Ir para o conteúdo principal

Introdução

Follow these instructions to replace the glued-in battery in your MacBook Pro using an iFixit kit with adhesive remover. The adhesive remover helps weaken the glue securing the old battery, making it easier to remove.

iFixit adhesive remover is flammable. Follow this procedure in a well-ventilated area, and don’t smoke or work near an open flame.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. If a charged lithium-ion battery is accidentally punctured, a dangerous and uncontrollable fire may result. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics. Follow all instructions and take care where you apply the adhesive remover.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Responder

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Responder

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Responder

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Responder

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Responder

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Responder

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Responder

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Responder

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Responder

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Responder

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Responder

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Responder

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Responder

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Responder

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Responder

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - Responder

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - Responder

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - Responder

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - Responder

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 6.2 mm screws

    • Four 3.4 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas

    Olivier Cecillon - Responder

    Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !

    c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .

    l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon

    Vincent Morault - Responder

    Bonjour Vincent,

    Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Claire Miesch -

    Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS

    Gilles Vigeral - Responder

    Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….

    Gilles Vigeral - Responder

  2. Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro. Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.
    • Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.

    • Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.

  3. Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

    The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.

    dkraemer2 - Responder

  4. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

  5. Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes. Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis. Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.
    • Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.

    • Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.

    • Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

    Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.

    Troy Reimche - Responder

  6. Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. Pull first at one corner, then the other. Pull to the side—not up.
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This can require a lot of force.

    On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.

    Cool_Breeze - Responder

  7. Remove the lower case. To reinstall the lower case: Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

  8. Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery. Remove the tape.
    • Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • Remove the tape.

    Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.

    Emmanuel Neff - Responder

  9. Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector. The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.
    • Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

    While the tape in this step was definitely attached to the ribbon cable, I accidentally pulled it off during Step 9, thinking that it was a tab to remove the larger tape covering the whole battery connector. It didn’t seem to do any harm.

    cdowney - Responder

  10. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

    Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?

    Jamie Near - Responder

    Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.

    Wayne Linder - Responder

    The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.

    William Brittain - Responder

  11. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket. Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

  12. Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way. Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.
    • Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.

    The cable is held down with adhesive. Be very gentle with the delicate cable as you peel it back.

    dkraemer2 - Responder

  13. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

  14. Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.

    SchroedersKater - Responder

    (Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.

    S Woo -

  15. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.

    You should use T4 here as T3 will strip your screw head

    Ivan Sorkin - Responder

    For me a T4 does NOT work - I needed a T3 Torx screwdriver.

    ian jeffreys - Responder

  16. Remove the trackpad cable connector bracket with a pair of tweezers.
    • Remove the trackpad cable connector bracket with a pair of tweezers.

  17. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

    If you are removing the logic board, you can skip the rest of the trackpad removal steps. Just fold the cable back out of the way and the track pad can stay in place.

    Troy Reimche - Responder

  18. Prepare an iOpener and lay it on top of the trackpad ribbon cable for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the trackpad ribbon cable to the top of the battery.
    • Prepare an iOpener and lay it on top of the trackpad ribbon cable for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the trackpad ribbon cable to the top of the battery.

    • If you don't have an iOpener, use a hair dryer to warm up the cable instead. The cable should be warm, but not too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the battery.

  19. Carefully peel the trackpad ribbon cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way. Do not fold or tear the cable. Do not fold or tear the cable.
    • Carefully peel the trackpad ribbon cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.

    • Do not fold or tear the cable.

    If you are changing the batter you don’t need to remove the logic board and you can jump to step 64. It can say you a lot of time. But there is one trick you need to do. It can be tricky getting the cable under the logic board but I ended up breaking the plastic “wall” that holds the centre battery and you can slide the cable in and just glue back the wall.

    ian jeffreys - Responder

    I believe at this point you skip to Step 77 if you are not using adhesive remover and not removing the logic board. Ian Jeffreys picture of the plastic "wall" is very useful.. (see comments at the end, he has the JPG posted there.)

    William Tzouris - Responder

  20. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad assembly: Two 4.3 mm screws
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad assembly:

    • Two 4.3 mm screws

    • Eight 5.8 mm screws

  21. Swing the display open slightly to access the trackpad. Carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out through the hole in the MacBook Pro's frame.
    • Swing the display open slightly to access the trackpad.

    • Carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out through the hole in the MacBook Pro's frame.

  22. Remove the trackpad assembly. Be sure not to lose the six small washers (two circular and four rectangular) resting on the underside of the trackpad. Be sure not to lose the six small washers (two circular and four rectangular) resting on the underside of the trackpad.
    • Remove the trackpad assembly.

    • Be sure not to lose the six small washers (two circular and four rectangular) resting on the underside of the trackpad.

    This is all you have to do. Slip the battery into your machine where the old one was, run the ribbon cables from the center battery under the motherboard, run the battery data connector to its very sensitive connection to the motherboard, screw in two other screws to hold the battery “chip” in place, screw in the pancake screw and you’re good. There’s no need to remove the motherboard for this installation.

    Sean C McKean - Responder

    Why need to Remove the trackpad assembly? For what?

    Oleg Kolmak - Responder

    I wish I had read what others said here and watched other videos on youtube. This guide is a disaster. You will end up destroying your logic board. Why this idiot did it this way I can’t under stand. Thanks for nothing you &&^&. I’m having to replace my entire logic board. I could just as easily slipped the old battery cable out from under the logic board. Grrrrrrr. Your guide is $@$* and was so difficult to put everything back together. My fan runs continuously at full speed.

    Christian - Responder

    I have to agree I’m using the floss method and not removing the motherboard I did this with a 2012 and a 2013 retina MacBook Pro when changing batteries and those computers are still going strong

    William Tzouris - Responder

  23. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the keyboard connector bracket. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the keyboard connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the keyboard connector bracket.

  24. Remove the keyboard connector bracket.
    • Remove the keyboard connector bracket.

  25. Use a spudger to disconnect the keyboard connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the keyboard connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the keyboard connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    Look at the comment section before you proceed. It is possible to finish the process without unplugging the board or other components. Be aware these are user’s comments and not the official guide.

    Good Luck!

    Ed Oliver - Responder

  26. Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable.

    • Remove the cover.

  27. Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector.

    • Remove the cover.

  28. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.
    • Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

  29. Using a T3 Torx driver: Remove two 1.4 mm screws from the Thunderbolt port connector bracket on the left.
    • Using a T3 Torx driver:

    • Remove two 1.4 mm screws from the Thunderbolt port connector bracket on the left.

    • Remove two more 1.4 mm screws from the Thunderbolt port connector bracket on the right.

    If you are trying to replace the Thunderbolt port boards, you have to finish removing the entire logic board in order to get to the 2 screws holding each board in place. You can leave the battery and track pad in place though.

    Apple used poor quality boards for the thunderbolt boards so they will definitely wear out over time. Make sure you replace them with metal boards and your USB C cable will click in nice and tight for a really long time.

    Troy Reimche - Responder

  30. Use a spudger to disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt port connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan. Gently push the connector aside so it won't interfere with logic board removal.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt port connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan.

    • Gently push the connector aside so it won't interfere with logic board removal.

  31. Repeat for the right-side Thunderbolt port connector, prying it up from the inside edge and pushing it carefully aside. Repeat for the right-side Thunderbolt port connector, prying it up from the inside edge and pushing it carefully aside. Repeat for the right-side Thunderbolt port connector, prying it up from the inside edge and pushing it carefully aside.
    • Repeat for the right-side Thunderbolt port connector, prying it up from the inside edge and pushing it carefully aside.

  32. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the cover bracket securing the Touch ID and 3.5 mm audio jack connectors. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the cover bracket securing the Touch ID and 3.5 mm audio jack connectors.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the cover bracket securing the Touch ID and 3.5 mm audio jack connectors.

  33. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  34. Use a spudger to disconnect the 3.5 mm audio jack flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board. Gently push the flex cable aside. Gently push the flex cable aside.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the 3.5 mm audio jack flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • Gently push the flex cable aside.

  35. Disconnect the Touch ID and power button flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the Touch ID and power button flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the Touch ID and power button flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  36. Apply mild heat using an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the power button/Touch ID flex cable. Apply mild heat using an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the power button/Touch ID flex cable.
    • Apply mild heat using an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the power button/Touch ID flex cable.

  37. Carefully slide an opening pick under the flex cable to separate it from the logic board, and push it carefully aside. Be very careful not to damage this delicate flex cable. The attached Touch ID sensor is uniquely paired to your MacBook's logic board—if damaged, only Apple can successfully replace it. If you have trouble, don't force it—apply a little more heat and try again.
    • Carefully slide an opening pick under the flex cable to separate it from the logic board, and push it carefully aside.

    • Be very careful not to damage this delicate flex cable. The attached Touch ID sensor is uniquely paired to your MacBook's logic board—if damaged, only Apple can successfully replace it.

    • If you have trouble, don't force it—apply a little more heat and try again.

    First let me thank you for this AMAZING guide which helped me a lot to achieve an almost successful battery replacement… I’m saying “almost” because, as you write in red letters, I wasn’t careful enough and my Touch ID cable got damaged.

    Do you have any idea on how much should such a repair cost?

    I know that only apple stores or authorized service providers can perform such a repair…

    Thanks again!

    omriitlab - Responder

    Boy that’s a tough one :( It’s among the most problematic of all components to replace, because the fingerprint sensor is cryptographically paired to the logic board. The best option might be to get in touch with a skilled microsolderer and ask if they can take a look at the cable and try to repair the traces. Apart from that, the only options I’m aware of would be to pay Apple whatever they demand for a repair (no idea, but most likely a lot), or replace both the sensor and the entire logic board with another set that is already paired and undamaged. Wish I could be more help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Difficult though it may be, as a retired fixer, and amazed at the new tiny tiny parts, I am even more amazed at this new cooperative culture of fixers. The depth of helpful detail is amazing. The new environment of cheap special tools, and amazingly detailed hires pics is a powerful new repair meme. I used i-fixit for my first MBAir, but haven’t the skills for this, my current mac. But this addition, the carefully inserted comments of users, and the skills and cooperative attitude of you all, is quite amazing. And I watch and admire. Well done, you.

    jock mctavish - Responder

    This cable has a metal plate that is PART OF THE CABLE. It is initially invisible, and can easily be mistaken for part of the logic board upon which it is adhered. As you begin to try to peel it up, make certain that your tool is also making its way beneath that integral thin metal plate. There are chip components that will delaminate from the cable if you attempt to lift it, or if your prying tool happens to not make it under the plate.

    Tim Elverston - Responder

  38. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.9 mm screw from the Touch Bar digitizer connector bracket. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.9 mm screw from the Touch Bar digitizer connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.9 mm screw from the Touch Bar digitizer connector bracket.

    This was a T4 on mine

    Jeremy Espino - Responder

  39. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  40. Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

  41. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove two 1.9 mm screws from the Touch Bar display connector bracket. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove two 1.9 mm screws from the Touch Bar display connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove two 1.9 mm screws from the Touch Bar display connector bracket.

  42. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  43. Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar display connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar display connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar display connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  44. Peel back any tape covering the microphone connector socket. Peel back any tape covering the microphone connector socket.
    • Peel back any tape covering the microphone connector socket.

  45. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  46. Disconnect the microphone cable by pulling it back—away from the fan—until it slides out of its socket. If possible, pull on the attached tape, rather than on the cable itself.
    • Disconnect the microphone cable by pulling it back—away from the fan—until it slides out of its socket.

    • If possible, pull on the attached tape, rather than on the cable itself.

  47. Peel back any tape covering the connector for the left-side tweeter. Peel back any tape covering the connector for the left-side tweeter.
    • Peel back any tape covering the connector for the left-side tweeter.

  48. Flip open the locking flap for the left-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Flip open the locking flap for the left-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Flip open the locking flap for the left-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  49. Disconnect the cable by pulling it towards the tweeter until it slides out of its socket. If possible, pull on the attached tape rather than the cable itself.
    • Disconnect the cable by pulling it towards the tweeter until it slides out of its socket.

    • If possible, pull on the attached tape rather than the cable itself.

  50. Underneath the tweeter's flex cable lies a second ZIF connector, for the left main speaker. Peel back any tape covering the socket for the left main speaker.
    • Underneath the tweeter's flex cable lies a second ZIF connector, for the left main speaker.

    • Peel back any tape covering the socket for the left main speaker.

  51. Flip open the locking flap for the left main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Flip open the locking flap for the left main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Flip open the locking flap for the left main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  52. Disconnect the left main speaker cable by pulling it toward the tweeter until it slides free from its socket. Remember to pull on the attached tape, not the cable.
    • Disconnect the left main speaker cable by pulling it toward the tweeter until it slides free from its socket.

    • Remember to pull on the attached tape, not the cable.

  53. Repeat the previous six steps to disconnect the opposite tweeter and main speaker, on the right. Begin by peeling back any tape covering the tweeter connector.
    • Repeat the previous six steps to disconnect the opposite tweeter and main speaker, on the right.

    • Begin by peeling back any tape covering the tweeter connector.

  54. Flip open the locking flap for the right-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Flip open the locking flap for the right-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Flip open the locking flap for the right-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  55. Disconnect the cable by pulling it towards the tweeter until it slides out of its socket. Remember to pull on the tape if possible—not the actual cable.
    • Disconnect the cable by pulling it towards the tweeter until it slides out of its socket.

    • Remember to pull on the tape if possible—not the actual cable.

  56. Peel back any tape covering the connector for the right-side main speaker. Peel back any tape covering the connector for the right-side main speaker.
    • Peel back any tape covering the connector for the right-side main speaker.

  57. Flip open the locking flap for the right-side main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Flip open the locking flap for the right-side main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Flip open the locking flap for the right-side main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  58. Pull the right-side main speaker cable toward the tweeter until it slides free from its socket.
    • Pull the right-side main speaker cable toward the tweeter until it slides free from its socket.

  59. Disconnect the first antenna cable by prying it straight up from its socket. Carefully slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath the cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it. Carefully slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath the cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.
    • Disconnect the first antenna cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

    • Carefully slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath the cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

  60. Repeat the previous step to disconnect the two remaining antenna cables.
    • Repeat the previous step to disconnect the two remaining antenna cables.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down to snap it into place.

  61. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

  62. Remove all ten screws securing the logic board assembly: Three 2.5 mm Torx T3 screws
    • Remove all ten screws securing the logic board assembly:

    • Three 2.5 mm Torx T3 screws

    • Five 2.9 mm Torx T5 screws

    • Two 3.0 mm Torx T5 screws

    • During reassembly, install these screws loosely and adjust the logic board's position if necessary before tightening the screws.

  63. Peel up (but don't remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans. If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate. If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.
    • Peel up (but don't remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans.

    • If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.

    Mine had no adhesive on them at all. You only need to make sure they are loosened from the fan shroud. They come out with the logic board assembly.

    Troy Reimche - Responder

  64. The logic board assembly is a tight fit, but you can make it easier to remove by inserting a spudger under the left edge and levering it up slightly. There should be no resistance as you remove the logic board. Check all cables carefully and hold them out of the way if needed so they don't snag on the board.
    • The logic board assembly is a tight fit, but you can make it easier to remove by inserting a spudger under the left edge and levering it up slightly.

    • There should be no resistance as you remove the logic board. Check all cables carefully and hold them out of the way if needed so they don't snag on the board.

    • Lift from the left side to remove the logic board assembly.

    Wichtig !!

    Vorher den Display Anschluß (hinten mitte) Abschrauben und lösen.

    2x bleche mit jeweils 2 Scxhrauben

    Martin Klinzmann - Responder

    Ist nachgetragen. Danke!

    Fabian Neidhardt - Responder

    What just happened… While I was removing the logic board one of the small black boxes from the bottom right just fell off. I am not sure but I think it is a capacitor - it says KO 336 16K 723. It just fell, I did not even touch this part… Maybe it was broken when I opened up the case in the beginning, but I did not notice it then.

    Did I just break my laptop?

    Nikita Jesaibegjans - Responder

  65. When reinstalling the logic board assembly: Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed. Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.
    • When reinstalling the logic board assembly:

    • Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed.

    • Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.

    • Verify that no cables get trapped under the board as you install it. Check each marked location carefully.

  66. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.2 mm screws from the battery board. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.2 mm screws from the battery board.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.2 mm screws from the battery board.

    Terrible time to lose screws, but that is exactly what ended up happening to me. I lost the battery board screws and ended up crazy glueing down.

    Santiago Avila - Responder

    This is where you can easily see it was not necessary to remove the logic board. Could have slipped the battery cable right out from under the corners if you are careful. My fan runs all the time now. This guys procedure is absolute dog s$%t

    Christian - Responder

  67. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can cause damage if it contacts the MacBook Pro's display or keyboard. To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work. Additionally, use some tape and/or foil to seal off the area under the trackpad. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can cause damage if it contacts the MacBook Pro's display or keyboard.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    • Additionally, use some tape and/or foil to seal off the area under the trackpad. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.

  68. Before removing the battery, it's important to protect the speakers on either side. The speakers are glued down just like the battery—so if the liquid adhesive remover gets under the speakers, they may come loose and rattle after your repair.
    • Before removing the battery, it's important to protect the speakers on either side. The speakers are glued down just like the battery—so if the liquid adhesive remover gets under the speakers, they may come loose and rattle after your repair.

    • Cut a length of packing tape or painter's tape, and slide one edge between the battery and the speaker on the left side.

    I didn’t have packing tape or painter’s tape so I tried to use some of the packing materials, but that was a bad idea. What ended up working for me was to elevate one side and used the plastic card to to direct the acetone away from the speaker. Worked a-ok.

    Santiago Avila - Responder

  69. Press all along the edge of the tape with your spudger to stick it securely to the MacBook Pro's aluminum case, sealing off the speaker from the battery. Be careful not to poke or puncture the battery. Fold the tape over and lightly adhere it to the speaker to keep it out of the way.
    • Press all along the edge of the tape with your spudger to stick it securely to the MacBook Pro's aluminum case, sealing off the speaker from the battery.

    • Be careful not to poke or puncture the battery.

    • Fold the tape over and lightly adhere it to the speaker to keep it out of the way.

    • The foam bumpers on top of the speaker may tear when peeling the tape off. Don't press the tape directly onto the bumpers.

  70. Repeat the previous two steps on the opposite side in order to seal off the other speaker from the battery.
    • Repeat the previous two steps on the opposite side in order to seal off the other speaker from the battery.

    Note that no matter how well you tape off the speakers and elevate the sides of the laptop, there is not a lot of space between the battery and the speaker, and adhesive remover WILL wick under the speakers. Yay for capillary action, I guess? . . ..

    Wayne Linder - Responder

  71. To control the flow of adhesive remover and direct it away from the speaker, raise the right edge  of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block. To control the flow of adhesive remover and direct it away from the speaker, raise the right edge  of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block. To control the flow of adhesive remover and direct it away from the speaker, raise the right edge  of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.
    • To control the flow of adhesive remover and direct it away from the speaker, raise the right edge of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.

  72. Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  73. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

  74. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the far right battery cell. You don't need to use very much—the small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells. Wait about two minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the far right battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much—the small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait about two minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.

  75. After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the far right battery cell, starting from the front edge. This shouldn't require much force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate. Try not to deform the battery. A damaged battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
    • After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the far right battery cell, starting from the front edge.

    • This shouldn't require much force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate.

    • Try not to deform the battery. A damaged battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

    • Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way under the battery cell.

    • Lift to fully separate the adhesive, but don't try to remove the battery cell yet.

    • Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cell to prevent it from re-adhering while you continue.

    The plastic card method will work. It just takes a lot of force.

    Wayne Linder - Responder

  76. If you have difficulty getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell. Pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.
    • If you have difficulty getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell. Pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.

    • Wear thick gloves or wrap the floss around a couple of driver handles so as not to hurt your fingers.

    Bei der Entfernung der Akkus mit Zahnseide oder Maurerschnur jeden Akku seperat lösen.

    Wie im Bild gezeigt von hinten einfädeln und dann zwischen den beiden Akkus nach vorne lösen.

    Dabei die Zahnseide wie eine Säge nach rechts und Links bewegen.

    Bei den kleineren Akkus sind die Klebestreifen von hinten nach vorne. Somit ist das auch die Richtung wie man sie einfach lösen kann.

    Der Mittlere Akku ist von links nach rechts verklebt. Somit sollte man dort die Richtung ändern.

    Martin Klinzmann - Responder

    Danke für die Erläuterungen!

    Fabian Neidhardt -

  77. Repeat the last few steps to separate the far left battery cell. Begin by elevating the left side of the MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the speaker.
    • Repeat the last few steps to separate the far left battery cell.

    • Begin by elevating the left side of the MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the speaker.

  78. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under the far left battery cell, and wait about two minutes for it to penetrate. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under the far left battery cell, and wait about two minutes for it to penetrate. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under the far left battery cell, and wait about two minutes for it to penetrate.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under the far left battery cell, and wait about two minutes for it to penetrate.

  79. Slide one corner of a plastic card underneath the far left battery cell, and carefully separate the adhesive holding it in place. Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cell to prevent it from re-adhering while you continue.
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card underneath the far left battery cell, and carefully separate the adhesive holding it in place.

    • Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cell to prevent it from re-adhering while you continue.

  80. Next, raise the back edge of your MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the keyboard/logic board area. Next, raise the back edge of your MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the keyboard/logic board area.
    • Next, raise the back edge of your MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the keyboard/logic board area.

  81. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under each of the remaining three battery cells. There are openings in the aluminum case underneath these cells, so some of the adhesive remover may leak out instead of penetrating underneath the battery. Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover in the following steps if needed.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under each of the remaining three battery cells.

    • There are openings in the aluminum case underneath these cells, so some of the adhesive remover may leak out instead of penetrating underneath the battery.

    • Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover in the following steps if needed.

    • Wait about two minutes before you continue.

  82. The remaining two smaller battery cells each sit on a slightly raised portion of the MacBook's aluminum frame. Slide a plastic card all the way underneath the far left battery cell—which you already separated in the previous steps—and then insert it carefully between the remaining left-side battery cell and the MacBook Pro's aluminum case. Slide a plastic card all the way underneath the far left battery cell—which you already separated in the previous steps—and then insert it carefully between the remaining left-side battery cell and the MacBook Pro's aluminum case.
    • The remaining two smaller battery cells each sit on a slightly raised portion of the MacBook's aluminum frame.

    • Slide a plastic card all the way underneath the far left battery cell—which you already separated in the previous steps—and then insert it carefully between the remaining left-side battery cell and the MacBook Pro's aluminum case.

  83. Use your plastic card to fully separate the remaining battery cell on the left side. Leave your plastic card in place temporarily to prevent the left-side battery cells from re-adhering.
    • Use your plastic card to fully separate the remaining battery cell on the left side.

    • Leave your plastic card in place temporarily to prevent the left-side battery cells from re-adhering.

  84. Repeat the previous two steps to separate the remaining battery cell on the right. Repeat the previous two steps to separate the remaining battery cell on the right. Repeat the previous two steps to separate the remaining battery cell on the right.
    • Repeat the previous two steps to separate the remaining battery cell on the right.

  85. The final battery cell can be more difficult to remove. If needed, apply more adhesive remover to make the job easier. Slide the corner of one of your plastic cards underneath the top edge of the large center battery cell. Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell to fully separate the adhesive holding it in place.
    • The final battery cell can be more difficult to remove. If needed, apply more adhesive remover to make the job easier.

    • Slide the corner of one of your plastic cards underneath the top edge of the large center battery cell.

    • Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell to fully separate the adhesive holding it in place.