Introdução
This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.
Follow this guide to replace the battery on a Google Pixel 4a.
For your safety, discharge your battery below 25% before disassembling your phone.
This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
The unreinforced display panel of the Pixel 4a is fragile. Pay special attention to the warnings in the opening procedure if you are reusing the screen.
O que você precisa
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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM tray hole.
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Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.
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Remove the SIM card tray.
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Take note of the two seams on the edge of the phone:
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Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. This is where you should pry.
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Frame seam: This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover. It is held in place by screws. Do not pry at this seam.
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Before you begin, note the following areas on the screen:
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Screen flex cable: Do not insert the opening pick deeper than instructed or you risk damaging this cable.
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Adhesive perimeter: Prying beyond this narrow perimeter without angling the pick will damage the OLED panel.
Coll down guys and gals.
1) go below the Display and not between the backcover/middle (see the other comments)
2) just take care about the flex/display cable position (which is iirc about on the middle i.e. 2nd 3rd from the bottom ON THE LEFT side dear OP)
Everything else is just separting the glued on Display from the Phone.
See the other comments
Cool down guys and gals.
1) go below the Display and not between the backcover/middle (see the other comments)
2) just take care about the flex/display cable position (which is iirc about on the middle i.e. 2nd 3rd from the bottom ON THE LEFT side dear OP)
Everything else is just separting the glued on Display from the Phone.
See the other comments
I've measured it: The cable starts arround 1.4-1.6 cm from the lower half from the bottom on the left side.
So You can cut the bottom left corner and of course the upper left one but for safety's sake, watch out for the camera.
You can go up to 5cm down from the upper left side till You're near the cable.
When you say left side, is this your left when the phone screen is facing you?
jaunie -
The third image her shows the back of the screen, not the body of the phone
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the display for one minute to soften the adhesive.
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Place a suction cup as close to the right edge of the screen as possible.
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Lift the suction cup with a strong steady force.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the screen seam no more than 1 mm.
It's pretty easy. Insert it just below the screen between the Display and the Display “holder” or mold.
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With the pick 1 mm into the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.
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At a steep angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4 inch (6 mm). The pick should slide in below the OLED panel.
This took me a while, I ended up sharpening the tip of the pick with a razor so I could push it through the seam and slicing a few times, heat->sharpen-> slice until I finally got it to move, and once it slid under carefully heated up areas and sliced with ~2mm of the pick.
This sounds also harder than it is. Push it in 1mm and just lift the other end in a wider angle like 70° degree from the horinzontal position. There “shouldn't” be much you can do wrong. Because except for the Data cable (flex) at a certain position, I can't remeber anything important but isolating tapes that I have scratched.
It's just the Screen glued to the mold. That's it.
Oh, and I wonder here where do You all get such thins plectrums? I have also the flat plastic version and the thin plastic cards but none of them were thin enough for this!!
I ended up using the backside i.e. the dull side of a Razorblade. I didn't saw any alternatives to this. Did You hear this OP?
Any!!
the display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. BE VERY CAREFUL when going around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
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Slide the pick along the right edge of the screen to cut the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
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Insert another opening pick into the right edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.
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Slide the opening pick around the bottom of the phone to cut the adhesive.
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Leave the pick inserted along the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Top and bottom edge adhesive were much stronger than this suggests. Corners were very hard to detach. I killed my screen b/c I cracked it at the top. Worked better with heating around whole perimeter like an iPhone.
WARNING: Be very careful prying the bottom left and right corners! In fact do not insert anything there because there is only a 0.8mm clearance between the screen and the edge, and there's a 0.5mm space between the screen and front glass where if you insert a pick between the screen will crack and break! I had to replace the screen after only doing a battery repair...
Unfortunately I did not properly read the comments here. So for the unafraid people like me:
DO NOT insert something into the bottom right! Especially not like it is shown in the image at this location!
Instead I suggest start releasing the screen from right, then left side, then top and as the last step release the bottom, but start with the left corner. Do not pry too much and use a bit more heat as suggested.
There is a small image of this critical right corner in Step 16 (the part at the top is the display and the left corner at the top is the critical right corner here). You'll see the orange cable in the corner which is easy to damage...
I can second the warnings - especially at the lower corners the OLED screen is extremely sensitive to breaking - as has happened in my attempt when inserting the pick 2 mm.
The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
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Insert another opening pick into the bottom edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.
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Use the pick to slice through the left edge of the phone.
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Leave the pick inserted along the left edge of the phone to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
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Insert another opening pick into the left edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.
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Slide the pick around the top edge of the phone to cut the adhesive.
The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. Be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
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Lift from the top edge and swing the screen over the bottom edge until you can rest it glass-side down.
FR : Précision : La nappe a un bout d'adhésif sur la structure du téléphone, il faut bien faire attention de le décoller. Je viens de tuer la nappe de mon écran qui était fonctionnel...
EN : Advice : The ribbon cable is fixed to the structure with a small piece of adhesive. It should be remove prior to anything else. I just killed the ribbon cable of my perfectly used to work screen...
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Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel up the black tape covering the screen connector bracket.
Interestingly this tape was missing in my phone. Maybe that explains some of the display issues I occasionally had, like a thin green line on the right side of the screen which could be "pushed" away.
I think I ripped off the cable because it is undistinguishable from the tape! How screwed am I?
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the screen connector bracket.
A T4 driver worked for me here.
It is definitely a T4.
Funny ... For me, it was T3. The screws must vary across different phones
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.
No, why the tip? Use the other flat side that doesn't concetrate all the power on one point and Youre doing a propper job.
Only the tip is needed to lift a bit one of the sides and it will pop out. No pressure/power!
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Remove the screen.
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Check if your replacement screen has speaker mesh and top edge adhesive pre-installed.
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If it does, you won't need the top edge adhesive.
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If it doesn't, remove the larger clear liner from the top edge adhesive and apply it to the screen (not the frame). Make sure the larger cutout lines up with the speaker mesh.
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Follow this guide to apply the custom-cut adhesive.
This step seems to imply that a screen replacement is necessary when replacing the charging port. Is the charging port replaceable without replacing the screen? I understand great care must be taken not to damage the original screen in the procedure, but can it be reinstalled?
Yes, it can be reinstalled.
Just a heads up: If you are like me and you have accidentally turned on your Pixel 4a at some point while trying to pry the screen, don't worry too much. I was able to just connect my display with the device on. Nothing will happen until you reboot, and then the screen will initialize.
It would help to add that the new screen is reattached after adding glue to phone body, not the screen. With the iFixit screen adhesive pieces, a guide to which piece goes where would help also. For that I used this picture: Google Pixel 4a Display Adhesive - Genuine. Yet that is not enough as there is a cover for (speaker?) which is not clear how to apply that.
The repair kit comes with Google Pixel 4a Display Adhesive - Genuine but there is no guide on how to apply that adhesive. I sent an email, but Ifixit won't make an instruction page for this.
To explain how the adhesive sold by iFixit works, the actual adhesive is the black strip which is held between two pieces of plastic. Line up the pieces with the clear plastic side down. Note that some pieces may be stuck in the box they came in, the plastic is staticky. I recommend that before attaching the new screen you put each piece in place. Remove the clear plastic and place the pieces in place with the colored plastic facing up. The goal is to have the black adhesive strip on the little ledge between the edge and the depression inside the phone. It's the place where you hopefully spent time cleaning out the original adhesive. Place the corners first, then the edges. Press them into place carefully. Before removing the colored plastic attach the phone screen cable and secure it. REMEMBER TO PLACE THE ELECTRICAL TAPE OVER THE CONNECTOR (I forgot to). Then remove the colored plastic, leaving behind the adhesive, and push the screen into place.
Of note: the seal peace at the top goes under the speaker screen, and the seal looks at first like it is reversed. To install that one accurately adhere it to the Screen itself not the body of the phone. align it where there is a see through circle along the seam and a hole in the adhesive. the sealant should run below the speaker screen. When readhering the screen to the body, remove the plastic guides around the body, then last the seal on the screen and align and install.
Super, c'est vraiment à la portée de tout le monde, il faut juste un peu de patience et d'audace.
Je viens de réussir le remplacement de mon écran et c'est impec !
Il n'y a que sur la première partie, où il faut insérer le médiateur, que ça a été compliqué pour moi. Impossible de l'insérer du côté des boutons (à droite donc), par contre quand je me suis décidée à tester en passant par l'autre côté, c'est venu tout seul.
Aussi il m'a fallu un certain temps pour comprendre que sur les adhésifs, seul le trait noir colle, et c'est donc à lui qu'il faut faire attention.
Pensez à vérifier que l'écran est fonctionnel avant de le recoller, à mon premier essai la nappe n'était pas bien insérée et j'ai du recommencer l'insertion. Voila, prendre son temps et vérifier que tout va bien à chaque étape et c'est très facile. J'ai mis un peu moins d'une heure.
After I clipped the screen in place, I realized that I had forgotten to reattach the screen bracket from step 14. Do you think this is dangerous? Can anyone assess this? In any case, the smartphone turns on and actually makes a good impression.
Many thanks in advance for your assessment!
Kind regards
Tom
Just some advice before you install the screen regarding the earphone grille/mesh at the top.
Something I experienced, was that the speaker grille did not end up being seated quite right when the phone display was stuck down. It is slightly bent, and the top edge is stuck out at a slight angle - it is quite sharp and does not take much to catch a finger on it, when the phone is out of a protective case.
I think this was because I laid the screen in, starting from the top and with it up at quite a steep angle, then working from top to bottom. I would suggest that when setting the new display within the device, that you align the bottom edge first instead.
I am not going to risk lifting the new display to try and re-seat this grille properly, the display cost me a bloody fortune (around 58% of the phone's original price) and I am not risking breaking it over something as minor as that.
nb. I definitely removed all the coloured plastic protective pieces before installing the new screen into the phone.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.3 mm screws securing the back cover to the midframe.
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Insert an opening pick into the seam between the midframe and the back cover.
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Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the seven screws securing the motherboard bracket:
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Three 2.9 mm-long black screws
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Three 2 mm-long screws
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One 4.1 mm-long screw
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Use the tip of a spudger to unclip the motherboard bracket from the upper-right and lower-right corners of the motherboard.
on mine, the fingerprint sensor cable was lightly adherent to the bracket and I almost tore it when the bracket popped up. may want to add something about freeing this up before removing the bracket.
Similar to Erik, my fingerprint sensor cable was adhered to the bracket and mine did tear. I didn't use the fingerprint sensor, so hopefully this doesn't affect anything else with the phone. Now I know to read the comments! X_X
I had the same issues: The cable was attached to the bracket and I had to be very careful in pushing the bracket to the side and reach under it with the spudger to detach the fingerprint cable. And I also found the top clip of the bracket hard to unclip. It worked when I started with the lower one and then pushed the bracket to the side a bit. It seemed to be glued on the top corner.
My fingerprint sensor cable was also glued to the bracket, but it seems like a sturdy cable so was not easily damaged
Ok this was really bad for me I did not understand how the clip was oriented and tried to pull it up lightly first and then strongly, it finally came off but I bent and broke the bridge just a bit, and most importantly the RFID or fingerprint sensor cable (the circle in the back). I don't use it and nothing more was harmed managed to put everything back in place but
Beware of the clips, you have to pull them TOWARDS you, then the bridge will pop-up, don't apply strength upwards before unclicking the 2 clicks towards you (horizontal plane)this is the most frustrating step in the entire guide. i used tweezers and pushed to the left of the upper bracket to free it. no upward force is required to free it. be careful
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery cable.
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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the two flex cables connecting the fingerprint sensor and buttons to the motherboard.
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Flip the midframe over.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two pieces of black tape covering the battery adhesive pull tabs.
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Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the phone.
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Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the midframe. For best results, pull the strip at as low an angle as possible.
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If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, apply a few drops of 90% isopropyl alcohol into the opening of the affected tab and tilt the phone towards the top edge so that the alcohol flows toward the remaining adhesive. Wait one minute for the adhesive to soften, then proceed to the next step.
Both tapes tore for me after having removed about half of them - they are extremely long. Maybe winding them around a pencil might work better. I had to drop some isopropanol (about 5 drops each) into the holes which worked fine to loosen the remaining adhesive.
I've replaced batteries on 6-7 devices before (4 different types of phone). The tabs have ALWAYS broken partway. And for most they broke under the battery and I had to resort to alcohol to remove. These were the first that came out easily without breakage. They seemed less fragile than past ones. Kudos to Google. :-P
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Remove the battery.
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Once you have allowed one minute for the alcohol to soften the adhesive, use an opening pick to pry up the battery from one of the long edges.
As the previous commenter suggested, please write instructions for reassembly.
I was thinking the same about the adhesive part… how do you reapply adhesive and the tabs removed? Do we need new adhesive tabs?
I found a lot of the adhesive remained on the body after removing the strips. I don't know if this is because my battery was swollen and overheating, but I'd expect many people reading this may be in the same situation.
I was eventually able to figure out re-attache the battery and screen, but as the other commenters have suggested a brief explanation of how to do this would be very helpful.
Otherwise it was a grate guide!
Another vote for reassembly. There are a lot of adhesive bits with a blue backing which I'm pretty sure are for attaching the screen, but one appears to be a pull tab for the battery (but only 1 not 2). There's also a long strip with a red backing. I have no idea where that one would go. Finally, one of the screen adhesives stuck to the inside of the box so it's unusable now.
I just used double sided tape to secure my new battery. just make sure you do a gravity test to make sure it doesn't fall out and shake it around a bit too if you want. read alot of other posts online of people who did the same. ill post back here if something happens but i think it should work fine
As others commented, a brief explanation of applying the new tabs would be nice.
But, to help you out...the adhesive strips are "keyed". There's a notch in the corner of the black pull tab part for each of them. Line them up so the black pull tab would align with the hole that you pull them through. When you've found that orientation, remove the backing on the side that will stick to the case and put it in (aligning the pull tab first). Also, to make it easier, only peel back a little of the thicker plastic to start and peel the rest as you place it down to prevent it from sticking unaligned. You ideally don't want any wrinkles else it will make it break if you remove it later.
Mine also came adhered to the box and were unusable. If this happened to you, contact ifixit and let them know and they'll ship you what you need. Be sure to tell them if both the battery adhesive and screen adhesive was affected so they send both if you need both. There should be two battery tabs (they're different sized near the top).
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To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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30 comentários
Do you stock the 4A and 4A 5G batteries? my local repair shops will not just sell me the battery.
Tricky. I don't suggest sweating to save the pieces of tape. Just attach new tape for the battery.
T3 Tip on my kit worked, don't know why it didn't for previous commentor.
Hello Azrael, as noted in the parts section of this guide, you will need Battery Adhesive Strips and Display Adhesive. Both are included in the Google Pixel 4a Battery Fix Kit and available in the iFixit US and EU store.
Thanks.
Do you think using a hair dryer to remove the screen would be better? Or a temperature controlled heat pad? The feedback I read online about the iOpener seems kinda annoying to use.
Azrael -
The iOpener is a good option for most people to make sure to apply heat precisely while making sure to not overheat the device. If you already have a heating mat, that would probably be the best option for controlled heating. A hair dryer should also work quite well, but be careful to avoid overheating.
Thanks! Any idea how easy it is to damage the speaker grills? I saw that the kit has them.
Azrael -
See the following note on step 9: "There's a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, take care not to damage or lose this component." You should be careful during the opening procedure, but I'd assume you can reuse it after the repair.
I saw the note, which was why I asked, From experience with certain electronics, there are some components that have an extremely high rate of breaking once you remove it, so was wondering if you had any experience to share.
Azrael -
I don't have hands-on experience with the Pixel 4a, so I'm unable to give a definitive answer, sorry!
Ah, thanks for your help either way!
Azrael -
Unfortunately, my screen cracked a whole bunch from the bottom right corner as I was doing step 6 so I gave up there. There could have been some invisible chips or cracks there already that created a weakness or maybe I just wasn't doing it right. Disappointed, but the kit does seem to be fully featured.
After finishing the Battery replacement the screen stayed black, it just vibrates short when pressing the power button. charging seems to work since it gets warm. Display did not get damaged when opening, also there was no obvious damages in the areas with the cables.
Any idea what could be the reason for this?
I'm having the same problem. I also see my phone on my wifi network so it does turn on and connect. I just get a black screen though. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Same problem here, Kai and Brian. Can I ask what you did to resolve it?
Same problem here. Have you solved it by now?
FAILED. Phone vibrates once when I try to turn it on. Display stays black
I had significant difficulty with the battery adhesive tabs just not pulling away. If you remove the large black piece of tape on the back of the metal midframe it will expose more of the back of the battery. There is a cutout which runs parallel to the two lines of adhesive. I used goo gone and very light cyclic pressure to gently weaken the adhesive strips and ultimately remove the battery.
So this is probably the first time i fcked up my own phones screen. The display flex is directly on the bottom of the phone. be very careful when goign around the bottom to not hit the display flex!!!
I would guess that this is why the blacksreens are appearing.
sadly I am also the one failed. The screen stays black without any cracks or other visible damage
Would absolutely not recommend this for beginners, even if you have experience tinkering with PC hardware. Just destroyed my phone by ripping off the screen connector cable, also the display is super sensitive to cracks once it is disassembled.
