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Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement

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  1. Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Preparation: passo 1, imagem 1 %32 Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Preparation: passo 1, imagem 2 %32 Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Preparation: passo 1, imagem 3 %32
    • Remove tracking ball

    • Turn power switch to the off position

    • Open battery door

    • Remove AA battery

    wat is het nummer voor de vervanging van de zender in de muis?

    J. Tillie - Responder

  2. Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Taking mouse body apart: passo 2, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove 3 pads as shown in the picture

    • Unscrew the 5 bolts using Phillips #1 screwdriver

    • The last screw is hidden under the battery label. You will have to poke a hole to get to it.

    Partly lifting up the battery label from the left-hand side also worked for me. :)

    Henrik Hille - Responder

    My rubber pad came off fairly easy (pinch them and slowly remove) and the adhesive remained on the pads, making it easy to replace them at the end.

    Erik G - Responder

  3. Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Detaching PCB: passo 3, imagem 1 %32 Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Detaching PCB: passo 3, imagem 2 %32 Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Detaching PCB: passo 3, imagem 3 %32
    • Lift the latch up and pull flex circuit out of connector. Detach tracking ball sensor.

    • Unscrew first screw and detach little PCB

    • Take the other 3 screws out. The last screw is hidden behind a capacitor in the picture

  4. Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Removing PCB: passo 4, imagem 1 %32 Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Removing PCB: passo 4, imagem 2 %32
    • Carefully remove PCB. Take care not to bend battery connector

    • Remove power switch. Otherwise it might fall out and you will never see it again...

  5. Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Replacing switches: passo 5, imagem 1 %32 Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Replacing switches: passo 5, imagem 2 %32 Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball Switches Replacement, Replacing switches: passo 5, imagem 3 %32
    • As you may see one of the switches is completely busted. It has to be replaced!

    • There are few replacements out there. I've used this one. But you might want to use original one. Or the rival one.

    • It really does not matter much. The difference is operating force. The original one comes with 75 gf which gives lighter clicking action. But I went with 150 gf for the replacement since those should last longer...

    • Take old switches out. Might be a little tricky! You might want to use multiple soldering irons to heat all 3 pins at once. Or heat gun. The choice is yours. Just be careful not to burn yourself! FYI, this is probably not the best project for the first soldering experience!

    • Solder new switches on.

    Thanks for the guide. Just finished successfully changing out the switches in one of my M570’s!

    subpaccdr - Responder

    Great guide. I just did this with 3 M570’s that all had issues with the left click.

    This was my first real experience soldering, and I used a cheap solder sucker to help get the old microswitches out. It was still difficult and I ended up breaking most of the old ones. Once they were out though, putting the new ones in was really easy.

    FYI, the link to the “original” microwitch is not quite right. The M570 uses Chinese Omron D2FC-F-7N, whereas the ones you linked to (which are the ones I used for replacement) are Japanese Omron D2F-01F.

    Mathieu Goodman - Responder

    Seems to have worked well. I used an iron with a “angled chisel” shaped tip which reached two of the wires at a time and walked the old microswitch out and then the new one back in. First of all, I wicked off the old solder with a bit of fine multi-strand wire from a bit of old phone of extension cable. I gave up on applying various contact cleaners etc. and gave in an bought some microswitches - I just had a look in my Cordless Trackman Wheel and they are the same switches but it is a bit more involved to get to the board where the microswitches are located. Since it is still clicking well I just put some contact lubricant (Power-Lube PL-64) on them. Be careful on reassembly to get the spring on the wheel back in place (when you open it the wheel may stay in the upper part of the casing - don’t loose the spring - to put it back - first position the wheel in place in circuit board.

    Christopher - Responder

    You don’t need to get a solder sucker as Mathieu suggests - look out a bit of fine multi-strand wire (old phone extension cables - the flexible ones that go from the wall socket to the phone) will do fine as a solder wick. - Flux does help - a “no mess” one is the best to use - microscopic amounts.

    Christopher - Responder

    What about the micro switch with the red button, mine isn't working properly when I press down on the wheel, what part number would that be?

    Alucard6X - Responder

    I switched out my switch with the one you recommended yet it is too tall, and closing the case causes the switch t be rendered useless, maybe I did’’t get the switch all the way in. Maybe you have a fix?

    Dylan Church - Responder

    Either you have not installed it flush to the PCB or possibly you have it in backwards. If it is in correctly, check to ensure the PCB is mating with the power switch correctly. Had one I did that I didn’t check for that and it caused the problem you are having. Easy way to check is try to turn the switch on. Should move relatively easy.

    freemanmarc74 -

    For those in Australia, Jaycar sell a compatible switch, CAT.NO:  SM1036. It comes with a lever attached but it can easily be removed. The operating force required is notably higher than the original.

    Chris Alger - Responder

    I struggled to remove the solder, but was able to easier heat and afterwards remove with a solder sucker after adding some fresh solder (maybe the flux helped). I'm not sure if this is a real technique, but it worked for me.

    I used the switches linked in the guide. They seem to work so far but time will tell if they last a reasonable amount of time.

    Thank you for the guide.

    Erik G - Responder

    Nice write-up, keep working the way you are. I am a fan of wired trackballs and my micro-switch is broken on two of them. Time for surgery.

    Hubert Rodenbaugh Jrq - Responder

    I managed to remove the switches fairly easily with a heat gun, I had to make a little aluminum foil cone to focus the heat first. I attached a pair of mini vice grips to the switch itself, and then placed the PCB in a PCB holder. I flipped the board over so that the switch and vice grips were hanging down, applied the heat gun to the pins, and gravity did the rest! Getting the holes cleaned out and large enough for the pins of the new switch took a little more time, I used a soldering gun and a needle to widen them.

    Bruce Dole - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in the reverse order.

35 outras pessoas executaram este guia.

Kirill

Membro desde: 04/11/17

1.487 Reputação

Autoria de 2 guias

19 comentários

Instructions are very clear and accurate. The most difficult part of this repair is de-soldering the switch, additional information is needed for this step.

Hugo Castro - Responder

Yeah, you either have to use 2 irons to apply heat to 3 pins at the same time. Or take apart body of the switch and cut one of the pins from the body. That way you can use one iron to apply heat to 2 pins at the same time to get it detached from PCB

Kirill - Responder

Folks, use a solder sucker and a solder wick. There should be many articles out there on using solder (extractor) sucker and wick. But basically you melt solder , solder sucker sucks up the most of it (Put the tip right over the end of the metal leg RIGHT after melting) All has to happenen very quickly.

Then the solder wick, you rub over the metal pins using the solder iron to push it along the PCB around the pins and the switch will just drop out.

No offence to any one but the article author did say not advised for your first solder experience, and using solder wick etc would be a veteran solder master trick.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...

john sloan - Responder

Fine multi-strand wire from an old phone extension cable is good as a wick to remove solder - use a tiny amount of flux to help.

Christopher -

An aside to replacing the switches: if you’re having problems with click bounce and a regular contact cleaner isn’t working you could try an oil for electric model train motor commutators: Peco Electrics Power-Lube PL-64 - I picked up a little in a model shop but you can buy it online in the UK for around £6 to £7 for a couple of mL - the key bounce problems have largely disappeared after one or two applications both for my M570s and for an older cordless trackman wheel that I had given up on. If you have one of these it is worth noting that they will run perfectly well on NiMH rechargeable cells whereas the M570 will not. The latter may win out on simple battery life but on the environmental side: using a rechargeable cell should be better in the longer term especially as the grid gets a higher proportion of renewables.

Christopher - Responder

I have done this repair and right click is now stuck

mike osted - Responder

can some one suggest what switch i should i get im disabled with muscular dystrophy and the buttons are really hard so i need some switch that doesn’t take much force to click

raziel2008 - Responder

What is the size of the Phillips screws on the inside? My smallest driver could handle the case screws, but would not seat in the PCB screws. I want to about getting the wrong driver.

Michael Daly - Responder

Successfully replaced the left trackball switch. Thanks Kirill and others for your excellent pics and tutorial!!

Removed the switch in a defunct trackball and used that as a replacement. A light careful touch is needed throughout. Logitech use lead-free solder so it may take some priming with flux and/or leaded solder for the solder wick to suck. I also used my solder sucker to get the last bit of solder out of the 3 pcb switch holes. As someone mentioned, the plastic on/off switch on the underside of the trackball is now in earth orbit - it took off at high speed after it jumped out of my tweezers. All is not lost - there is an easily accessible slide switch underneath the meteoric plastic switch.

John Ess - Responder

John,

Glad it worked out for you! Happy to contribute to this community!

Cheers,

Kirill - Responder

Excellent tutorial, Kirill! One suggestion: where you talk about removing the main button switches, a photo of the bottom of the board, showing where the switch contacts are soldered, would be even more helpful. Thanks for your very clear instructions and sharing your experience!

Ed Eaglehouse - Responder

The original Switch (Omron D2F-01F) and its slightly heavier cousin (Omron D2F-01) are both rated for low voltage/amperage use (100mA max). Because of this, the contacts are plated with gold. The other 2 switches which are mentioned in this article (Omron D2F and C&K ZMCJF7P0T) are meant for switching larger 3A currents. Because of this, their contacts are coated in a silver alloy.

I say all this because the silver alloy can oxidize over time and prevent reliable contact. That alloy depends on the occasional spark from the higher current to “clean” off this oxide ensuring contact can be made. Using a silver alloy in a low current application will not provide this spark and may prematurely fail. Gold, on the other hand, tends to not oxidize and does not require this “cleaning”.

Long story short, I recommend either of the 2 gold plated switches in this application. Use the original (Omron D2F-01F) if you like a lighter button press or the other (Omron D2F-01) if you prefer a heavier button press.

Null Dev - Responder

Many thanks, Kirill for the excellent walk-through. I have about a 7 or 8 year old M570 that began having the sensitivity issue (frequent “accidental” double click). Definitely did not want to junk the entire thing when the rest of it still seems solid.

FWIW, rather than replacing the switches I simply added two layers of clear tape to the bottom of the button. Seems to be working great for now. We’ll see how that fix holds up with use over time.

Cheers

Seneca Maior - Responder

Thank you for the tutorial Kirill and Seneca for this awesome tip. I had the double click issue too and just a bit of sticky tape on the top of the switch seems to have solved the matter. I too wonder how long it will last - my M570 is about 5 years old.

Wajih Hossenally -

I’ve been needing to clean out my trackball for years and finally found this guide it really helped and now the mouse is as good as new.

scf2312 - Responder

The instructions are very easy to follow. The only difficulty was with removing the switches. Even after removing the solder I had to pry the switches out. The circuit board was scratched but thankfully the mouse still works.

Gin - Responder

For what it might be worth, Digikey.com reports the “lifetime” specs, in terms of electrical and mechanical cycles of each recommended switch. The numbers are counter-intuitive: on the face of it, the recommended replacement has less than 1/3 of the expected electrical life of the original, and the rival is half of that.

SwitchID | gramsForce(gf) | Digikey# | ElectricalLife(cycles) | MechanicalLife(cycles)

Recommended | 150 | SW500-ND | 30,000(!) | 1,000,000

“Original” | 75 | SW502-ND | 100,000(!) | 1,000,000

“Rival” | 150 | 401-1742-ND | 15,000(!) | - (not provided)

Sam Shovel - Responder

Omron switches are not available on mouser or digikey, this version is available ZMCJF7P0T

Ace Malik -

....mejor explicado...imposible...! muchas gracias

Garivas Rivas - Responder

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