replace my batteries, everything is back to like-new. For my $199, I got not only excellent batteries, but a new keyboard and trackpad as well. That’s it’s done!!!

    AnnoniMoose - Responder

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath - Responder

    Additionally, this is an “opportunity” to clean the cooling fans - and any other obvious dust magnets - with a can of compressed air. On the laptop I worked on, the cooling fans had sufficient dust to not “spin” freely - showing signs of “drag”. After blasting each cooling fan with compressed air (including from the exhaust vent side, as hitting the fins alone wasn’t adequate), they both spin freely now. No obvious signs of battery swelling on mine, but lack of adequate airflow could have been a factor with original battery aging/failure.

    J G - Responder

  3. The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange). During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - Responder

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - Responder

  4. Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - Responder

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - Responder

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - Responder

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Responder

    It is just the top layer of tape that you want to lift, you need to seperate it from the bottom layer.

    Kelv - Responder

    You don’t actually need to remove the tape or even peel it off at all. Just pull up the battery connector up with the tape still attached.

    AJ Lorenzo - Responder

    pay attention that the macbook in this picture is presented the “wrong side”: if you accidentally remove the tape covering the trackpad cable and thereby also take the trackpad cable out of the zif-socket, your keyboard and trackpad won’t work anymore. putting the trackpad cable back into the (tiny) socket will fix the issue though.

    sam - Responder

  5. Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - Responder

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Responder

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - Responder

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - Responder

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - Responder

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - Responder

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery connector had another layer of plastic on it that I removed first

    Kelv - Responder

    For an A1398, the screws on the adjacent cover were T6, not T5; one of the tips in the battery kit was suitable.

    J G - Responder

    I need dis board hw much

    Ebuka Ofodile - Responder

    After separating the battery connector, I took the addd precaution of placing a folded post-it between the connector bank and the socket.

    Matt Fisher - Responder

  6. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way. The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable. To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.

    • The cable connection points are very fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - Responder

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - Responder

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - Responder

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - Responder

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - Responder

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - Responder

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - Responder

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - Responder

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - Responder

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - Responder

    what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.

    jack32878 -

    As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

    ilukewitschalejandro - Responder

    Just finished replacing both speakers using this guide. VERY good. I did not remove the individual wires - just removed the card with wires attached. Seemed to be the safer, easier way to go.

    Dwight Vaughn - Responder

    How? can you explain the procedure?

    Cosimo Soderi -

    I’m attempting taking the card out but leaving the wires attached as mentioned. A Torx T5 worked for me on that screw. I then very slightly lifted up the end of the card where the wires are attached and pulled it straight out of the slot on the opposite side.

    Sean Gabel -

    Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.

    Alex DeLeon - Responder

    This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.

    I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.

    If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.

    The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.

    prreitz - Responder

    I did not bother with the danger of removing cables or cards or logic board. I spent 30 mins removing my battery carefully, using string and CT1 multisolve which isn’t dangerous to plastic.

    i slid my string under the battery and see-saw underneath and sprayed Ct1 Multisolve underneath. I’ve now done both my macbooks. Didn’t destroy any cables or risk it. I put a few paper sheets over my logic board to cover any spray back. Simple see-saw and a palstic card, the blue spludger and the black long spluger.

    T Master. - Responder

    Yes, I did the full board disassembly on my 2012 macbook last year and once I finished I kind of wondered why I didn’t just work on removing the battery. Is there any real obstacle to doing so here? Can I just spend an hour or so carefully removing the battery? What’s the risk of doing that? again, is there any actual obstacle to removing the battery without pulling out the whole board assembly?

    Brian Lamb -

    You can go straight for the battery if you’re confident enough to improvise a little. Removing the board makes sense if you’re trying to protect the speakers from getting chewed up by the solvent. Otherwise, it’s faster and easier to leave the board in place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Agreed. Just replaced the battery on my 15” MacBook Pro 2015 and I skipped all instruction between step 6 and 46. I just unplugged the battery and removed the trackpad connection. Used some dental floss to cut through the adhesives and a card to help with carefully prying the batteries up. After the battery was removed I used some isopropanol to clean up from the old glue. Installed new battery, attached the trackpad connection ribbon and connected battery. All in all it took me less than one hour. I would not recommend removing the whole logic board just to replace the battery.

    Mackie72 -

    I’m one of those unfortunate ones that simply followed the iFixit instructions before reading the comments. On successfully reconnecting 2 of the cables and (miserably) failing with the 3rd, I realized the relevance of the comments. I decided to take a gamble and leave the 3rd connector unconnected and fired up my MacBook … strangely enough, everything works fine i.e from the comments, WiFi, Bluetooth, Camera (et al) should be affected but they are all still fully operational (maybe they’ll die with time - I hope not). I don’t like the thought of an unattached cable lying around in my Mac hence I agree with those advocating for alternatives to this step (unhinging the WiFi card as opposed to prying these cables).

    Otim Samuel - Responder

    Diese drei winzigen Stecker wieder aufzusetzen war tatsächlich die größte Herausforderung der ganzen Reparatur! Wichtig ist dabei darauf zu achten, diese waagerecht und passgenau aufzusetzen. Ich habe dazu die Lupe meiner Lötvorrichtung genutzt und zum aufdrücken die flache Seite des Spudgers.

    Werner Hampl - Responder

    These antenna connectors are the worst to reconnect. Depending on the model and what repair you are doing, you may not be able to avoid disconnecting them.

    ccfman2004 - Responder

    We took the advice of leaving the wires attached to the card, and unhinging the wifi the card cable. Worked great for us.

    Ann Brainard - Responder

    Ditto on just removing the card and leaving the antenna connected. Worked fabulously.

    Matt Fisher - Responder

    If you do need to get the cables back on the the card, I have found good results using the tip of a T5 driver to gently push them down (of course while aligning carefully with other finger). It gives a firm, flat & precise surface to press with + we know you have a T5 around!

    Tech Medic - Responder

  7. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

  8. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

    This connector is very fragile, the left edge of mine cracked off and ended up in the socket. And during figuring that out the cable or the socket appears to have got damaged because “no camera detected”.

    malhal - Responder

    Yeah, same here.. Not sure what to do now

    Roman Kroupoderov -

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I damaged the fan connector locking latch just by trying to lock it back in place. Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it not making a proper connection. Malcolm, I am wondering how you fixed your damaged connector?

    Robert Habib - Responder

    The connector slides into the socket so using the flat end of the Splunger under the cable and gently lifting draws the connector apart.

    Dennis Newton - Responder

  9. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

    Leave them attached. Remove the single screw holding the board in place and gently wiggle the airport card out (see Airport card removal instructions). Fold the card up and towards the rear of the computer. Now follow the instructions for the camera cable removal. Lift the airport card with the three leads attached and the camera cable up and fold the, to the outside of the case.

    George R. O'Connor - Responder

    This video shows how to do it safely: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AabLlHT5...

    Undo the 3 cables gently. remove the airport card. gently pry away the cables fro the fan plastic. then the camera cable will slide out easily.

    T Master. - Responder

    I was afraid to just pull on any cables adhered, so I used a spudger edge to very gently “scrape” them up instead.

    Matt Fisher - Responder

  10. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

  11. Remove the two rubber hinge covers. Remove the two rubber hinge covers.
    • Remove the two rubber hinge covers.

  12. Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge covers to the upper case. Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge covers to the upper case.
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge covers to the upper case.

    Step 12 involves tiny T5 screws, often held in place by surprisingly strong thread lock compound. Very easy to strip the screw heads. Be absolutely sure you have the right driver for the screw, press firmly, and turn SLOWLY. The amount of force required to break the thread lock is nearly the same force that will strip the screw head. If you run into trouble, and you just happen to have a flat-blade screwdriver that fits exactly, that may work better than a T5 Torx driver. I stripped the screw head on my MBP and a flat-blade screwdriver saved the day.

    David Cavanaugh - Responder

  13. Remove the two aluminum hinge covers from the MacBook Pro. Remove the two aluminum hinge covers from the MacBook Pro. Remove the two aluminum hinge covers from the MacBook Pro.
    • Remove the two aluminum hinge covers from the MacBook Pro.

  14. Remove four out of the six 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display to the upper case. Leave the innermost screws (one from each hinge) in place.
    • Remove four out of the six 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.

    • Leave the innermost screws (one from each hinge) in place.

    • When reassembling, be sure the two screws going back into the hinge on the left go back through the webcam/AirPort cable bracket.

  15. Open the MacBook Pro approximately 110 degrees, and place it sideways on the table, as shown.
    • Open the MacBook Pro approximately 110 degrees, and place it sideways on the table, as shown.

  16. While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower (closer to the table) display bracket.
    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower (closer to the table) display bracket.

  17. Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

  18. Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand. Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly. Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the bottom half keyboard-side down to avoid damaging internal components.
    • Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand.

    • Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly.

    • Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the bottom half keyboard-side down to avoid damaging internal components.

    • Replacement displays may not have their hinges adjusted to the correct angle. Use needle nose pliers to gently adjust them to match the hinges on the display being replaced.

    If you can't get your needle nose pliers under the hinges of the new display, use the blunt end of a 1/8" drill bit through one of the screw holes to leverage the hinge to the correct angle.

    Chris Shenk - Responder

    Another solution is to use a hex key. I also forgot to get needle nose pliers and found a multi-hex key to do the trick of bending the new screen’s hinges into place.

    Aaron Freidus - Responder

    Is this the entire top half of the computer or just the lcd assembly? It looks like your changing the whole thing?

    LyveMarketing - Responder

    So my new screen isnt connecting ugh unsure as to whether I accidentally damaged something, or it just doesn’t work with my Macbook

    epicdino123 - Responder

    Ok, help please, what did everyone’s screen look like BEFORE you did this repair? Mine had no display but you could see a slight blue lighted screen or backlight. No functionality though. I called Apple And they told me that it rarely happens, mine is only five years old and it would be probably between 600 and $800 to fix, and I could do something to hook it up to my TV the cable or just something else to hook it up to my iPad Pro. Put my son in Hawaii was to his trying to take over my screen couldn’t do that because I couldn’t except and he said he didn’t think I could take over my iPad because I would have to download an app and I had no wait to do that with a blank screen. ANY HELP?

    Marcy Wood - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Can the clutch be replaced in the 2015 15" Retina MacBook Pro?

Thomas Taggart - Responder

Successfully replaced screen and everything is working great. One mechanical exception - the black clutch cover is loose on one side (the left side looking at the keyboard). i can "lift it" towards myself. it wasn't obvious while i was in there that there was a step to "hook it" into anything. what has it let go from and how do i go about ensuring that it's secure when it's flipped? Anyone know?

Thnaks!

J Allard - Responder

It was a perfect job! Thanks!

Mike Mell - Responder

Thank you! These instructions couldn't be better.

Devin Fredericks - Responder

Do you have any intention of releasing a guide for the new A1707 2016 pro retina model with touch bar? Thanks for your help.

Michael Moore - Responder

The Touch Bar models are definitely on our road map—it may be a while before we get to it, but we have every intention of writing and publishing those guides as soon as we can.

Jeff Suovanen -

Just bought my new 15 inch retina display replacement and after opening the cover I've noticed that the rubber on the bottom of the screen is off of the screen just like it isn't even attached on the screen and one of the hindges is loose.Is that normal or its faulty new display replacement screen?This is my first time dealing with this kind of replacement.Please help!

s.viktorijoski - Responder

Any word on the A1707 2016 pro retina model with touch bar? Will the 2015 replacement display work with that? If not, will you be selling it?

Dennis Britton - Responder

Any recommendations sources for a new screen? I'm in the UK and Apple won't sell them without fitting them. Any idea on what they cost? Thanks.

David - Responder

Hey did anyone have problems with the screen is blank when the started the computer back up after the screen replacement?

Thanks.

Gregory Lyall - Responder

Yes, I’ve having this problem. There’s no backlight, and I’m afraid to try my password again since I seem to have done something to it while working blind. To see if the computer is on, you can shine a flashlight to the plastic apple part on the back of the screen and see some of what’s on the screen.

But I don’t know how to fix this. I have noticed several comments about this in another iFixit instruction — mid-2014 — so it’s not an uncommon problem.

Lou Schiano -

Fantastic, just fantastic! Thank you yet again iFixit.

James - Responder

Worked like a charm. Thank you Bert much for this manual!

Diederick Magré - Responder

I saved myself ~$900 doing this myself instead of taking to Apple. Great tutorial! Worked perfectly!

Mel Dell - Responder

Given that the most useful thing you’re likely to do once the screen is removed is to remove the clutch cover to tighten the hinge screws, it would be great to show that too. Thanks for the guide that got me as far as getting the screen off.

Steve Evans - Responder

I followed the guide, and did not have any problems replacing the display! I bought the new display on ebay for around 250 EUR and the tools from ifixit for around 40 EUR(with shipping costs), so I kinda saved myself 600+ EUR at least. Thanks Ifixit :D

Adi - Responder

Worked, took me about an hour! Be careful of step 15, the hinges are not interchangeable.

Having troubles at startup, though — the new display works, but shows me an empty battery with a lightning bolt underneath. I plugged it in to charge overnight, and it still shows the same thing. Did I mess up a battery step?

Rachel - Responder

Followed the guide, took about an hour! The new display works, but one problem: it only shows an empty battery icon with a lightning bolt underneath. Is this a problem with reconnecting the battery?

Rachel - Responder

Excellent directions, thanks! I replaced my display with a minimum of drama, works great.

John Bumgardner - Responder

Great Instructions!!! Completed in 1.5 hours. We really appreciated the detailed photos. Saved us hundreds of $$$. Thank you.

jsmith_csi - Responder

Great Instructions. Took me about 1.5 hours and worked great! Saved us hundreds $$$ of dollars in repair costs. Thank you!

jsmith_csi - Responder

Also having the no backlight problem, and nothing shows up on the screen with flashlight in the Apple (white when on, black when off). Faulty display?

Samuel Keechler - Responder

I also have the same problem. Just black display.

silver story -

This worked like a charm. Had an old MacBook pro 2011 15’ that the motherboard cracked but the screen was fine. Friend dropped her 15’ MacBook pro and broke her screen so I used these instructions to swap the screen out - I felt like a total hero. Great job guys and thanks.

Dom - Responder

the macbook screen keeps going dark now any time that i leave it idle for more than 5 seconds. and it hasn’t went to sleep because the keyboard lights and the apple logo on the back are still lit up, even when i close the macbook lid shut. what could have possibly went wrong? how do i fix this ?

mr.solodolo175 - Responder

I just completed a display replacement for a friends MacBook Pro. He got a flawless cheap display assembly from eBay, and the whole process took only 25 minutes. Here is a time-lapse video for those who are interested in it: https://youtu.be/ac4ALQC8C9Y

Jan - Responder

Have to admit that I hesitated to spend $500 for the display because I doubted my ability to repair my MacBook Pro myself, but I took the plunge and purchased the display; followed the instructions to the letter along with the additional comments; and it worked like a charm.  Saved $1,000 in a repair bill at an Apple Service store.  Extend my appreciation to Andrew Optimus Goldberg for authoring this guide and the contributors for their additional follow-through comments.

Terri Mead - Responder

Not a difficult repair at all. I didn’t even have any trouble with the dreaded antenna connectors. The screen I found was $400, so definitely worth doing, as opposed to buying a whole new machine!

jiclark - Responder

Able to replace my broken display on MBP 15”. At first I thought something is wrong when I’ve attached the new display I’ve bought via Amazon. The problem is the model number. :)

After buying the correct model number for the display, it is not that super complicated. The guide really helped a lot.

silver story - Responder

Very informative!

Before I go ahead and try this I wanted to confirm something. I have a bright spot in the middle left of the screen, particularly visible on white background, also the top left and right corners have a slightly blueish glow with a dark background

i can provide pics, before I go shock and awe, is there anything I can do about those?

AlexMorse - Responder

Super Anleitung. Danke!

Thomas Karzelek - Responder

HEllo!

unfortunately, I bought a “new” display in ebay but it had problems with one of its antennas.

after having serious wireless connectivity problems (when bluetooth is on there is almost no wifi connectivity) and trying everything on the software side, i realised one of the antenna connectors was clumsily repaired. the company assumed one of the cables “must be broken”.

I am unable to return the item so i have to find a way to solve it.

would the problem be most likely in that reparation? or somewhere else?

https://ibb.co/XFwgn2c

tips about how to go through this mess?

especulario - Responder

It would be helpful to add the hinge adjustment as a step with a photo showing where the bend needs to be, how its done (where to grip it with pliers), and how to determine what the correct angle actually is.

I’m trying to repair one of these that was dropped from a distance on a carpet, face down while it was open. I was able to reattach the screen where it separated along the top with a heat gun, but the lid doesn’t close completely.

Richard Getter - Responder

Thank you, purchased your Pro tools at Micro Center, this video also helped.

Lou - Responder

I was trying to change the display cable

done thank you!

jacques

jacquessimard - Responder

opération terminé tout fonctionne merci beaucoup

patrick schmidt - Responder

One of the more straight forward display swaps. Compared to the Touch Bar displays these are cake. Takes 30-60 mins.

Ted Teske - Responder

Does anyone know if a screen from a 2013 Retina MacBook Pro 15” can be used in a 2015 Retina MacBook Pro 15”? There are distinct guides, but the connectors all look the same.

Sean Suchter - Responder

Where to find genuine screen (2015 mid 15” mac book pro)

Vijay Ila - Responder

Great stuff! The warnings were worth their weight in gold too, 15 minutes well spent :)

AlexMorse - Responder

Now the hard part is finding the actual display in stock at reasonable prices! :(

Juan Guzman - Responder

can you use regular LCD replacement on mid 2015 Retina Display?

Maxwell Merzin - Responder

Hi! Question: On this model, can the antenna be replaced here by disconnecting the display?

Raymahl Sutton - Responder

Hi, I’m not sure if anyone have already ask this question; Is it possible to replace the front rubber bezel for this model? If so, what’s the level of difficulty.

Thank you!

Jason Quitazol - Responder

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