Introdução

Use this guide to replace the logic board.

Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste before reinstalling your heat sink on the new board.

  • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

When you say:

Remove the following ten screws:

Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

Nerdily yours,

Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

larryleveen - Responder

The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

Michael Welham -

I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

Allen - Responder

The magnetic mat is

GERARD SZAREK -

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

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  • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.

When reassembling the connector wire needs to be bent to fit.

GERARD SZAREK - Responder

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left and right I/O board cable connectors up off their respective sockets on the I/O board.

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  • Lift and remove the I/O board cable.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.

  • We recommend you gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

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  • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw

      • In some models this is a 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw.

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  • Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.

  • Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card, and move them out of the way.

Be very careful. When I did this - just as in the photo - I prised the top of the antenna connector off from the bottom of it, leaving me with only one functioning antenna.

Andrew Wainwright - Responder

  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

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  • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

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  • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the front edge of the Air.

Did it wrong to begin with by taking the complete socket away and not just the insert. Now I can’t get the socket back on the logic board contacts. Any ideas?

John Lillywhite - Responder

I have the same issue! Did you find a solution?

Alexis Townsend -

  • Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the antenna cables from their notches in the logic board.

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  • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

  • While holding the lock away from the socket, gently pull the display data cable out of its socket.

  • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.

  • De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

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  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

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  • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

  • To avoid damaging its socket on the logic board, do not excessively lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

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  • Remove the three 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

  • In some models these are 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

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  • Gently lift the logic board assembly from the heat sink end and pull it away from the port side of the case to remove it from the Air.

    • When replacing the logic board, insert the board's rubber edge under the port-side rubber gasket, then lower the board into place.

There's a screw that's connecting the logic board to the casing that has to be removed before sliding the logic board out. I found that out the hard way.

Andrea Carter - Responder

When replacing the logic board, make sure you haven’t trapped an antenna cable underneath. Easy to sort it out now, much more annoying if you only discover it after screwing everything down first!

Andrew Wainwright - Responder

  • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

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  • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU.

  • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

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  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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  • Lift the free end of the SSD just enough to get a good hold of it.

  • Do not excessively lift the end of the SSD.

  • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

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Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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