Use this guide to upgrade or replace the solid-state drive in a MacBook Pro 13” Late 2013. This MacBook Pro uses a proprietary storage drive connector, and is therefore not compatible with common M.2 drives without the use of an adapter.
Before you perform this repair, if at all possible, back up your existing SSD. Then, either familiarize yourself with internet recovery or create a bootable external drive so you’ll be ready to install macOS onto your new drive and migrate your data to the new SSD.
Finally, we strongly recommend installing macOS 10.13 High Sierra (or a later macOS) before replacing the original SSD from your MacBook Pro. Most new SSDs require updated storage drivers not found in versions of macOS prior to High Sierra.
O que você precisa
Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.
To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily
If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!
I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.
If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.
A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.
I have done tons of these battery replacements.
You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.
Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…
as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.
I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …
I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?
Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.
When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.
I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!
Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!
The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.
You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.
After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.
Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?
Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.
The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long
You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.
Hi All ,
I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .
The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.
If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector
If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-
@sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...
UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!
Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
In case you need it, the underside of the SSD board will indicate the size of the drive, e.g., 128GB.
I have tried to unscrew this screw on 3 different laptops, and the T5 is not getting a good grasp. I didnt want to apply too much pressure in fear of stripping the screw. I have had success with side grabbing bits in the past, but even this has not gotten a good grip on this screw. Does anyone have advice on what I can do in order to extract it cleanly?
make sure you’re using a T5 and not the P5 you used to open the case
I have been trying as well and I believe in my MBP the screw that’s attached to the SSD is a T3 not a T5, which is why the T5 screwdriver that comes with the kit does not work.
Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Transcend 960GB JetDrive 720 SATAIII 6Gb/s Solid State Drive Upgrade Kit for MacBook Pro 13" with Retina Display, Late 2012 - Early 2013 (TS960GJDM720) - Is this compatible with the Macbook Pro 13" Retina - Mid 2014?
Según el fabricante no, me puse en contacto con ellos y dicen que estan en desarrollo. Yo ya pregunte en este foro por que otro unidad de ssd cambio la original y nadie responde...
According to the manufacturer no, I got in touch with them and say they are developing . I already ask at this forum by another unit ssd change the original and nobody answers ..
Manufacturers that don't say it's compatible, just haven't tested it. You just have to pay special attention to the notch(es) on the connector. I had a 512 GB SSD lying around, but it had two notches at 1/3 and 2/3 (M.2 B & M notches) instead of the MacBook's notch that's somewhat in the middle and is NOT a standard of the M.2 format.
Why do I need to disconnect the battery?
To prevent damage on motherboard while connecting/disconnecting SSD.
I read in other tutorials that when you disconnect the battery, you prevent electrical issues, shortcuts, etc, AND the system will start in a different mode and recognize that a new SSD drive is installed, else you may run into trouble trying to setup the new SSD
… as others, I am not an IT expert, but found the above tip was useful
Can i use 1T ssd in macbook Retina Mf840 ??? change 256 to 512 or 1T :/
Hey, do you know if Transcend Jetdrive 725 is compatible with a 2015 MBP 13 retina ? Thanks for your help
I’m hoping to install a 1TB or 2TB (preferably 2TB) in a MacBook Pro 13” early 2015 model. Which brand & model SSD would be recommended
I just installed a OWC Aura Pro 1T in my mid 2014 MacBook Pro. Reviews were really good, OWC makes SSD’s for macs. Review on Macworld were good and they won awards back in 2011. So far no issues. Ironically the SSD originally came in my MacBook is a sandisk from apple. Almost 5 years and never had issues. Just too small of an SSD. Keeping it in the OWC EnvoyPro enclosure that came with the upgrade kit.
Hey fellow Upgraders :)I am currently working with an MBP 13inch early 2015, 128 Gb SSD inside. As we all know, that is barely enough to store your own photos on, and when the wife’s collection is added… well, let’s just say I need to put at least a 1TB in :)
Checked all the comments, and concluded HW-wise Samsungs are a no go, as per notches not in the semi middle.
One thing I have not anybody seen mentioning here is the heat production of the SSD. If I would put a 1TB in will it likely overheat and die in the enclosure, or do I not have to worry about it. Although there are air-vents on the MBP, I have not found a fan (hate sound anyway) to keep things cool.
If you’d like to use Samsung’s M.2 NVMe SSDs (and probably any other M.2 NVMe SSD currently on the market) you’ll have to get an adapter that will allow it; https://www.amazon.com/Sintech-Adapter-U.... As far as heat production is concerned the SSD’s built-in throttling mechanism can help mitigate that if it decides it’s running too hot; usually when there are large file transfers taking place. Off the top of my head I think Samsung and WD do thermal throttling.
I just replaced my mid 2014 MacBook Pro 128 GB SSD to the Aura Pro X2 1T. Taking the old SSD out was easy but installing the new Aura pro X2 took several tries. I thought it was not going to fit as it only seated part way. I was getting a little worried but after a few tries I got it to seat all the way in. Formatted the drive per OWC instructions on their site and I’m waiting on the Time Machine Back-Up to complete. OWC site had a few e xtra steps than ifixit steps. MacBook Pro booted up fine and displayed the new Aura SSD. Formatted as noted in instructions as well. No issues to this point. I will update once restore is done. HOPE ALLWORKS FINE!!!!
SUCCESS!!!!! All worked great, took a bit to reboot after back up restore. Part of the issue why it took so long I had to turn WiFi back on. Then it uploaded all my settings once I signed into my Apple ID account.
Hola, gracias por la guia. Estoy pensando en cambiar mi disco SSD (128gb) del Macbook Pro Retina finales de 2013, para tener más espacio para Windows 10, que necesito para un tema de trabajo y ahora mismo tengo bootcamp y tanto el OS X como el Windows están ajustadisimos los dos metidos en 128Gb. ¿Podría seguir usando bootcamp tras actualizar el disco duro o cambia algo?
Nombre del modelo: MacBook Pro
Identificador del modelo: MacBookPro11,1
¿Alguien me recomienda en su caso un disco duro compatible de 480gb?
Carlos, aqui lo recomiendo un disco duro combatible de 480gb: OWC Aura Pro X2 SSD
Lo del bootcamp, no sé si entiendo completamente? Sí se puede seguir usando bootcamp tras actualizar el disco duro, pero yo creo que tendrá que iniciar bootcamp en el nuevo SSD primeramente, y copiar los datos del otro SSD después. Dependerá en cómo lo ha preparado en la maquina suya.
¡Que le vaya bien!
Muchas gracias. La idea era simplemente recuperar OS X (desde Time Machine o incluso reinstalar) y después ya volver a instalar bootcamp y Windows, mi duda era solo si al cambiar el disco sigue siendo siendo posible instalar bootcamp, y parece que así que me pondré a ello. Gracias!
My MacBook 13” retina mid 2014 won’t even turn on. Tried putting a new battery in, nothing. Can I remove the ssd and transfer the data using an external reader?
I was doing replacement using Transcend SSD and they provided an excellent guidance on how to restore the content of the SSD. Maybe it would help someone:
1. Insert Apple original SSD into your Mac's SSD slot
2. Power on and connect JDM855
3. Use Disk Utility to format the JDM SSD as APFS (GUID scheme)
4. Download Carbon Copy Cloner to clone your MacOS (Download Link: https://bombich.com/)
If your MacOS is 10.14 (Mojave), then you need to grant full disk access to this software.
5. Power off and replace JDM850 with Apple original SSD, put Apple SSD into JDM's enclosure case.
6. Power up and hold down "option" for few second
7. Choose the external drive to enter MacOS
8. Go "System Preference" to set JDM850 as start-up disk
9. Power off and disconnect the external drive
I changed the 128gb SSD (brand: Samsung) inside my early 2015 13” MBAir for a larger one from OWC. Functions as expected.
BUT: the 128gb SSD (from Samsung) does NOT retain information when used inside the OWC Envoy housing . . Conclusion: I own one 128gb SSD and one ENVOY, both useless . . .
OWC, since their website contains (incomplete) info about compatibility of Apple SSD’s, can’t do anything for me. My reseller states he did not know about the issue. Ergo . . no more OWC for me.
Does the replacement SSD need to be one sided construction?
ie; all components on the outer side, flat board underneath
Or will an SSD with components on both sides work?
And if so, okay for heat?
Wd_black SSDs - one-sided
Data xpg pro SSDs - double sided
Wandering the same as Tolga, are there any lists of compatible SSD for MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Mid 2014)?
Some tips on SSD for around 500 GB to an affordable price?
I am one more who’d like to know how to be certain the SSD drive i buy for my mid 2014 MBP will fit and work???
La velocidad de lectura/escritura no se ve reflejado de acuerdo con las especificaciones de una samsung sed 980 con capacidad de 1TB, la cual marca cerca de los 3500 mb, alguien sabe a que se debe esta situación? he buscado información al respecto pero no doy con la solución, la computadora es una MacBook Pro 13 pantalla retina Moo A1502 (principios 2015) .
La computadora la detecto correctamente y permitió instalar el sistema operativo correctamente, al aplicar Disk Speed no refleja aumento en la lectura/escritura
Compre el Modelo NVMe SSD P2, y lo instale en una macbook pro early 2015 con su respectivo adaptador, pero no lo reconoce, no aparece ni en la utilidad de disco, que proceso se le debo hacer para que pueda leer el disco mi macbook?
Hay mucha info en en hilo https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/upg... (mi post). Para mí fue demasiado el info, compré el Sabrent Rocket 1TB y el adaptador desde Amazon, también un caddy NVMe - USB para copiar mi sistema operativo con SuperDuper al Sabrent antes de instalarlo y se ha reconocido y a booteado sin problema.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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So… can I just buy the new PCIe SSDs and use it in the 2013 rMBP? I'm very confused about these PCIe SSDs.
My retina 15" got the logic board damage and fix it is just stupid. Now in the mean time the new ones come up next quarter, I'm using my macbook pro 2011. Now, because the 2011 is no Retina, SSD and all the other good stuff in it (crying in silence) I did some research to make the 2011 better and I found out I can upgrade to 16 ram and a SSD. Now I check and is not that expensive at least for a SSD 128. BUT this morning it hit me, and I want to ask and make research about this idea. Guys I was wondering, can I take the SSD from my Retina that is actually SSD 256 and put it in my 2011? And save in the SSD? I mean, if possible of curse, if not I would go to buy it how I plan in the first place. Anyway guys any suggestions, ideas or advice are all welcome. I want to know whats best to improve the 2011 meanwhile the new ones get the upgrade. Thanks in advance! :)
Can I use an Intel SSD 540s SSD M.2? Intel says it doesn't support NVMe. Does it need to or would that just add extra performance?
You can put an NVMe drive (with an adapter) in a late 2013 MBP, but you must have updated the OS to the latest version because the original, native OS does not support NVMe. Use Clonezilla to make a bare metal backup and use Clonezilla to restore it once NVMe is installed. Clonezilla wont work going down in size ie from a 1TB to 500GB drive.
Can you also please put a link how to reinstall mac os after installing a new hardrive? thanks
Google is your friend.
I have a 2015 model Macbook 13inch retina display. Is this sansung SSD compatible with it? https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/mem...
I upgraded the SSD to a OWC Aura Pro X2 SSD recommended by Taylor Dixon above. Replacing the disk was easy and after that, and setting up OS X again was also easy.
Then I tried to install Bootcamp, in order to install Windows 10 too (which is the main reason why I have upgraded the disk). I’ve had Bootcamp running in that machine already, but 120Gb disk for both OS makes them both have few space.
Sadly, Windows 10 installation fails after rebooting, it shows “Processing devices”, which goes to 100%, but then it shows “Processing” and after a while it crashes (BSOD), and you have to start again. cause after that every reboot leads you to a screen saying the installation could not continue and you should restart (what becomes and endless loop). Of course you can still boot OSX by pressing “option” on reboot, so I tried several times. Today I will try again with another USB stick, but if anyone has gone through this ir would be helpful to have some help.
Hi. I just wanted to mention I contacted OWC and they told me AUra Pro X2 SSD is NOT compatible with Bootcamp on Late 2013 MacBook Pro (MacbookPro 11,1). So if you are looking for a good solution to increase you OSX space it’s ok, but if what you want is to increase both OSX and Windows, forget about it.
Carlos, I’m so sorry to hear this! I should have done some more research before recommending the drive to you. It does look like OWC makes a “boot camp enabler” works for some of their drives? You can try downloading that here. Otherwise, you’re welcome to return the OWC drive and try using a standard m.2 drive with an adapter. Unfortunately we don’t sell the adapters though, so you’ll have to find one on your own. :( These adapters from Sintech come pretty highly recommended in this master SSD upgrade thread from MacRumors. Sorry again, and good luck!
Thank you guys for the replacement instructions. They worked like a charm and I had my drive replaced in absolutely now time. What I did to keep track of all of the screws, was to take a pice of A4 paper and draw a simple diagram on it, Next, I took sellotape and inverted it with the sticky side up and secured it with a few more pieces of sellotape. Then when I removed each screw, I was able to place it on the diagram so that knew exactly what screw came out of which hole, and didn’t misplace or loose any which may have happened has I have placed them on a flat surface. Total time to replace took around 12 minutes.
Is there any way to put this SSD into a device to recover data from it? Some sort of external drive bay?
if you want to be certain that the SSD you buy will work, buy whatever OWC (MacSales.com) recommends for your computer. Use the correct size and type of screwdrivers. Use static precautions. Set up an egg carton or the like, labelled with size/location of each screw you plan to remove/replace. There is not much visual difference, often the screws are the same but for a tiny difference in length, but the wrong screw in some spots can cause $£¥? trouble.
C’est facile, mais j’ai eu des difficultés avec les vis du Mac en dépit de mon boitier IFIXIT avec 54 embouts
Merci pour l’aide !
Replacing the drive was a snap. However, getting my MacBook Pro Late 2013 to recognize the new drive has been quite a chore. I’ve tried finding it with the disk tools and terminal and it’s not showing up. I have Catalina Mac OS installed. I eve. When back and backward installed High Sierra with an external boot disk and the upgraded to Catalina with no luck. Any suggestions?
I had a similar issue doing this with the macbook air and this might be the answer you are looking for
hola, que puedo hacer con este disco duro ssd de la mac book air que retire ? hay algun adaptador con entrada usb o entrada C para usarse en otra mac ?
I plan to upgrade my SSD from the stock apple 256GB to a 2TB SSD. I cracked my screen a while ago - replacing it is too expensive, so I just use an external screen. While booting and installing the OS will the HDMI / Display ports work? I hope so, otherwise, I'm stuck. I plan to boot from a USB flash drive.
Weird question maybe but with the original SSD out, how do I format it or use it on the same mac or windows via USB (with an adapter). Is there a driver or a specific software you guys know of? Could you point me in the right direction? Thank you for the guide!
For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?
Carlos - Responder
Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.
I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!
marketing - Responder
I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!
On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.
Dustin Steward - Responder
Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.
All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.
All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.
When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.
doubleclutch - Responder
This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.
Evan Shulman -
A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.
Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.
doubleclutch - Responder
I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.
However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.
Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.
colonel mustard - Responder
Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws
1. Pack of post it notes
2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note
3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is
ibash - Responder
Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:
yes > /dev/null
in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.
I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.
And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)
You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.
Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.
Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?
Andre van der Ham - Responder
Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol
Chat Dawgie - Responder
Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!
N DesRochers - Responder
Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.
chaslaw - Responder
I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop
Pete James - Responder
It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.
Marv Ruona - Responder
when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.
Jason Wade - Responder
Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!
John Foreman - Responder
I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.
Richard KeslerWest - Responder