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Use this guide to replace a broken hard drive cable. The hard drive cable also contains the sleep LED and the IR sensor.

  1. Remove the following ten screws:
    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

    • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

    Does void the warranty?

    jfondeur - Responder

    No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically:

    oakdragon12 - Responder

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Responder

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

    Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Responder

    Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

    Seji the veggie -

    What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

    Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

    pmhparis -

    The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!

    While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.

    Dan -

    I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

    John Adam Wickliffe - Responder

    Hey guys,

    this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

    I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

    renatumb - Responder

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Responder

    Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

    kschmesk - Responder

    Totally agree!! I used the #00 screwhead for 7 out of the 10, but for the remaining tricky ones I used the #0 screwhead and it helped me out. I was so worried I would strip the tiny screw, but this comment saved me!

    Juliana Mak -

    I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

    Alex - Responder

    The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

    . Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

    I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

    brian whittle - Responder

    Hello MacWorld,

    Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

    wer 10/5/15

    tayseer999 - Responder

    I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

    ForumHermit - Responder

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Responder

    on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

    Maximilian Klotz - Responder

    I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

    gilded yak - Responder

    Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

    Jack - Responder

    I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…

    Michael Wilkens -

    I’ll second that. I could never find them being different.

    otetz -

    Same here… I could not notice hte difference. Anyone at iFix would like to comment?

    LDS -

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Responder

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

    Stephen Smith - Responder

    A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

    Wilder Torres - Responder

    Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

    airshack - Responder

    when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

    this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

    Matt - Responder

    It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same

    Luca Giancarli - Responder

    If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.

    Raymond Ives -

    The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

    Don Cely - Responder

    Two screw types:


    Shouldered Unshouldered






    El Crashitan - Responder

    If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

    Patrick Langvardt - Responder

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Responder

    I did this last weekend, and definitely, a Phillips #000 screwdriver is required (not a Phillips #00!)

    Javier Campos Delgado - Responder

    WIll this card be good with MacBookPro 17 inch 2011

    Zafar Ali - Responder

    I just followed this guide and it really helped me install a replacement cable and a new Samsung 860 EVO 500gb SSD in my aging MacBook Pro 13 A1278 MID 2012. It’s performing like a new machine now! The guide worked fine, but I’m curious why this HD cable costs €45 on Ifixit’s webshop, and only €13 on (I live in Europe)? The Amazon purchase also included two screwdrivers and a spudger.

    Jeff Baker - Responder

    I found out that one way to reduce the chance to loose screws is to leave them in their holes of the lower case right after unscrewing them. In fact, you can put the lower case back in place with all but one screws in place. The only one that I ever needed to put apart was the long one at the top right in the picture (the one that goes close to the display data cable underneath the lower case). Hope this help others! and you stop wondering about shouldered versus not shouldered short (3.5mm) ones :-)

    LDS - Responder

    For a MBP 2011, I’m not able to unscrew one of the 14.4 mm in the lower back. Can I know how can I get that done?. Thank you..

    Rajesh Rajasekharan - Responder

  2. Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent. Remove the lower case.
    • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Remove the lower case.

    If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

    Thanks for your help.

    Mikell - Responder

    bonjour cette truc ça marche au mac Brook pro Retina ou pas?

    Shi Feng - Responder

    Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !

    Claire Rapp -

    Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

    Volkan Ogul - Responder

  3. Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.
    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Responder

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Sooo the track pad is under the kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.

    stiknrudder -

    This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

    Steven Layton - Responder

    My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

    Diego Hernandes -

    Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!

    stiknrudder -

    Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

    ausmkv - Responder

    wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

    Peter - Responder

    I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

    John - Responder

    simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

    toiu - Responder

    What do you mean by "remove the battery"?

    Anrothan -

    Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

    fasthans - Responder

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Responder

    Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

    MacProUser - Responder

    Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

    Simon Mundy - Responder

    I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

    Zeerachen - Responder

    Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

    Ed Oliver - Responder

    DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

    Bradley Marks - Responder

    Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

    No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

    nichoferr - Responder

    Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

    Mfernandez - Responder

    This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

    Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

    BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

    wassberg -

    Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

    Stephen Smith - Responder

    I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

    Raymond Rinaldi - Responder

    Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

    Marijke de Vries - Responder

    The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static.

    B T - Responder

    I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

    airshack - Responder


    Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

    Myzcio - Responder

    I have a late 2011 MacBook Pro 13in and did not disconnect the power from the battery. I upgraded from 4gb to 16gb and worked perfectly. Just make sure to power it down and be gentle. It was super easy and quick, and I feel a significant boost in performance. Cant wait to install my 1TB SSD Samsung 860 next!

    Rock Hash - Responder

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Responder

    u can use 16GB DDR3 @ 1600mhz. intel says 16 @ 1333, and apple 8.

    apple will solder even the folders to the background for to sell you the “open” or “move to the trash” command. if the battery is not removable, its not a casuality…. u can be sure

    Oscar Sanchez - Responder

    Would draining the battery (by using the machine until it runs out of power) do the trick for this? Seems it would be less risky than potentially damaging the connector/cable during disconnection for example.

    moshimoshi - Responder

    Cannot install any os on new ssd ? Mac is reading it.. please help

    robertbruen - Responder

  4. Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

    What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

    Diego Hernandes - Responder

    The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

    The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

    One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

    Great guides. Thanks!

    timgunkel - Responder

    Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

    Sal Ergrapes - Responder

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Responder

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

    Ian Thal - Responder

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Responder

    does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

    Darren Rose - Responder

    Très bonnes explications. Concernant le débranchement de la batterie, faute de “smudger”, on peut le faire tout doucement avec le bout des ongles (s’ils ne sont pas coupés trop à ras, LOL), et surtout ne pas tenter de le faire d’un coup: il faut y aller tiers de mm par tiers de mm. Le retrait des anciennes mémoires n’est pas facile non plus, car on a très peu de place pour manœuvrer, là encore il faut y aller petit à petit, avec les plus grandes précautions! La barrette située le plus profond doit être soulevée assez fortement dans sa partie libre pour pouvoir être extraite de son étroite cuvette et ce n’est pas simple. Le remontage est nettement plus simple que le démontage. Il faut surtout faire très attention à ne pas confondre les petites vis à épaulement avec celles qui n’en ont pas. Je conseille, avant de remettre le couvercle de fond du Mac, de faire un essai de redémarrage pendant une minute ou deux pour bien voir si tout est OK.

    Lionel Colbere - Responder

  5. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.

    • These screws will remain attached to the hard drive bracket.

    These were Philips #0 screws in my computer.

    Church Tucker - Responder

    Yup I think should be #0. Fits better.

    ezkay -

    FYI my used Mac didn’t have the bracket or screws. 3D printed the bracket someone did (it’s on Thingiverse), M2x10mm screws were short but worked.

    sbierly - Responder

  6. The Essential Toolkit

    The most helpful tools in our most compact kit.

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    The Essential Toolkit

    The most helpful tools in our most compact kit.

    Comprar agora
  7. Remove the hard drive bracket.
    • Remove the hard drive bracket.

    • The hard drive bracket may be firmly seated against the upper case.

    Don't miss this step: I almost did and of course couldn't get the disk out until I looked at the video !

    francistasset - Responder

  8. Use the attached pull tab to lift the hard drive out of the upper case.
    • Use the attached pull tab to lift the hard drive out of the upper case.

    • Don't try to completely remove the hard drive just yet. It is still attached to the hard drive cable.

  9. Pull the hard drive cable away from the body of the hard drive. Remove the hard drive.
    • Pull the hard drive cable away from the body of the hard drive.

    • Remove the hard drive.

    The hard drive cable is a recalled part on these machines. You may need to replace it before your drive will be read correctly. The Apple Store will replace your cable for free if it's problematic.

    Eric March - Responder

  10. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  11. Remove the following four screws:
    • Remove the following four screws:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips screws

    • Two 9.7 mm Phillips screws

    I'm missing the two 3mm Phillips screws and need to buy some. Are they 3mm long or is it the diameter or both? If you can copy a link with the right screws to buy that would be really helpful! Thanks a lot.

    Tartine - Responder

    I'm finding that it's pretty much impossible to remove the two 3mm screws holding the cable down. Any hints on that?

    Andrew Huey - Responder

    is there anywhere i could buy another set of the screws that hold down the hdd cable? i think mine is broken and i could get it out of it's socket, any information about the screw specs is very appreciated, thanks

    Andy Wijaya - Responder

    Is there a special technique to "bend" the mid-attachment of the replacement cable into place? The cable is straight and I don't want to use force or a tool to bend it down over the edge. The 3mm screws won't go in (as they are pretty short), as long as the holes of the cables are right above the screwholes of the macbook. Thanks a lot in advance.

    Thomas Lange - Responder

    Andrew Huey & Andy Wijaya, how did y'all take out the two 3mm Phillips screws? I stripped mine. I've tried the rubber band, doesn't work. I'd rather not try the super glue. This is all I have left to take out. Please help; thank you. God bless (1 Corinthians 15:1-4 KJB)!

    Glenda - Responder

    I also would like to know where to buy a new set of the 3mm screws, anyone?

    Nick Lauritzen - Responder

    I have a mid-2009 MBP. Removing the 3mm screws was nearly impossible. I read that Apple uses loctite glue to secure the screws. Someone recommended touching the hot tip of a glue gun (minus the glue, of course) to the screw head. Doing so heats the screw and loosens the loctite. It worked well for the first one, I rushed the second and striped it so badly that I had to use a drill to bust up the screw head. I didn’t have a bit small enough to breakup the entire the screw, but I was able to pulverize the head so that the mounting surface was flat, which enabled me to install the new cable. At the moment, my cable is held in on that side by just the one screw and the weight of the hard drive. I’d like to replace the missing 3mm screw but I’d have to drill out the rest of the broken screw to have hole to put it in. Not exactly looking forward to that….perhaps if I just use some electrical tape to secure it down? On the upside, the new cable is working and my mac is up and running again.


    jojojo5683 - Responder

    Replacement screws can be bought on Amazon - search 3mm laptop computer screw kit

    jojojo5683 - Responder

  12. Carefully peel up the thin IR sensor/sleep LED ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
    • Carefully peel up the thin IR sensor/sleep LED ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  13. Pull the front hard drive bracket containing the IR sensor/sleep LED away from the front edge of the upper case.
    • Pull the front hard drive bracket containing the IR sensor/sleep LED away from the front edge of the upper case.

  14. Remove the hard drive cable.
    • Remove the hard drive cable.

    • Your replacement part may come with several adhesive foam bumpers. These are to ensure a snug fit of both bracket and hard drive. Apply only as needed.

    The replacement cable comes without the sleep led attached. Thus you have to remove the flat cable of the sleep led from the socket of the old hd cable. Take your fingernail and lift the side of the socket opposite to the cable. It's really tiny! Afterwards insert the new cable and push gently on the part lifted up before.

    Skyynet - Responder

    Hi, I feel like this article is missing an important step at the end. How do I replace the new IR sensor/sleep LED with the old one that is still attached to the front hard drive bracket? I see Skyynet answered this but it is still nor clear. Pictures would be nice. Thanks!

    Reece - Responder

    You just gently pull out the old cable and insert the new cable into the small plug as skyynet suggested. It all seems to smoothly realign and guide itself.. you don't have to do much work to get things to affix.

    ydlwhite -

    Hi. What is the purpose of the 5 black rubber pads that are shipped with the cable kit?

    coffeenow - Responder

    Step 13 has the note: "Your replacement part may come with several adhesive foam bumpers. These are to ensure a snug fit of both bracket and hard drive. Apply only as needed." - This would be if the drive width had a gap and allowed it to move "sideways" in and out of the torx post holes. I didn't need them.

    prall -

    it's not clear whether the new cable should come with a new bracket or the old one is also fine ? here in europe most hdd cables ship without bracket

    natalie - Responder

    Yes, this was fiddly and it needs extra photos. I only got this done with the aid of a magnifying glass.

    John Walker - Responder

    Does it matter if I accidentally folded the cable? I was trying to replace the harddrive and my cat jumped on me. There is an obvious fold line on the cable but the harddrive is still readable and everything seems to be fine. Do I need to replace the cable?

    John - Responder

    You can get the cable with or without the bracket and IR sensor assembly. Opt for with the bracket, makes it much easier.

    ** Note to iFixit, the install of the new cable would be much easier if the cable was pre folded where it bends up from the bottom where the two 3mm screw holes are. Thanks.

    Damian Holland - Responder

  15. Your replacement part may or may not come with the front (sensor) bracket. If it does not, you'll need to transfer it to your new cable. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the "lever" of the ZIF connector (left side in first photo) on the hard drive cable. The connector does not come off, see next instruction. Gently pull the yellow sensor bracket cable out of the ZIF connector (to the right, in the second photo).
    • Your replacement part may or may not come with the front (sensor) bracket. If it does not, you'll need to transfer it to your new cable.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the "lever" of the ZIF connector (left side in first photo) on the hard drive cable. The connector does not come off, see next instruction.

    • Gently pull the yellow sensor bracket cable out of the ZIF connector (to the right, in the second photo).

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable up off the sensor bracket to which it is adhered.

    • Remove the adhesive backing from your new hard drive cable, stick it onto the sensor bracket, and connect the sensor bracket cable.

    • Many fixers cover the length of the thicker cable in the pair with sections of electrical tape on both sides because it can rub the tiny ridges inside the aluminum case causing a short to the case itself or simply breaking the connection.

    This section is backwards, do not try to remove the IR sensor ZIF connector until you have removed the hard drive cable gently from the bracket as @Skyynet says above, by using a "fingernail (or the spudger) and lift the side of the socket opposite to the cable" gently, it's glued on. Then you can wiggle the ZIF connector off of the hard drive cable with your fingers.

    Mark Mikofski - Responder

    My apologies, I was incorrect in my previous comment. The ZIF connector is a little flap on the hard drive cable that can be opened by flipping it up. This makes extracting the IR sensor easier. Removing the hard drive cable from the bracket may also make removing the IR sensor from the ZIF connector, but only if you've opened the flap. The new cable should already have the flap of the ZIF connector open, so make sure to close it. But does anyone know how you can tell if the IR sensor is connected? It's so small it's hard to tell if it can slide in further.

    Mark Mikofski - Responder

    Also note there are 3 photos in this step, you can view them by hovering over each one. Click to enlarge.

    Mark Mikofski - Responder

    Very nice set of close up photos of the hard drive cable IR sensor ZIF connectory are here:

    Mark Mikofski - Responder

    I would recommend using tweezers that come with the ifixit tool kit to properly insert the sensor bracket cable back into the sensor bracket. I had trouble with my computer in which the solution was that this step was not executed properly in my repair of the hard drive cable installation. I encourage everyone to make sure the bracket is fully and properly put back in the bracket otherwise the hard drive will appear to malfunction.

    chasethomas642 - Responder

    I have replaced my cable and my hard drive is now functioning normally again. Unfortunately, the sleeping LED is no longer functioning. I've removed the HD once again and realized the lever wasn't down on the ZIF connector. I pushed it down and put the bracket back into place. Unfortunately, the LED is still not working. I am assuming the connector is either not far enough inside, or the LED on my new cable is broken. I am however reluctant to open everything up again but I am afraid I will break something on the connector, eventually. Am I risking any missing functionality on my Mac by not fixing the sleeping LED? Will my Mac/HD still fall asleep, do Bluetooth devices still work?

    Joff19 - Responder

    Thank you, it worked fine.The connection to the LED is very hard using my fat fingers...

    alfredovogel - Responder

    Thanks for this - yes, the final little detail about getting the yellow ribbon in is tricky indeed, I feared I’d bend it too many times and end up breaking it. Also, as there is no way to know if it’s placed far enough in, a bit of guess work. But, 3 mins to re-assemble, and hit power - booted up like immediately, perfect. Cheers - Pat

    Patrick Sgro - Responder

    Great thumbs up for very hi-res photos for this section. This thing was THE hardest in this guide. If you haven’t got courage to do this, just buy the one with bracket. Even if you have - zoom into the picture. It will save the day.

    If you have hard time putting the cable back into the ZIF connector, try gently pushing the cable down against the bracket while pushing it into the connector. Simply pushing the cable into the connector doesn’t seem to work well.

    Collapsed PLUG - Responder

    Super good guide, I saved my old MacBook Pro 2012 from blank screen.

    Simba Z - Responder

    I just did this step and I’m concerned I might have bent the little yellow cable or not seated it far enough into the connector. More will be revealed.

    My suggestion might be to re-insert the cable before sticking the hard drive back onto the bracket. It might provide more flexibility and a better angle at getting the sleep LED cable back in the ZIF connector.

    This is just for the sleep LED? and the IR sensor? right so if we don’t care about the LED for sleeping hard drive and never use the IR sensor then it doesn’t matter, right?

    Adam Hechler - Responder

    Just replaced this and saved my mac and me from purchasing all new cloud software ! THANK YOU!

    adesign101 - Responder

    Good guide, great, thanks! It simply works like a charm.

    I’d extend Adam’s suggestion: insert the LED cable into the connector before glueing the connector plate onto the holder. This way you can use both hands, find the correct angle and fiddle the little thingy into place. If you do it behind a magnifying glass it’s even easier.

    Grix - Responder

    Thanks for this useful guide that enabled me to do this job myself. I found the last step was the trickiest one, so much so that even though I was careful I managed to break the ZIF connector as I was trying to put it back in after also having some difficulty figuring out how to disconnect it. Part of the problem was that I stuck the new cable to the base of the holder before I tried to plug the ZIFF connector back in and did not manage at first attempt to get it close enough to the white housing to be easily within reach of the ZIFF connector that I think is why it broke when I tried to put it back in. It was not a nice surprise but fortunately when I completed the reassembly the hard disk started working again with no problems that was my reason for changing the cable, so losing an LED light and some sleep (pun intended) was worthwhile.

    hundredmeterskoven - Responder

    Fantastic guide!  This was my first foray into any computer, and now my MacBook Pro is good as new.   Many, MANY thanks!!!

    Richard Belcher - Responder

    Hi everyone, I followed all the steps, everything is ok but the LED does not work and not even the closing sensor. What else can I do?

    riumalab - Responder

    How to tape the Kable? Only where the “sharp” aluminum edges are, or everywhere. A picture would be helpful.

    If only the aluminum edges are the problem, would it be an option to tape the edges, not the cable itself?

    Moritz Pfeil - Responder

    I agree, please provide pictures for that one!

    Phil Wagner -

    I don't know If you guys are still looking for one but I am suddenly finding myself in this predicament and I ran across a YouTube video.

    ?v= Amg5w0rlwDo

    imark7777777 -

    My replacement cable arrived today, and sadly, it doesn’t seem to be working. If I have it plugged into the motherboard the computer won’t even start up; with the old, faulty cable plugged in the computer starts. Any suggestions for things to try?

    clovell - Responder

    silly suggestion, but hey just in case, did you check the battery was fully plugged before putting the lid back on?

    Gustavo Gomez - Responder


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

214 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Quick and easy fix a repair shop would have charged a small fortune for. The only thing I'd add is if your replacement has built in glue like mine did be careful installing it as it will stick anywhere and everywhere!

David Talbot - Responder

We upgraded our hdd to an ssd and in the process must have damaged the sata cable. Macbook worked for a month before we got the flashing ? folder of death. Investigating we noticed the cable was partly ripped. This guide was perfect for replacing the cable, and now the macbook is working fine again! Brilliant! Just be careful to anyone replacing the hdd, the sata cable can tear easily.

lachlan - Responder

I've replaced my hard drive cable twice now. The problem seems to be that the underside of the aluminum unibody has small ridges on it (you can see them, but they are small. The cable rubbed back and forth on these ridges, and you could see where the cable had shorted where it had worn away. It doesn't take much.

I found a youtube fix which involved only laying a piece of electrical tape along the underside of the cable (underneath the drive), and another piece along the body itself. A couple minutes and few cents worth of electrical tape later and all was working fine.

Jim Good - Responder

Do you recommend backing up your hard drive before doing this? I have not backed mine up and need to get this part replaced

Lindsay Nunnery - Responder

I think i might have damaged the yellow ribbon that needs to be reinserted into the new sata cable because i recently installed one and had it fail 2 weeks later and just got a new one that isn't loading up the sign-in menu but at least begins to read the hard drive instead of going straight to the ' ? ' folder. However, it will just continue to read the hard drive and stay at the loading screen with the apple icon and a spinning gray loading wheel below it without any progress. Any thoughts? I was thinking the yellow cable could have somehow been damaged. Does anyone know the name of the part with the yellow ribbon? It is connected to the bracket that sits below the hard drive.

Mike - Responder

Guide is easy to follow, successfully replaced the sata cable.

Unfortunately my Mac does not recognise the battery anymore now. Does anybody have an idea what went wrong? Or even better: how to fix it?

I unsuccessfully tried a PRAM as well as an SMC reset.

Florian - Responder

Thank you for this. Bought the cable from you guys and got it running in 10 minutes!

Heydar Adel - Responder

I placed my macbook inside the microwave to rebind the components and both are broken

Miguel Negron - Responder

Two days ago MBP would not turn on at all, instead an error message (folder with blinking question mark) popped up on start-up. I stumbled onto this site on a search to buy a new cable, and I was surprised that ifixit also provide comprehensive step-by-step process! Since I know nothing about computers, I was super psyched and allowed me to purchase from the site without hesitation. I changed my cable and now my laptop turns on without a problem. ALSO- I went by Apple Store today on a whim to ask about fixing the hard drive cables- the guy said that it would costs approximately $130 with 3~5 days waiting period. :) This site is amazing!

Andie Lee - Responder

This is the second time I've needed a replacement hard drive cable on my 2011 MacBook Pro, and it's been about the same amount of time since the previous one as that was after I bought the computer. Last time, though, I had to take it to an Apple store and have them do it; this time, I did it myself. Thanks!

ohinds8 - Responder

It worked for me! Many thanks!

Malgorzata Szoc - Responder

My macbook pro wouldn't boot one day, out of the blue.

After exhausting PRAM SMC resets, (attempted) booting into recovery, etc, this finally did the trick!

Removal wasn't too bad but it should be noted that you do have to remove the screws from the bracket that hold the IR sensor out and install on the new cable assembly.

Other than that, it was a piece of cake!

Thanks iFixit!

thebeez85 - Responder

the part they sell is a rip off 5+ days for shipping and cost 50 dollars amazon has it for $18 and overnight shipping was 3 dollars more or free 2 day ..... i love these fixit videos but dont think we are dumb and buying your parts for what apple sells them for! amazon is only way to buy

melissa cannon - Responder

Just replaced my cable for the second time. Next time I’m buying it with the bracket, it’s only $5 more. And I buy everything I can from ifixit in order to support the site. Too much info here to not support it.

stevencbaldwin - Responder

Thank you so much. This worked great.

Rob Coenen - Responder

Thanks much for the instructions and support! My repair went like a breeze…..10-15 minutes and my 2011 MBP back alive!

Manoj Narayanan - Responder


I want to upgrade my MBP 13” early 2011 to a mid 2012 by replacing the Logic board. Do I need to replace the SSD cable too, and if yes why?

Andrea Pastore - Responder

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