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O que você precisa
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Remove the eight back screws from the laptop. You will need a P1 screwdriver.
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Grasp the back cover where the hinges are for the display. Pull upwards from the laptop, you will need to use some force the very fist time you open it.
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Remove the 4 screws holding the battery in place. Once removed, pull up on the plastic bar connected to the battery.
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Remove the four screws from the cover. Insert a flathead screwdriver or a razor blade to lift the cover off the plastic nubs that hold it in place.
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Remove the screws from the metal cover, lift away from the fan.
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Remove the two screws from both fans. Disconnect the connectors. Do not pull cooling system away yet.
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Remove your SSD by taking the one screw out. Lift straight up, and the SSD will come out.
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Remove the 8 screws holding the heatsink to the dies. Note that you need to remove the fan covers first.
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Clean these off with a paper towel, and 91% alcohol.
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I used Arctic MX-4 for these step for its thermal properties, and it was hanging around in my desk. You can use any thermal paste that you would like, just use the same process.
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Drop a pea sized drop on each die. As long as your paste is not electrically conductive, do not worry if you put a little too much on.
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You'll know if you have put the right amount of thermal paste if your temperatures are lower/you are not thermal throttling anymore.
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Now that you've added the thermal paste, go back through this guide, retracing your steps until you've completely reasembled your laptop.
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Fire up MSI Afterburner, Intel Extreme Tuning Utility OMEN Command Center, or your favorite monitoring program and check your temps/thermal throttling while gaming.
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Now my temperatures have gone down about 5 degrees centigrade during gaming, and about 10 degrees on idle.
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The biggest improvement is that your OMEN will no longer thermal throttle. I have noticed a 20-40fps improvement in all of the games I play, including Overwatch, H1Z1, League of Legends, Counter-Strike, and BeamNG.Drive.
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17 comentários
A few pointers:
You can ‘pry’ the lower case from the back without moving the hinges. I used a thin philips 2.0 flat head, alternatively you can use a sturdy plastic wedge to help you drive the separation.
You have at least 5 diff types of screws! be sure you sort them well.
You might need to a do a BIOS rebuild as you are removing the battery - for HP it is WINDOWS KEY + B (or V) after you fully power off the machine.
The copper has factory residue spread all over from the thermal paste application they use. clean the copper lines really well with the isoprop 91%.
I use QTips to assist with cleaning the area free of thermal paste
You should prime the area where the copper will receive the bead by dabbing a small amount of the material on it (less than half a grain of rice) and spread it in circular motions into the copper so it goes into all the microscopic groves and makes better contact
I used Kryonaut Thermal Grizzly and effective benchmark temp has been 82C max (intel benchmark) and 46C idle.
Thanks!
I'm thinking of using the conductonaut sometime soon. Anything I need to be aware of careful about?
Rohan -
According to an email I received from HP after requesting the info
“As you requested please go through the link to know more about the heatsink materials and they are mostly made up of aluminum alloys. https://www.abl-heatsinks.co.uk/heatsink... “
So i did it on my hp omen 15 dc1004nc, before CPU throttle all the time while full load and it had 97 - 100C, GPU was arround 85C, i did undervolting on CPU too and in full load CPU has max 92C without throttling and GPU has 70C. In idle it dropped from 51C CPU/ 52 GPU to 42C CPU/ 41 GPU. I used Kryonaut Thermal Grizzly thermal paste so it has purpose to do it.
