Dificuldade
Moderado
Passos
88
Tempo necessário
1 - 3 horas
- Disable Auto Boot 1 passo
- Lower Case 7 passos
- Battery Connector 7 passos
- Trackpad 8 passos
- Logic Board Assembly 43 passos
- Battery 22 passos
Guia em destaque
Este guia foi considerado super bacana pela equipe da iFixit.
Introdução
Follow these instructions to replace the glued-in battery in your MacBook Pro using an iFixit kit with adhesive remover. The adhesive remover helps weaken the glue securing the old battery, making it easier to remove.
iFixit adhesive remover is flammable. Follow this procedure in a well-ventilated area, and don’t smoke or work near an open flame.
To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. If a charged lithium-ion battery is accidentally punctured, a dangerous and uncontrollable fire may result. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.
Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics. Follow all instructions and take care where you apply the adhesive remover.
Ferramentas
- Suction Handle
- iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)
- P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
- T3 Torx Screwdriver
- Spudger
- T5 Torx Screwdriver
- Tweezers
- ESD Safe Tweezers Blunt Nose
- iOpener
- Plastic Cards
- iFixit Adhesive Remover (for Battery, Screen, and Glass Adhesive)
- Painter's Tape
- Safety Glasses
- Nitrile Gloves 100 Box
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Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
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Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:
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Two 6.2 mm screws
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Four 3.4 mm screws
Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas
Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !
c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .
l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon
Bonjour Vincent,
Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS
Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….
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Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.
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Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.
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Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.
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Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.
The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.
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Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.
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Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.
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Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.
Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.
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Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
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Pull first at one corner, then the other.
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
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Remove the lower case.
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Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
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When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
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Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
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Remove the tape.
Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.
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Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.
Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?
Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.
The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.
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Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
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Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.
(Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.
S Woo -
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.
You should use T4 here as T3 will strip your screw head
For me a T4 does NOT work - I needed a T3 Torx screwdriver.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
If you are removing the logic board, you can skip the rest of the trackpad removal steps. Just fold the cable back out of the way and the track pad can stay in place.
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Prepare an iOpener and lay it on top of the trackpad ribbon cable for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the trackpad ribbon cable to the top of the battery.
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If you don't have an iOpener, use a hair dryer to warm up the cable instead. The cable should be warm, but not too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the battery.
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Carefully peel the trackpad ribbon cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.
If you are changing the batter you don’t need to remove the logic board and you can jump to step 64. It can say you a lot of time. But there is one trick you need to do. It can be tricky getting the cable under the logic board but I ended up breaking the plastic “wall” that holds the centre battery and you can slide the cable in and just glue back the wall.
I believe at this point you skip to Step 77 if you are not using adhesive remover and not removing the logic board. Ian Jeffreys picture of the plastic "wall" is very useful.. (see comments at the end, he has the JPG posted there.)
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad assembly:
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Two 4.3 mm screws
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Eight 5.8 mm screws
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Remove the trackpad assembly.
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Be sure not to lose the six small washers (two circular and four rectangular) resting on the underside of the trackpad.
This is all you have to do. Slip the battery into your machine where the old one was, run the ribbon cables from the center battery under the motherboard, run the battery data connector to its very sensitive connection to the motherboard, screw in two other screws to hold the battery “chip” in place, screw in the pancake screw and you’re good. There’s no need to remove the motherboard for this installation.
Why need to Remove the trackpad assembly? For what?
I wish I had read what others said here and watched other videos on youtube. This guide is a disaster. You will end up destroying your logic board. Why this idiot did it this way I can’t under stand. Thanks for nothing you &&^&. I’m having to replace my entire logic board. I could just as easily slipped the old battery cable out from under the logic board. Grrrrrrr. Your guide is $@$* and was so difficult to put everything back together. My fan runs continuously at full speed.
I have to agree I’m using the floss method and not removing the motherboard I did this with a 2012 and a 2013 retina MacBook Pro when changing batteries and those computers are still going strong
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the keyboard connector bracket.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the keyboard connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable.
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Remove the cover.
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Using a T3 Torx driver:
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Remove two 1.4 mm screws from the Thunderbolt port connector bracket on the left.
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Remove two more 1.4 mm screws from the Thunderbolt port connector bracket on the right.
If you are trying to replace the Thunderbolt port boards, you have to finish removing the entire logic board in order to get to the 2 screws holding each board in place. You can leave the battery and track pad in place though.
Apple used poor quality boards for the thunderbolt boards so they will definitely wear out over time. Make sure you replace them with metal boards and your USB C cable will click in nice and tight for a really long time.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt port connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Gently push the connector aside so it won't interfere with logic board removal.
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Repeat for the right-side Thunderbolt port connector, prying it up from the inside edge and pushing it carefully aside.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the cover bracket securing the Touch ID and 3.5 mm audio jack connectors.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the 3.5 mm audio jack flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Gently push the flex cable aside.
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Disconnect the Touch ID and power button flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Apply mild heat using an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the power button/Touch ID flex cable.
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Carefully slide an opening pick under the flex cable to separate it from the logic board, and push it carefully aside.
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If you have trouble, don't force it—apply a little more heat and try again.
First let me thank you for this AMAZING guide which helped me a lot to achieve an almost successful battery replacement… I’m saying “almost” because, as you write in red letters, I wasn’t careful enough and my Touch ID cable got damaged.
Do you have any idea on how much should such a repair cost?
I know that only apple stores or authorized service providers can perform such a repair…
Thanks again!
Boy that’s a tough one :( It’s among the most problematic of all components to replace, because the fingerprint sensor is cryptographically paired to the logic board. The best option might be to get in touch with a skilled microsolderer and ask if they can take a look at the cable and try to repair the traces. Apart from that, the only options I’m aware of would be to pay Apple whatever they demand for a repair (no idea, but most likely a lot), or replace both the sensor and the entire logic board with another set that is already paired and undamaged. Wish I could be more help. Good luck!
Difficult though it may be, as a retired fixer, and amazed at the new tiny tiny parts, I am even more amazed at this new cooperative culture of fixers. The depth of helpful detail is amazing. The new environment of cheap special tools, and amazingly detailed hires pics is a powerful new repair meme. I used i-fixit for my first MBAir, but haven’t the skills for this, my current mac. But this addition, the carefully inserted comments of users, and the skills and cooperative attitude of you all, is quite amazing. And I watch and admire. Well done, you.
This cable has a metal plate that is PART OF THE CABLE. It is initially invisible, and can easily be mistaken for part of the logic board upon which it is adhered. As you begin to try to peel it up, make certain that your tool is also making its way beneath that integral thin metal plate. There are chip components that will delaminate from the cable if you attempt to lift it, or if your prying tool happens to not make it under the plate.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.9 mm screw from the Touch Bar digitizer connector bracket.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove two 1.9 mm screws from the Touch Bar display connector bracket.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar display connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Peel back any tape covering the microphone connector socket.
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Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Flip open the locking flap for the left-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Flip open the locking flap for the left main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Flip open the locking flap for the right-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Flip open the locking flap for the right-side main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Disconnect the first antenna cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
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Carefully slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath the cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.
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Remove all ten screws securing the logic board assembly:
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Three 2.5 mm Torx T3 screws
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Five 2.9 mm Torx T5 screws
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Two 3.0 mm Torx T5 screws
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Peel up (but don't remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans.
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If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.
Mine had no adhesive on them at all. You only need to make sure they are loosened from the fan shroud. They come out with the logic board assembly.
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Lift from the left side to remove the logic board assembly.
Wichtig !!
Vorher den Display Anschluß (hinten mitte) Abschrauben und lösen.
2x bleche mit jeweils 2 Scxhrauben
Ist nachgetragen. Danke!
What just happened… While I was removing the logic board one of the small black boxes from the bottom right just fell off. I am not sure but I think it is a capacitor - it says KO 336 16K 723. It just fell, I did not even touch this part… Maybe it was broken when I opened up the case in the beginning, but I did not notice it then.
Did I just break my laptop?
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Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed.
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Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.
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Verify that no cables get trapped under the board as you install it. Check each marked location carefully.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.2 mm screws from the battery board.
Terrible time to lose screws, but that is exactly what ended up happening to me. I lost the battery board screws and ended up crazy glueing down.
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To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.
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Additionally, use some tape and/or foil to seal off the area under the trackpad. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.
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Cut a length of packing tape or painter's tape, and slide one edge between the battery and the speaker on the left side.
I didn’t have packing tape or painter’s tape so I tried to use some of the packing materials, but that was a bad idea. What ended up working for me was to elevate one side and used the plastic card to to direct the acetone away from the speaker. Worked a-ok.
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Repeat the previous two steps on the opposite side in order to seal off the other speaker from the battery.
Note that no matter how well you tape off the speakers and elevate the sides of the laptop, there is not a lot of space between the battery and the speaker, and adhesive remover WILL wick under the speakers. Yay for capillary action, I guess? . . ..
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To control the flow of adhesive remover and direct it away from the speaker, raise the right edge of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.
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Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.
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Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
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Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
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Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.
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Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.
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Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.
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Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the far right battery cell.
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Wait about two minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.
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After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the far right battery cell, starting from the front edge.
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Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way under the battery cell.
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Lift to fully separate the adhesive, but don't try to remove the battery cell yet.
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Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cell to prevent it from re-adhering while you continue.
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If you have difficulty getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell. Pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.
Bei der Entfernung der Akkus mit Zahnseide oder Maurerschnur jeden Akku seperat lösen.
Wie im Bild gezeigt von hinten einfädeln und dann zwischen den beiden Akkus nach vorne lösen.
Dabei die Zahnseide wie eine Säge nach rechts und Links bewegen.
Bei den kleineren Akkus sind die Klebestreifen von hinten nach vorne. Somit ist das auch die Richtung wie man sie einfach lösen kann.
Der Mittlere Akku ist von links nach rechts verklebt. Somit sollte man dort die Richtung ändern.
Danke für die Erläuterungen!
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Repeat the last few steps to separate the far left battery cell.
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Begin by elevating the left side of the MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the speaker.
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under the far left battery cell, and wait about two minutes for it to penetrate.
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Slide one corner of a plastic card underneath the far left battery cell, and carefully separate the adhesive holding it in place.
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Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cell to prevent it from re-adhering while you continue.
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Next, raise the back edge of your MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the keyboard/logic board area.
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under each of the remaining three battery cells.
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Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover in the following steps if needed.
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Wait about two minutes before you continue.
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Slide a plastic card all the way underneath the far left battery cell—which you already separated in the previous steps—and then insert it carefully between the remaining left-side battery cell and the MacBook Pro's aluminum case.
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Repeat the previous two steps to separate the remaining battery cell on the right.
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Slide the corner of one of your plastic cards underneath the top edge of the large center battery cell.
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Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell to fully separate the adhesive holding it in place.
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Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
lamajr - Responder
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Responder
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Responder
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Responder
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Responder
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Responder
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Responder
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Responder
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Responder
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Responder
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Responder
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Responder
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Responder
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Responder
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Responder
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Responder
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Responder
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Responder
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Responder