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Introdução

Use this guide to replace a faulty MagSafe DC-In board.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Responder

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Responder

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Responder

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Responder

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Responder

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Responder

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Responder

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Responder

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Responder

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Responder

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Responder

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Responder

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Responder

  2. The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Responder

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Responder

  3. If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Responder

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Responder

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Responder

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Responder

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Responder

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Responder

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Responder

  5. Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Responder

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Responder

  6. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Pull in the direction of the cable, parallel to the logic board. Do not pull up. Pull in the direction of the cable, parallel to the logic board. Do not pull up.
    • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull in the direction of the cable, parallel to the logic board. Do not pull up.

    I managed to just move the cable without having to disconnect whilst replacing my MagSafe connector

    lewismacqueen - Responder

    Pull straight OUT not up.

    Mmm ttt - Responder

  7. Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board. Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    das Kabel ist oberhalbt ab Weg zur Ladeeinheit angeklebt. Vorsichtig lösen hilft ;)

    connector is glued to a silver covering on the way to the charchingunit.

    doaskwhy - Responder

  8. Remove the two 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.
    • Remove the two 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

    • You may need to gently push the display cable out of the way to expose the screws.

  9. Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it. Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it. Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it.
    • Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it.

    Before tightening the screws on the DC board, it helps to push it slightly outwards so that it seats against the case.

    Russell Hodin - Responder

    I just finished this install. It took me three hours to think about it and 20 min to do it. Fixed my problem right away. I am thrilled. Thank you SO much.

    samgo777 - Responder

    Thank you for the awesome step by step guide… the actual job took about 5 min… but while at it, cleaned the fan… you guys are the best.

    Calcasmy - Responder

    Step 9: My board held in place by 6-point screws. 5-point driver would not loosen.

    Overall - easy job, good instructions.

    pkeller - Responder

    Hi there! That’s a Torx screw (six points) not a pentalobe (5-points), as noted in the instructions it’s a size T5 Torx =) Great job on your repair!

    Sam Goldheart -

    Hey, I’m seeing no green light when I use my charger or any charger, is this maybe the culprit? Or the battery? Any advice would be awesome!

    Billy May - Responder

    it would be the charging port. i had to wiggle mine just to get it to charge.

    Gabriel Zepeda -

    After replacement still no green light on the charger (also when the battery is unplugged)…any advice pls?

    Michal Perner - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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5 comentários

How can I know if the magsafe is not working ?

lpelaez - Responder

Thanks for great tutorial!

Yep, what are the signs of bad dc-in board?

When I plug in the charger, LED on magsafe connector doesn't light up.

AC Charger Information:

Connected: Yes

ID: 0x0000

Revision: 0x0000

Family: 0x0000

Serial Number: 0x00000000

Charging: No

For some reason charging doesn't start, my battery has only 600 cycles on it.

Can you guys help?

P.S. I tried plugging other adapters thats working, same thing (

Olga Kolina - Responder

Did you ever get a solution? I got a new MacBook Pro and didn’t use this one for 2 months, then went to charge it and nothing happens! No light on the charger and the battery is totally dead! I’m going to replace this DC board and maybe the battery. Did you get yours working?

Billy May -

I Have replaced the battery and the machine still works under the power from the new battery but the LED won’t come on the magsafe charger. Now I have replaced the DC In board and still not charging. the charger works on the other Mac in the house. What could the issue be?

Christopher Culler - Responder

Will you have the replacement piece available anytime soon ?

hergas - Responder

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