MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011 Left Speaker Replacement

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

im looking for a Logic Board for a

Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

Any help is appreciated.

P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

This is the tricky part if there is one. Just pull back towards the battery and not up.

hello there, My macbook air does not recognize a battery connected, anymore.

It looks like I damaged the connectors while trying to connect the battery back, although it does not look damaged. I must say, I tried a little force to squeeze the connector in the middle instead of the edge. May have damaged the connector ?

Once, after this, the MBA recognized my battery when pressed the connectors edge to the pins on the board. However, this did not last long and my MBA does not recognize the battery anymore. Any solutions on how I can fix this ? Please help.

Had the same issue where my Macbook did not recognize the battery on the first try. I opened it back up and re-seated the connector and that fixed the problem. That particular connector does not seem to have a positive engagement. It does not appear to seat all the way down. It’s charging now and I hope it will remain stable and connected as I travel.

When we were putting the new battery in, it was easier to fit the tab back on and then fit the battery in place. I had someone helping me and they held the new battery up whilst I pushed the tab in. It was quite tight, and I ended up easing it in with the tip of a screwdriver on each edge in turn.

The plastic pull tab broke off with the tiny tug I gave it (Mid-2011 Air). I just unscrewed the battery and carefully pulled out the connector when I had the extra room.

for my 11inch mac air [mid 2011] the connecter is connected vertically and not horizontally - so you need to pull up, not back. thanks to Will for the links to the illustrations that made that clear. Getting the connecter to release was the hardest part of the job - otherwise, it was just removing screws.

Les couleurs ne me semblent pas justes.

The screw heads are made of a soft butter like chinese metal and will easily get f*cked up. take care when reinstalling to not mess them up.

les couleur sont justes; die rot markierten Schrauben oben und mitte sind länger als die unteren.

I had used the P5 driver there, too (just gently put the bit into the screws and see that’ll fit.

The battery doesn’t actually need to come out for this repair if you’re confident working in tight spaces.

Quick note about the replacement battery, if you bought from iFixit and the battery sections have a thin film over them, peel them off. They're to protect the battery during transit, and if you leave them on they might cause heating issues.

Here is a link to my question about it: Replacement battery has thin film on each section do I need to remove? plus, I just got an email from iFixit customer support that it needs to be removed.

thank you for the help! I installed the proper batt properly following the advice from here;-) Mahalo from Hawaii-

Does replacement battery for Macbook Air 13" Mid 2012 works with Mac OS Sierra 10.12.3 and up?

I installed the battery (OEM Apple) for the Mac Air 2013 throygh 2015:

1. the battery for the Mac Air 2012 throygh 2015 was stated to may have compatibility problems;

2. lesser price;

no problems with macOS Sierra.

Replaced it in no time! Thank you and cheers from Slovenia (that’s the one who beat you in hockey few days ago

iFixit should really clarify whether the film covering each of the battery packs should or should not be removed. Based on dpchoung’s comment I removed this film. It was not obvious or easy to remove and as I was doing it I realized that maybe this was not a good idea as I was concerned the packs might be damaged in the removal process. I suspect most people don’t bother with this film. Later, clicking on the forum exchange I see conflicting advice. My guess is that the film provides added protection and has minimal impact on thermal issues. I am sorry I went through the bother of removing the film and hope no damage was done.

Ich hab’ gelesen, dass neu eingebaute Batterien kalibriert werden müssen: https://www.newertech.com/batteries/powe...

Step 1 has an error, at least for me. I believe the 10 pentalobe screws are size P4, not P5. My Wiha P5 pentalobe screwdriver was too big for the screws, but my smaller P4 pentalobe screwdriver worked fine.

Great here. Replacement was a breeze. Thanks guys.

This photograph does not match the model. The microphone has a flat ribbon cable, not a round one.

Also, the wire has no retaining clip in this model.