Ir para o conteúdo principal

Introdução

Use this guide to replace the entire display assembly on your MacBook Pro, in order to fix a cracked or faulty screen. This assembly also includes the integrated ribbon cables that sometimes fail as part of the “FlexGate” defect on earlier models, so replacing it will also resolve the “stage lights” effect and other issues resulting from ribbon cable damage.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% charge before you begin.

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: step 1, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: step 1, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: step 1, image 3 of 3
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Responder

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Responder

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Responder

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Responder

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Responder

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Responder

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Responder

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Responder

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Responder

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Responder

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Responder

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Responder

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Responder

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Responder

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Responder

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - Responder

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - Responder

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - Responder

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - Responder

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 6.2 mm screws

    • Four 3.4 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas

    Olivier Cecillon - Responder

    Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !

    c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .

    l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon

    Vincent Morault - Responder

    Bonjour Vincent,

    Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Claire Miesch -

    Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS

    Gilles Vigeral - Responder

    Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….

    Gilles Vigeral - Responder

    Nothing beats a properly grounded ESD workstation, and a grounded wrist strap.

    Robin Ray - Responder

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Open a gap using a suction cup: step 3, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Open a gap using a suction cup: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.

    • Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Separate the clips: step 4, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Separate the clips: step 4, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Separate the clips: step 4, image 3 of 3
    • Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

    The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.

    dkraemer2 - Responder

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 6, image 3 of 3
    • Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.

    • Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.

    • Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

    Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.

    Troy Reimche - Responder

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This can require a lot of force.

    On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.

    Cool_Breeze - Responder

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Remove the lower case: step 8, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Remove the lower case: step 8, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Remove the lower case: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Uncover the battery connector: step 9, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Uncover the battery connector: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • Remove the tape.

    Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.

    Emmanuel Neff - Responder

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

    While the tape in this step was definitely attached to the ribbon cable, I accidentally pulled it off during Step 9, thinking that it was a tab to remove the larger tape covering the whole battery connector. It didn’t seem to do any harm.

    cdowney - Responder

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

    Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?

    Jamie Near - Responder

    Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.

    Wayne Linder - Responder

    The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.

    William Brittain - Responder

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 2
    • Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.

    The cable is held down with adhesive. Be very gentle with the delicate cable as you peel it back.

    dkraemer2 - Responder

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Disconnect the battery: step 15, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Disconnect the battery: step 15, image 2 of 2
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.

    SchroedersKater - Responder

    (Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.

    S Woo -

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Antenna Cable Assembly: step 16, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Antenna Cable Assembly: step 16, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Antenna Cable Assembly: step 16, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the four 1.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the plastic covers on top of the display hinges.

    • Remove both plastic hinge covers.

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable.

    • Remove the cover.

    These are T4 screws on A1706 EMC 3163

    Rex Juggler - Responder

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector.

    • Remove the cover.

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 19, image 2 of 2
    • Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 20, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the four 1.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two aluminum covers on top of the two display cable connectors.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers.

    When re-installing the display, be careful to make sure that the display cable from the logic board sits properly ABOVE its connector on the display hinge.

    dkraemer2 - Responder

    What is the exact size of these screws? lost one trying to put it back in and trying to figure out what I need to buy

    laughing rice - Responder

    Step 20….those are T4 Torx screws, not T3.

    scott - Responder

    Is this step necessary? actually i did it, but when installing the new screen, i found the 2 aluminum covers already in the new screen, so i installed the new one without taking them out…

    after it worked, i believe we can skip this step.

    my laptop is 2017 15”, 1707

    Ghannam Adham - Responder

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the four 3.9 mm T5 Torx screws (two from each side) securing the antenna cable assembly.

    • Also remove the twelve 1.1 mm P2 pentalobe screws (six from each side).

    The 1,1mm screws are completly stuck, I have the screwdrivers but the screws are just not turning. Any tips how to take them off ?

    I tried other screwdrivrer and put a rubber on it while trying to take it off but nothing works,

    Gerard Soprani - Responder

    Had the same problem with my ‘quality’ P2 screwdriver. A dirt cheap set from Ya Xun, nr. YX-6025 saved the day

    Niels Beijer - Responder

    I found that a form downward pressure and gentle slowly increasing rotational pressure consistently worked

    david - Responder

    The 1.1 screws are at a slight angle (on the 2018 model, not sure about the 2017 one) so make sure you angle your screwdriver around 10° off vertical towards the rear edge of the machine.

    Cool_Breeze - Responder

    Stripped a number of these with two different repair kit screwdrivers (other brands). Waiting on a 3rd screwdriver to arrive and then will resort to super glue or a dremel to fit a tool to these and remove. Terrible time with this.

    ajdixon91 - Responder

    Just removing four LCD screen’s now. This is the worst part by far. I have what I thought was a reasonable quality Baku BK-338 P2 Pentalobe screwdriver. I am onto the third display removal and the WiFi antenna removal is where the fun begins. On the first two WiFi antenna, about five (too depressed to count them) screws rounded out in the pentalobe head. I managed to get them all out using flush cutters - gripping them with the cutters as flush as I could to the surface of the antenna and just trying to get them to rotate CCW a little to “break the seal“ so to speak without cutting in so deep as to totally mangle the head and locking them in even tighter :)

    Peter Newman - Responder

    Then I pushed them tangentially with one arm of some stout tweezers and slowly worked them out. Got them all out with minimal damage to the brass part of the antenna but I am confident it will still function OK. On the third one now and four rounded out so I better get back to it. A totally s**t way to attach them and far too many screws IMO. My biggest tip is using a quality tool like the Wera or Wira brands, pushing down into the screw and carefully and slowly applying rotation force. Have some flush cutters on standby in case you round any screws out and good luck.

    Peter Newman - Responder

    F# Apple for making pentalobe screws and f# them for using this many.

    Patrick Simons - Responder

    Wiha calls the P2 driver a 1PL

    maccentric - Responder

    Pay attention: in both sides the two 3,9 mm T5 Torx screws they are different from each other.

    DO NOT mix then otherwise you will won’t be able to install then again correctly.

    Manuel Da Silva - Responder

    Wiha 1PL worked perfectly. the 2PL was too big.

    Robin Ray - Responder

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 22, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 22, image 3 of 3
    • Carefully disconnect the three antenna coax cables by prying them straight up from the logic board.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

    A good check that the antenna cables are connected properly, is to gently wiggle the wire. The connector will move back and forth without disconnecting. If you press too hard when reconnecting, the soft brass can become damaged, and you'll need a new antenna bar.

    Robin Ray - Responder

  22. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the 2.8 mm T5 Torx screw securing the three antenna coax cables to the main board.

  23. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 24, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 24, image 3 of 3
    • Use an opening pick to lever out the antenna cable assembly in the areas shown.

    • Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, because there are two display cables that can be damaged.

  24. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 25, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat pipe.

    Reversing this step was the hardest part for me. There is a small “tunnel” that runs under the heat pipe which the 3 antenna cables plus the securing bracket must be threaded through. The shortest cable easily got stuck or pushed off to the side under the heat pipe. After many attempts, I found success by bending the 3 wires ever so slightly to the left before inserting them in the tunnel, so that when they make it through the tunnel, they were more prone to stay straight. It was easy to grab them one by one with tweezers by doing that. Just have to be very careful.

    cdowney - Responder

    To easily fit the antenna cables – turn the whole antenna assembly about 90 degrees ccw and wiggle it a bit back and forth. Since the cables are a bit prebent they quite easily “pops” up – no need to tie them together. The last trick is to not forget the metal tab – using tweezers or a spudger to help guide the tab in position.

    John Ross - Responder

  25. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the antenna cable assembly.

    • During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.

    I had a LOT of trouble re-installing the three antenna cables underneath the heat pipe! The only way I could get them through was to use clear tape to bind the three antenna connectors together tightly into one pointy end. I was able to push that through into place, but I was not able to push the three separate wires through.

    dkraemer2 - Responder

    It’s possible to avoid this problem by just not removing the antenna assembly entirely. I secured the three cables and the screw holder together with a small cable tie to avoid them slipping out. You can fit the new screen without removing the assembly completely.

    Stuart Mc -

    Thanks dkraermer2 for that tip of wrapping all 3 wires into a narrow point. I used Capton tape. The metal screw holder needed help as it catches on a ridge in the MB. I used tweezers to “Lift” it over that last ridge.

    lamajr - Responder

    Make sure the antenna cable assembly locates correctly on reassembly. It is important to install this down onto its locating lugs, not pushing from the rear of the machine towards the front. There is a small ‘u’ shaped cutout on bottom of the assembly and a metal tab which must locate into the corresponding ‘u’ shaped lug and slot cut into the metal of the top case. If this is not located correctly there is a good chance that the screen will foul when opening and closing resulting in an audible click as it catches the antenna assembly.

    BrianS - Responder

    +1 for BrianS comment. The U shape is a placeholder for the antenna and is located at antenna center. If this ever happened to you, fold gently the antenna strip to leave 3 mm space from the antenna main block, and place the antenna center first in oder for the antenna to fit into the U shape properly.

    Xavier Fischer -

    +1 to both BrianS and Xavier Fischer’s comments above. Even when the lug and the cutout are identified, it’s not easy to tell if it’s been seated correctly until you test the hinge. I found Xavier’s suggestion worked.

    Stuart Mc -

    Putting the three antenna cables to snap onto the connectors again, It felt like I succeeded after much struggle. But after putting it all together - the screen is black. External monitor works though. 2 of 3 feels certain though as it seems on place.

    Martin Klasson - Responder

    Once all 16 antenna screws are removed along with single screw securing wifi simply loosen the antenna and while holding each end , ROTATE it and pull away gently so as to not disturb the bend of the wifi wires passing thru the heat pipe. The wires are never physically touched and they keep their “natural” bend. To reassemble, holding antenna, guide the two wi-fi wires and the securing lug thru heat pipe as the antenna is rotated into place . There is a very narrow milled slot on the underside that the antennas metal shield must fit into or else it will cause the snapping clicking noise ( spoken of earlier in this guide )as the display assembly hangs up during its opening / closing. Make sure if need be, the spacing between the metal shield and plastic body of antenna is the same as the ridge between the milled slot and the milled out area moving towards rear of palm rest. Alignment is important.

    robert - Responder

  26. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Unscrew the display cable assembly: step 27, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the four 3.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two display cable cover springs.

    Step 27. These are T4 Torx screws, not T3 Torx. FYI

    scott - Responder

  27. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Remove the display cable assembly: step 28, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Remove the display cable assembly: step 28, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Remove the display cable assembly: step 28, image 3 of 3
    • Grab the left side of the display cable assembly and pull it towards the bottom end of the MacBook and away from the cover spring.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the cover spring of the display cable out of its recess.

    • Repeat this step with the right cover spring of the display cable assembly.

  28. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Unscrew the hinge bolts: step 29, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Unscrew the hinge bolts: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

    • While steadying the MacBook pro with your free hand, remove the three T8 Torx screws from the lower display hinge.

    • Remove the remaining three T8 Torx screws from the upper display bracket.

    Should it not be saying: “Remove the remaining three T8 Torx screw from the upper display hinge.” rather than the lower display bracket..? It seems to me that the last instruction in this step does not correspond to the pictures on the left.

    Thomas Keulemans - Responder

    Thanks Thomas, it has been corrected.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    t7 is better, using t8 started to round my screws making it harder to remove

    David - Responder

    Loosen the screws while the MB is still flat on the table. They were tight.

    rezbuzzz - Responder

    This was pointed out by Paul Stanislawski of Rossmann repair in this video https://youtu.be/iXjg1LtlQUU. It’s very easy to damage the touch bar flex connector while removing the left hand LCD hinge bolts in step 29. Best to disconnect the flex from the logic board and exercise extreme caution when removing the LCD. See potential touch bar flex damage here https://imgur.com/a/ugAL94c

    Peter Newman - Responder

    In my experience, better positioning would be to open the MacBook, flip it upside down to lay the keyboard on the table with the display hanging over the edge of your workbench in front of you, vertically. You can apply force to loosen the screws without risk of damage or dropping the unit. The display hinge brackets “hook” onto the base, so there is no risk of the display falling. You simply lift up on the display assembly, and away from the base (toward you).

    Ron - Responder

  29. MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Remove the display assembly: step 30, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Remove the display assembly: step 30, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Remove the display assembly: step 30, image 3 of 3
    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinge brackets can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

    • Remove the display/screen assembly, being careful not to snag it on any cables.

    Would be nice to include a photo of the removed display, showing the connectors. Good Job!

    Carl Schultz - Responder

Conclusão

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting or search our Answers community for help.

65 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

27 comentários

What is the ribbon cable that you must remove before disconnecting the battery do?

Max4r - Responder

your mom.

all joking aside, its the communication between the logic board and the battery controller (cycle count, battery health etc)

Joe Jankins -

What is the exact P2 bit you need to remove the 12 screws holding the antenna bar? I ordered a P2 bit on Amazon that says it’s 0.8mm P2 bit and it’s too big. Not sure if they shipped me the wrong one or what. Been trying to find out exactly what bit to use and no luck so far.

Tyson Roehrkasse - Responder

Pentalobe P1L from Wiha tools fits perfectly.

Robin Ray -

What about the display ribbon cable ?

I have a bad cable and don’t want to spend 400 on display assy when the cable is available on this site for 25

Robin Bonathan - Responder

I will be doing this in couple of days.

I have screen and the tools.

Robin Bonathan - Responder

Many thanks to everyone who put this guide together

G Gudeuk - Responder

I need to replace the battery board data cable and cannot find it. Any suggestions?

thank you

faithey

faith schaafsma - Responder

Does anyone know if the iFixit screens for the 2017 model have a longer backlight cable to combat the flexgate issue? or is it just the same as the original.

Connor - Responder

Fantastic guide! Only difference on my MB Pro was that all the T5’s were T4’s. Satisfied knowing Apple didn’t get me for this repair! HaHa!

MÆTHEIS SOL - Responder

Is this guide valid for the 2019 model as well?

manuel.martella - Responder

Followed this to the letter, and now my MacBook won’t power up, charge or anything. I’m devastated - and it was just the screen that was not working before.

Any advice other than the usual resets, etc? I don’t want to think that I wrecked the Logic Board…

Richard Belson - Responder

I had the exact same thing happen and now I dont know what to do.

What happened in your case? was the board totally fried?

Anthony Gasbarro -

When reassembling the screen (hinge), it is better to temporarily tape the ribbon cable to the back of the screen; ensuring the cable and the screen circuit board not to mistakenly be positioned on top of the keyboard or accidentaly fold/squeeze the ribbon cable by the hinge.

I almost ripped the ribbon cable with the middle hinge when trying to put the screen hinge back into its place.

Aryo Pinandito - Responder

Is this also Working for the MacBook Pro 2017 with Touch Bar. In Title there is it called Touchbar but its in Category from Mac Book Pro 2017 FunctionKeys ?

Marco - Responder

I did it but didn’t do the auto boot and now it won’t turn on any idea on how I could fix this

azza_wikid_tunez - Responder

So I replaced my screen. Works perfectly, but my touch bar is not working anymore! It shows everything, but I cannot touch operate it anymore. I guess I didn't damage anything. It's strange… where is the cable connected, so I can check if anything is wrong?

Maarten Leemans - Responder

I have the same issue, and I can’t manually adjust screen brightness anymore.

Waleed Nazhan -

same issue, The brightness setting is no available anymore and the touch function of the TouchBar too.

SAVARY Sebastien -

why does the display replacement for the non touch bar model link to the touch bar one when they are different internally?

kegancforbes - Responder

These steps worked well and I have successfully replaced my screen! My a1706 Touch Bar has one issue - the screen brightness can’t be adjusted any more. Anyone be got any tips? I can’t do it via the display menu either.

Vikram Jain - Responder

Amazing, really appreciate it, you helped me doing a successful installation.

Ghannam Adham - Responder

Thank you for the procedure it’s really clear ! After the replacement, i lost two functions : the setting of the brightness and the touch function of the TouchBar ( it works but there is not action when i touch the TouchBar…even after SMC and NVRAM intialization …). An idea about how to fix this issue ?

SAVARY Sebastien - Responder

Super Tutoriel. Attention faire des photos du MacBook Pro 13 pouce. Car les tapes pour débrancher l’alimentation et l’antenne ne sont pas pareilles.

Florian Bonanno - Responder

The instructions worked to perfection. However, when rebooting to go back to terminal and turn autoboot back on I cannot open any applications at all and the computer is sluggish. So that said I cannot open terminal. What could be the issue?

Jeff Craigmyle - Responder

One thing that I think may be issue for apps not opening is I may possibly have damaged the battery board data cable connector as I completely missed the part about it having a release clip. I have ordered a new one hoping that fixes the issue. If anyone has any other ideas please reply.

Jeff Craigmyle -

The tiny screws on 18 are garbage. I was able to get 1 screw out and the others sorta stripped really easily. Now I have to figure out how to get them off.

QuickTech - Responder

Adicione um comentário

Exibir estatísticas:

Últimas 24 horas: 143

Últimos 7 dias: 751

Últimos 30 dias: 3,270

Duração total: 125,399