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Introdução

Use this guide to replace the display assembly of your non-Touch Bar MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2017, Two Thunderbolt 3 ports).

Before starting this procedure, you may want to check with Apple to see if you qualify for a free repair. If your display’s backlight has stopped working, or the display shows vertical bright areas along the entire bottom of the screen (a.k.a. “stage lights”), your MacBook Pro may be eligible for Apple’s display backlight service program.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% charge before starting repairs.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Responder

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Responder

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Responder

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Responder

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Responder

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 6.2 mm screws

    • Two 5.3 mm screws

    • Two 3.4 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.

    Aaron Dalziel - Responder

  2. Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro. Lift the suction handle to create a slight separation between the lower case and the chassis.
    • Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.

    • Lift the suction handle to create a slight separation between the lower case and the chassis.

  3. Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

  4. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

  5. Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes. Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis. Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.
    • Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.

    • Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.

    • Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

  6. Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. It may help to pull first at one corner, then the other. This may require a lot of force.
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • It may help to pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • This may require a lot of force.

  7. Remove the lower case.
    • Remove the lower case.

  8. Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery. Remove the tape.
    • Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • Remove the tape.

    once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.

    Anton Monakhov - Responder

    The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.

    Tarun Thiruma - Responder

  9. Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector. The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.
    • Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

  10. OPEN ALL THE TABS

    RAM Upgrade Kits for Mac

    Confira os kits

    Enough RAM
    For All The Tabs

    Confira os kits
  11. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

  12. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket. Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

    the cable connector (where the twizzer tip is) should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone before insertion because the cover (where the tip is holding it back) will have glue deposit smeared on top of the connector circuit traces. Glue will prevent a good connection with the BMS.

    tarex7 - Responder

  13. Fold the battery board data cable back and out of the way.
    • Fold the battery board data cable back and out of the way.

    • If you're replacing your battery, you may need to completely remove and transfer this cable to your new battery. Disconnect both ends and carefully remove the cable. During installation, be careful not to install it upside-down or backwards—note the orientation in the photos.

    The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.

    MikeG1 - Responder

    I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!

    lamajr - Responder

    So you have to take the small black square off that connects the ribbon to the base? I did that so as to remove the whole ribbon and replace it with the one attached to the new battery. I tried taping it down (okay and pritt sticking) now my laptop is fudged. when I turned it on again There was an X through the battery, and now it won’t load/ switch on at all and sounds like it’s about to take off. Can anyone help please?!

    isiirwin - Responder

  14. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

    When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.

    tarex7 - Responder

  15. Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

  16. Remove the four 1.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the plastic covers on top of the display hinges. Remove both plastic hinge covers. Remove both plastic hinge covers.
    • Remove the four 1.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the plastic covers on top of the display hinges.

    • Remove both plastic hinge covers.

  17. Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable.

    • Remove the cover.

    These are T4

    DarrenG - Responder

  18. Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector. Remove the cover.
    • Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector.

    • Remove the cover.

    These are also T4

    DarrenG - Responder

  19. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board. Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.
    • Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

  20. Remove the four 1.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two aluminum covers on top of the two display cables. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers.
    • Remove the four 1.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the two aluminum covers on top of the two display cables.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two aluminium covers.

  21. Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws (one from each side) securing the antenna cable assembly. Also remove the two 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws (one from each side).
    • Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws (one from each side) securing the antenna cable assembly.

    • Also remove the two 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws (one from each side).

    • Remove the twelve 1.1 mm P2 pentalobe screws (six from each side) securing the rest of the antenna cable assembly.

    I cannot find 1.1 mm P2 screwdriver heads, only 0.8mm and 1.2mm P@s seem to be out there…

    Jurgen - Responder

    Un reassembly, DONT OVERLOOK the placement of the “Board Flex Cable” from step 19. Make sure you don’t leave it imprisoned under this assembly. It needs to be lying over all this assembly.

    lamajr - Responder

  22. Carefully disconnect the two antenna coax cables by prying them straight up from the logic board. Slide your tweezers or spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it. To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
    • Carefully disconnect the two antenna coax cables by prying them straight up from the logic board.

    • Slide your tweezers or spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

  23. Remove the 2.8 mm T5 Torx screw securing the two antenna coax cables to the main board.
    • Remove the 2.8 mm T5 Torx screw securing the two antenna coax cables to the main board.

  24. Use an opening pick to lever out the antenna cable assembly in the areas shown. Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, as there are two display cables in the way that may be damaged. Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, as there are two display cables in the way that may be damaged.
    • Use an opening pick to lever out the antenna cable assembly in the areas shown.

    • Don't slide the opening pick from side to side, as there are two display cables in the way that may be damaged.

  25. Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle through the hole in the chassis. Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle through the hole in the chassis. Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle through the hole in the chassis.
    • Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle through the hole in the chassis.

  26. Remove the antenna cable assembly.
    • Remove the antenna cable assembly.

    • During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide through the hole in the chassis into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.

  27. Remove the four 3.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the cover springs on the two display cables.
    • Remove the four 3.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the cover springs on the two display cables.

    These are T4 not T3

    DarrenG - Responder

  28. Grab the left side of the display cable assembly and pull it towards the bottom end of the MacBook and away from the  cover spring. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the cover  spring on the display cable out of its recess. Repeat this step with the right cover spring.
    • Grab the left side of the display cable assembly and pull it towards the bottom end of the MacBook and away from the cover spring.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the cover spring on the display cable out of its recess.

    • Repeat this step with the right cover spring.

  29. Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side. While steadying the MacBook pro with your free hand, remove the three T8 Torx screws from the lower display hinge.
    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

    • While steadying the MacBook pro with your free hand, remove the three T8 Torx screws from the lower display hinge.

    • Remove the remaining three T8 Torx screws from the upper display bracket.

    4 + 2 + 2 =8 screws

    There are in fact only 6 screws on the bottom case .

    ianyounie - Responder

  30. Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step. Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinge brackets can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis. Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.
    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinge brackets can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

    • Remove the display/screen assembly, being careful not to snag it on any cables.

    • During reassembly, ensure the display cable assembly lies on the correct side of the main body before refastening the hinge bolts.

    • Be sure to confirm that both connectors on either side of the display cable assembly are fully seated, as these may have come loose during the disassembly process.

    The macsales.com channel has a good video on how to take this cover off the correct way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOrm48Jh...

    Kelly Spongberg - Responder

    The clips near the hinge actually slide.

    It is best to start at the front of the laptop using a plastic opening pick and then release the clips at the left and right-hand sides.

    Once the are free, slide the case towards you (away from the hinge) and it should come free fairly easily.

    If you try and lift the cover with too much force, you risk damaging the clips near the hinge.

    Darrell Haslam - Responder

Conclusão

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting or search our Answers community for help.

31 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Tarun Thiruma

Membro desde: 20/11/2019

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This guide sucks really bad.. missed steps. so unclear about everything. crappy pictures, I suggest you re do this whole thing.

Eugene Baker - Responder

10-15 minutes is good plus reassembly, major steps are missed this can misguide someone

Mwango - Responder

Good guide for someone with experience. I would add a few extra steps with more details, including some additional warnings since having a beginner follow this guide could result in failure in repairing the device. PLEASE HAVE SOMEONE WITH EXPERIENCE PERFORM THIS REPAIR!

Genesis Soto - Responder

This worked perfectly and saved me a lot of money. Many thanks.

Andrew Brown - Responder

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