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    • Before proceeding, power off the device, close the lid and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the eight 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

  1. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 2, imagem 1 %32
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  2. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: passo 3, imagem 1 %32
    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge. This step is optional and is not required.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

  3. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board Cable: passo 4, imagem 1 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

    Die nachfolgenden Schritte sind nicht erforderlich. Bitte bei Schritt 11 weitermachen.

    Volker - Responder

    Es ist nicht erforderlich, IO-Board, Akku und Logic-Board auszubauen. Es genügt, die Antennen- das Kamera- und das Displaykabel zu entfernen und die Scharniere abzumontieren. Die Kabel können leicht an den vorhandenen Komponenten vorbeigezogen werden.

    Volker - Responder

  4. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 5, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 5, imagem 2 %32
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

  5. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Fan: passo 6, imagem 1 %32
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  6. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 7, imagem 1 %32
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

  7. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 8, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

  8. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 9, imagem 1 %32
    • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

  9. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board: passo 10, imagem 1 %32
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

    When assemble, Step9 fan connector first

    taizoy0725 - Responder

  10. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 11, imagem 1 %32
    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Die nachfolgenden Schritte sind nicht erforderlich. Einfach bei Schritt 20 weitermachen.

    Volker - Responder

  11. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 12, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 12, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    • De-route the left speaker cable from its retainer on the I/O board.

  12. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 13, imagem 1 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

  13. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 14, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    When inserting new board, make sure the headphones jack socket rim is registered properly with the case hole before tightening T5 screw.

    sutherlandralph - Responder

  14. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 15, imagem 1 %32
    • Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  15. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: passo 16, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

  16. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 17, imagem 1 %32
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  17. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board: passo 18, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board: passo 18, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

  18. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 19, imagem 1 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the cables.

  19. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 20, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 20, imagem 2 %32
    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket by sliding it toward the corner of the Air.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

  20. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 21, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 21, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    When you are assembleIng , you shoud this phase at settin mother board

    taizoy0725 - Responder

  21. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 22, imagem 1 %32
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

    Schritt 23 bis 25 kann man sich auch schenken.

    Volker - Responder

  22. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 23, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    2.85 and Large head screw

    taizoy0725 - Responder

  23. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 24, imagem 1 %32
    • Do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

  24. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 25, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    Actually the screws are 3.6mm (not 6.3mm).

    toliqdoi - Responder

  25. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 26, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    Schritt 27 bis 29 sind nicht erforderlich.

    Volker - Responder

  26. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 27, imagem 1 %32
    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

  27. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 28, imagem 1 %32
    • Hold the antenna cables out of the way as you lift the heat sink end of the logic board out of the upper case.

  28. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 29, imagem 1 %32
    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    Really great guide!!!

    My only issue was the removal of the logic board was a bit nerve wracking.

    The speaker wire was stressed heavily as the board tilted up. Removing the speakers before the board would solve this.

    I did it in that order during reassembly, and it worked great.

    gifts1000 - Responder

    I also had an issue with the logic board installation as the above comment mentioned. I found easiest way is to just remove the speaker that you just re-installed. It's 1 screw - take that speaker out and now that wire that was bumping logic board is out of the way, and just then re-install the speaker.

    Rich Davies - Responder

    When replacing the logic board, make sure the two rf connectors are out of the way before you put the screws back.

    Andrew Burroughs - Responder

  29. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 30, imagem 1 %32
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.

  30. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 31, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right display hinge to the upper case.

    • We intentionally have you leave the third screw in to aid in future steps.

  31. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 32, imagem 1 %32
    • Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

    • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  32. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 33, imagem 1 %32
    • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

    • Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  33. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 34, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 34, imagem 2 %32
    • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

    • Keep track of the shims under each of the two display brackets. When installing the display, be sure a shim is installed under each display bracket (against the upper case) as shown in the second picture.

  34. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: passo 35, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the single 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the right speaker to the upper case.

  35. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 36, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 36, imagem 2 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 36, imagem 3 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

  36. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 37, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the single 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the left speaker to the upper case.

  37. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 38, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 38, imagem 2 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 38, imagem 3 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

  38. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 39, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 39, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone away from the left side of the upper case.

    • Remove the microphone from the upper case.

    • Upper case remains.

    Thing to note when re-attaching the microphone - make sure that its sensor, which is located at bottom, is aligned with the hole.

    Jaroslaw Lipski - Responder

  39. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 40, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 40, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the rear edge of the Air.

  40. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 41, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 41, imagem 2 %32 MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 41, imagem 3 %32
    • While carefully lifting the keyboard ribbon cable with one hand, use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

  41. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 42, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the following seven screws:

    • Six 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the the trackpad to the upper case.

    • One 1.4 mm T5 Torx set screw near the front edge of the upper case.

    • During reassembly, do not over-tighten the set screw, as the button will cease to click at a certain point. Adjust the set screw until the movable side of the trackpad has minimal play.

    Great guide. The only problem was that I didn't have such small Phillips screwdriver for the last step, so I needed to make a quick trip to a shop. Although it's standard tool, perhaps it makes sense to add it to required tools section?

    Jaroslaw Lipski - Responder

    @Jaroslaw Lipski (or anyone else) - I ran into the same problem in that I did not have a small enough Phillips screwdriver for the last step -- Does anyone know what exact screwdriver I need?

    oscarmazariegosfacebook -

    PH00 and push high pressher. but sometime false and cannot screw any more. its too difficult and never back. I cannot and buy keyboard and trackpad.

    taizoy0725 - Responder

  42. MacBook Air 13" Late 2010 Upper Case Replacement: passo 43, imagem 1 %32
    • Carefully lift the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by lifting it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad from the upper case.

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

36 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

7 comentários

I'm pretty experienced in dismantling/reassembling Aluminum MacBook Pros, plastic MacBooks, aluminum Powerbooks and various iBooks and this was not bad at all. Mostly just time-consuming.

I'm not sure I'd rate it as "difficult" for those with previous experience. The screw count is particularly low by comparison to other machines I've worked on, and there are only a few different types of screw.

The new top case arrived with the adhesives to re-secure the speakers, new screws to attach the trackpad, and the microphone was pre-installed.

Excellent guide, and a great help as always. Thanks!

charlesveit - Responder

I just repaired my mba after spilling some juice on it... I did it in about 2hours, i kept track of the screws in each step and i must say it wasn't difficult at all, and i have no experience with computer so.. Just be careful with some wires and when you disconnect the monitor but that's all. I'm so happy my mba works again! The upper case and the tools arrived very quick and with adhesives and some extra screws (much appreciated since the stock screws were kind of damaged and i had to break one) for the trackpad. Thanks ifixit!

Bonsaycow - Responder

Right On! I did the whole thing in 2 hours. Great guide and I would rate this task as medium not difficult. Thanks again spot on!!

Son of Raven

Chris - Responder

Just completed the upper case replacement today due to a failed keyboard and also a failed touch pad (due to liquid damage). Took a few hours to take it apart (and be careful as I was doing it) found hardest part was keeping track of screws and parts. I ended up using plastic red/white Solo cups with the Step # written on each cup (so you don't confuse the screws per step). Undoing the retaining clips for ribbon wires was hardest part highly recommend using a spudger with a fine tip as these are very tiny parts.

Rich Davies - Responder

The instructions were great. I used a white plastic ice-tray to hold the screws and fill each cube up sequentially. All you have to do, is work backwards through the recesses to where you started. No way to mix things up and hard to tip over.

Andrew Burroughs - Responder

Photos and descriptions are so good I was able to do this with no experience. My wife and I did it together which was like a cheap date. Two people came in handy mating the display to the hinges while keeping the shims lined up.

We had to temporarily tape the shims in place to get things to line up for screw installation.That was the crux move of this repair.Thank you for the write up.

joseph armistead - Responder

Great guide - ice tray idea was good - wrote numbers of the compartments with a sharpie, and wrote them on the printed guide. Took around 1.5 hours to do a keyboard (ie, bottom half of laptop) swap.

Noted that the rubber gasket around the fan didnt quite go back properly (should be noted it seems to need to be fitted before the logic board goes back).

Also I picked up a replacement bottom half from ebay with the speakers and mike already in place, so that removed the most dubious part of the exercise.

Wouldnt call this hard - id call it medium…. Hard is a screen swap on a 3DS - I failed on that one… RIP 3ds

Also was surprised how easy the screen connector was to open / close, and by how small the flaps are on the other flatflex connectors.

George Styles - Responder

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