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Introdução

Use this guide to replace the Retina display, display glass, and iSight camera assembly.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Responder

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Responder

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Responder

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Responder

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Responder

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Responder

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Responder

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Responder

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Responder

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Responder

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw - Responder

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James - Responder

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona - Responder

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade - Responder

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Responder

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Responder

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Responder

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Responder

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Responder

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet - Responder

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement, Battery Connector: step 4, image 1 of 1
    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Responder

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Responder

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis - Responder

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Responder

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Responder

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Responder

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Responder

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Responder

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes - Responder

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers - Responder

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc - Responder

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Responder

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Responder

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 7, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 7, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

    • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board.

    • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

    This is most difficult and time consuming portion of this entire procedure. Make sure to lift the connectors straight up - not to damage them. The reconnection of the contacts may take several tries. USE CARE AND BE PATIENT! You will eventually get them to connect.

    Darius - Responder

    does anyone have advice on what is the best tool to use for reconnecting? this is definitely the hardest step to reassembly

    M N - Responder

    When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.

    Joshua Johnson - Responder

    thank you Joshua, this helped me get them. they do take a bit of patience but it’s worth taking your time.

    Kevin Lynch -

    I got it! line the wire up; push the top part of the metal and give it firm pressure; they should snap in and connect

    M N - Responder

    You'll get 'em in. Work gently. Make sure they're exactly over top the bottom pins. Press down with a flat smudger. It took me a lot of gentle work to get them in.

    Kent - Responder

    I saw the sleeves on these.. and when looking at the replacement display saw they matched exactly and took the chance it was intentional. The only thing that got me.. was the bottom panel screws.. didn't know there were 3 types.. (should have known though, I mean right?! LOL Apple (rolls eyes) They could do like Samsung and use one screw for everything.. but oh no.. there is some OCD engineer that just likes SCREWING with people!

    Tim - Responder

    Pro Tip: When reassembling, do not screw on the metal tab attached to these connectors (part of step 15) until after you have all 3 connected. This gives you uninhibited range of motion for the 3 wires. Go slow as other commenters have said. Start with the shortest wire first. Once all 3 are connected, screw on the metal tab with those 2 screws. Finally double check that all 3 are still connected.

    D B - Responder

    I found an alternative method. That is NOT to disconnect these three tiny wires but instead, leave them attached to the AirPort board and remove the AirPort board itself and let it dangle safely to one side with all three antennae cables attached.

    Mac Neur-Berg - Responder

    @macnb, if you’re replacing the display, which is what these instructions are for, then you *must* disconnect these wires, as the new display includes new ones!

    jiclark - Responder

    Yes you are correct WHEN replacing the WHOLE display/LCD.

    In my case I was ONLY replacing the LCD display CABLE. So in my case it was not necessary to remove the wireless antenna (since I was not replacing them).

    Mac Neur-Berg -

    I remove the screw and pull out the Air Card, then after I get the new screen in I remove the Air Card from the connectors, making sure I notice which goes to which, and reattach them by holding the new Air Card in my left hand then with my right hand placing the connector over the spot where it connect, then using my thumb nail to press down the wire until it snaps. Much easier to manipulate the wires and where it connects with the Air Card out of it Socket.[br]

    Chap Gleason[br]

    Laptops for Missionaries

    Chapman Gleason - Responder

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    First, lift the flat cable just off the board as it is normally “stuck” to the board. This will help the connector to release from the socket.

    John Lopinto - Responder

    Ripped cable from logic board? Step 9.5

    iSight Camera broken off logic board

    jcob - Responder

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing.

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab.

    This is pulled straight out to the side of the Macbook, not up.

    nmackaron - Responder

    Thanks for adding this comment !

    jrbhome - Responder

    Please use a nylon black stick to lift the lock bar up and push the connection apart reason being is the lock bar should not be pulled on and by pulling on it like shown may cause damage to the MLB/DISPLAY connection and then you’re into not just a display repair but a MLB on top of it!!!

    Dutchie - Responder

    hello, im trying to do this because im experiencing a blackscreen problem. Id like to do this but my macbook looks so different than this one. Could anyone help me?

    Karla Díaz - Responder

    If it doesn’t look like this, you’re looking at the wrong guide.

    maccentric -

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 12, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges.

    What’s exactly the purpose of those rubber covers ? I appear to have lost one of them (the one to the side of the IO board) and I don’t know if I should absolutely get a replacement one or if I can reassemble the laptop without it

    Tim Rault - Responder

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets (one on each side of the Macbook).

    I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them

    harveyhalfpint - Responder

    Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set

    Steven Fillingham - Responder

    This is 1 screw on each side (not 2 on each side). They are circled in red.

    nmackaron - Responder

    The T5 in the set I bought from LaptopScreen.com was too big and started to strip these screws. Got an Ace Hardware brand one instead and it worked great.

    Brian Hultin - Responder

    Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.

    Mertensa Hens - Responder

    These were T4 not T5 size for me

    Praj Basnet - Responder

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 3 of 3
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

    • During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook.

    Vorsicht beim Wiederzusammenbau! Diese Schraube ist bei mir am Kopf abgebrochen, als ich sie etwas zu fest hineingedreht habe. Musste das Teil dann notdürftig mit Klebeband fixieren.

    ——-

    Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.

    Mertensa Hens - Responder

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the four outer 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

    • Some models may use T9 Torx screws rather than T8.

    Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

    Michael Kwok - Responder

    On my model, there was a thin piece of translucent plastic covering the left-side outer screws. It peeled off easily. It must be replaced upon reassembly. When removing these two (left-side) screws, a metal assembly securing the antenna wires was released below the screws. It must be replaced before reassembling these two screws.

    Ralph Begleiter - Responder

    The translucent plastic on those screws is the adhesive that holds the rubber hinge covers in place. Sometimes it stays attached to the hinge cover, sometimes it stays on the screws.

    maccentric -

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 16, image 2 of 2
    • Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end on the table, as shown.

    • While holding the display with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

    • Be sure the display and upper case are balanced and will not fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Display Assembly Replacement: step 17, image 3 of 3
    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly clockwise, toward the top of the display, so the display brackets clear the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    • Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

    When replacing the display assembly with a new one, the new hinges may be very hard to move into the 90 degree position. We found it helpful to loop a paperclip into the screw hole of the hinge to facilitate pulling open the hinge.

    Eric - Responder

    Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them

    Steven Fillingham - Responder

    The paper clip is a great tip. I also used the spudger flat end under the hinge and the metal side of the case as leverage to push it up.

    D B - Responder

    Excellent guide, Andrew! I am an ACMT and when disconnecting the eDP cable, I like to use the pointed ends of two spudgers (Apple calls them ‘black sticks’) to push the connector straight back out of the socket by pushing on its edges. This prevents any stress to the locking bar and also helps to ensure that the connector is disconnected evenly. For reassembly, I line up the connector carefully and once the pins are all lined up and the cable connector partially inserted, I push on the back edges on either side of the connector with the pointed ends of two spudgers, ‘walking’ the connector back into place so that it is even on both sides.

    Also, when disconnecting the camera cable connector from the logic board, I use the same method as above, situating the points of the sticks into the notches on each side of the connector and pushing straight back vs walking it back. I do the same thing when reconnecting the cable, but I ‘walk’ it back as mentioned above with the eDP cable connector.

    Ez Bless - Responder

    Also, once I have removed the clutch covers, I remove the two screws holding the metal antenna grounding loop in place (first picture in Step 15 of your guide). I move the loop out of the way and reinstall the two screws just until the heads of the screws make contact with the metal surface of the hinge. I loosen all of the rest of the screws and then tighten them back down just until the screws stop turning (without torquing them). I thoroughly brush off the surface area of the ESD mat where I am going to situate the MacBook for the next step, and then flip it over and open the display 90 degrees. I flip the machine back over and rotate it 90 degrees so that the ‘Apple’ logo on the back of the display lid is facing me, inverted, and the display hinges are much closer to me. After carefully scooting the machine back just until the display makes contact with the edge of the table, I pull the display up toward me to open it fully. I then carefully remove the hinge screws.

    Ez Bless - Responder

    For removal, you simply need to lift up slightly on the top edge of the display (possible once the 6 hinge screws have been fully removed) until it has cleared the recesses of the top case. It can then be lifted out without any hassle and you should not need to use any paper clips as mentioned in previous comments. I hope this helps someone; it is knowledge I have gained from following Apple’s Service Guides and experience from having replaced hundreds of displays in a short amount of time. We are an AASP on a university campus, so display repairs are VERY common (from mostly student customers).

    Ez Bless - Responder

    Excellent guide. My IT guys were scared to touch my mac but I did it myself. Thanks to ifixit

    Soul Reaver - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

159 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Sam Goldheart

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32 comentários

I've been browsing guides to this model and I don't get how in this one on Youtube the laptop looks completely different, although it also claims to be A1502. Either one of them is a different model or I'm really missing something?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL4gpfcb...

Marina Gorobevskaya - Responder

Unfortunately the A1502 number isn't an exclusive model number, several devices share it, the internal differences between them vary. The more telling number is the EMC number, which tends to me more exclusive to unique devices.

Sam Goldheart -

After a closer look they actually seem to be the same, I just got confused by the video being a lot less detailed than this walkthrough. I just replaced the screen of my macbook following this guide (yay!) without any previous experience of fixing macbooks, though I must admit I assembled a few desktops at the dawn of the millennium. The only slight problem I encountered was that the main display cable wouldn't lie flat enough in that corner, it kept sticking out, and even after screwing the lid on the gap at that corner seems to be a tiny bit wider. But the laptop is working anyway.

Thank you Sam for posting this guide! It saved me a lot of time and money. Being in China I bought the display assembly on Taobao for $250US whereas the shop repair estimate that I got was around $400.

If anyone is still having doubts - you can do it!

Marina Gorobevskaya -

The guide is very helpful. I managed to replace my screen within 1 hour. I bought my screen from ifixit too! the product is genuine and in good condition although it says that it has been used before! Highly recommended!

henrycwc - Responder

Can you replace just the LCD without the clamshell bezel and cables?

rickcostel - Responder

Kind of. In most laptops the lcd assembly is a separate unit that can be replaced. In these the top case serves as the lcd assembly.

But you can replace just the lcd polarizer. It is much more difficult than replacing the whole display assembly, as the diffuser panel which is directly behind the polarizer is very fragile.

This video provides a guide on how you can do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOS-rjvn...

elec1cele -

I managed to replace the display assembly pretty smoothly and got a cool video out of it! For anyone interested in watching a 2-minute time-lapse version, you can watch it here: (https://youtu.be/BHhpoG-0_oI)

bexoro - Responder

Great guide. I was able to complete this in 45 mins with a 4 year old running around the table I was working on. Thanks for a thorough guide. Also bought the screen from ifixit and it looks great.

searnold - Responder

Excellent guide! Completed it in about 20 minutes and everything works now!

Vsevolod Kamnev - Responder

Great guide, easy to follow.

Replacement display from iFixit had the brackets folded down towards the screen, had to unfold them carefully with pliers.

Take note - the black hinge cover (the bulge on the display assembly) shifts left and right. Make sure to adjust it dead center when assembling. Also make sure to align display with bottom case perfectly before tightening down the bracket screws.

Leonid - Responder

good guide replaced my screen no major issues, reattaching the three small cables was the trickiest bit and definitely needed care.

nikolas hodges - Responder

To reinstall the new display, do you just follow the instructions backwards?

Tee - Responder

A great guide, I spent around an hour to complete removal and install of new display (from iFixit), its cheaper than getting Apple repaired and results in a great quality fix, my daughter is over the moon. I chose the B grade screen and its great, not sure what scratches they are referring to :)

Steven Fillingham - Responder

Followed this guide and mine turned out AMAZING. So happy I didn't spend the $500-$600 to have someone else fix it. Literally spent less than an hour to do it all. I would highly recommend buying the needed tools for it .

Shane Hennessy - Responder

Am I wrong or it is not possible to replace the front-glass only (without the LCD), on the A1502 Model ? (late 2013) ?

I cannot find the front-glass for this model on the internet... any idea where I can find it ?

Clement Bouchardeau - Responder

I need to replace the hinge connected to the display assembly, would that be possible?

Sokar599 - Responder

Brilliant guide as usual all done in half an hour. Worth noting that I could not adjust the brightness at first but a PRAM reset sorted that out nicely.

Thank you.

MattOckendon - Responder

Just did the same repair.. I am also having display brightness issues but already tried PRAM and SMC resets. Brightness works under Bootcamp but not macOS... any ideas? A third party utility I downloaded allows me to control brightness but I really should be able to use the brightness adjustment keys. Lastly, the 1440x900 display resolution option is gone as well. Stuck with 1024x600 or 1280x800 (default but highest resolution option I have).

Santiago Moreno -

Step 15, Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

Michael Kwok - Responder

Thanks for the very detailed guide. Replacing the screen worked like a charm! But I have a problem: My screen does not turn on. I can hear the start-up sound but the display only shows a black light. By connecting an external screen via HDMI and closing the lid I can boot normally. I tried PRAM and SMC reset, but neither helped. I switched back to the old/half broken screen and it turned on normally. Any idea what I could do next?

Sonopha - Responder

Hi, it’s me again. I managed to make it work. It seems that one of the connectors were not connected in the right way. I did not do anything different but switched once back to the old screen and then to the new one again, and it is working. I suspect the one from step 11. I read in other forums that the display connector can be a problem. Thanks for this wonderful guide!

Sonopha -

Super Anleitung. Ich hab es auf den ersten Anlauf geschafft. Danke

Theater Salz und Pfeffer - Responder

My display is fine but my cable appear to be broken. It only works at certain angles. Is there any way I can avoid replacing the whole screen?

Jerry G. - Responder

Excellent, thought I’d killed my screen by dropping the ‘book, but all I needed to do was reseat the main cable. THANKS!!

Benspamm - Responder

This is a great guide! Managed to complete removing the display assembly in less than 20 minutes. Any leads on how to fix/replace a broken lcd? Can that be done? or does one need to replace the entire display assembly?

Mitalee Parikh - Responder

How can I know if my laptop would need a t9 or t8 for step 15??

Ali - Responder

Many thanks for the detailed, careful instructions - and especially the clear, useful photos. Saved me a lot of money, and a lot of headache. Repair was clear and straightforward.

Ralph Begleiter - Responder

Hi,

can I replace an damaged display of a MacBook Pro 13” late 2013 with a display from the early 2013 version?

I compared the high-def pictures of each cable connection and they seem to be identical, or am I wrong?

Thanks for the help.

Cheers

L

Hans Wurst - Responder

I got Apple Mac Book Pro late 2013 with damage screen from my son.Machine is fine.Apple store is asking $600 to replace old screen with new one.As sinior this is too much for me.I have two questions.Does it worth to replace screen and who in Winnipeg can replace broken screen with used one and how much it is going to cost me?

Slobodan - Responder

Bit late here, but I got a replacement screen off Ali Express that currently goes new for US$240, shipping included, that has been working fine for 2 years now. As for who can replace it, with US$25-30 of tools from iFixit, you can! It really is not very hard at all, with one exception. Step #8, when reassembing at least one of the connectors will be a major pain to reattach. Read the comments on this step, they will help you a lot, If it were noit fir step 8, I would call this an easy repair. The other piece of advice I can give is set out a big peice of masking tape and put a number down for each step that removes screws on the tape. As you remove each screw, put it on the tape in the steos spot, If the screws form a pattern on the computer when screwed in, place them on he tape in the same pattern. It makes reassembly a snap!

Michael Clark -

I replaced my screen but the brightness control doesn’t have any effect. The brightness level shows on the screen as I adjust it, but the screen brightness doesn’t change. I reseated the connector on the top right but it didn’t fix it. The pc is usable but I’d like to be able to adjust my brightness

BobDown - Responder

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