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Introdução

Follow this guide to remove and replace a broken or cracked screen on the Pixel 3. This procedure is for replacement screens that are not pre-mounted onto a frame. Due to the Pixel’s design, this requires removing the motherboard in order to access to the screen connectors.

This procedure will destructively remove the Pixel 3’s screen. OLEDs cease to work when exposed to oxygen or moisture, and are thus sealed in an airtight encapsulation (this is also why OLED panels turn black underneath a screen crack). It is very difficult to replace the front glass alone— the Pixel’s OLED layers are laminated to the glass.

  1. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom of the phone for one minute. When prying above the power button, be careful not to insert the pick too deeply, or you will damage the fingerprint sensor cable.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom of the phone for one minute.

    • When prying above the power button, be careful not to insert the pick too deeply, or you will damage the fingerprint sensor cable.

  2. Apply a suction cup to the heated bottom edge of the phone. If your back cover is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Lift on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
    • Apply a suction cup to the heated bottom edge of the phone.

    • If your back cover is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere.

    • Lift on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.

    • Depending on how aged your phone is, this may take significant force. If you are having trouble, apply more heat and try again.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    The initial opening/insert is the hardest part of this repair, and if you end up having to use a flat-head screwdriver (etc) to get the first gap opened, you’ll scratch the phone. But it works.

    William Kew - Responder

    I don’t recommend using a screwdriver. I tried this and it shattered the glass in that area. I replaced the battery on my Pixel 1 recently and noted that heating the FRONT glass on that phone enough to get a gap for one of the pics takes a considerable amount of time AND patience. I was one of the few who didn’t break or otherwise damage the glass in that process. I would say the same rule applies here. Allow for significant time and patiences to heat the old adhesive enough to get a pick inside the cover.

    kevlion88 - Responder

    Definitely, this opening/insert is the hardest part of the procedure. I was unable to open even a slight separation with a suction cup and even with tons of heat from a hair dryer. What worked really well, and what I would highly recommend to others who experience really strong adhesive, is to use a small X-acto knife with a #16 blade. Make sure it’s a #16 (find on Amazon) because it differs greatly in angle and rigidity from the usual #11 blade. The sharpness of the blade makes it really easy to find the crack and open a gap, where you can then insert a pick with no problem.

    Andris Vizulis - Responder

    I gave up with the iOpener and pick, I tried >5 times for over an hour… After heating with theiOpener, I used and X-acto knife instead and that worked like a charm, except it did leave a few scuff marks unfortunatly. I used a size 22 blade.

    Manny - Responder

    I really wanted to level off the back of the phone when pulling on the suction cup in this step, but found it was actually pretty easy once I used the opening tool to push down on the edge of the bezel, at the crack, barely putting any force on the back of the phone at all (just to keep it steady).

    Eugene Creswick - Responder

    I have about a 2 year old Pixel 3. iOpener didn’t work at all on this step, but once I broke out the hair dryer, I was able to get the phone hot enough to insert the pick (no screwdriver or xacto knife needed)

    sliverdragon37 - Responder

    I’m having trouble with the iOpener too. It is frustrating because I practiced on a bricked iPhone earlier this week and it was effortless. My Pixel 3 is also about 2 years old. Out of curiosity, were you replacing the charging assembly because of the charging cables fitting too loosely on the phone or for some other reason?

    Edwin -

    I used a stanley knive to get started and then a combo of opener and plektrums.

    All went well till I used to much force on the camera corner and broke the back into lots of small pieces. Be careful on that corner, people.

    But the new camera does focus, so for a first attempt at fixing a phone I am happy.

    clas ebeling - Responder

  3. Slice the adhesive along the bottom edge of the phone and around the right corner. Leave a pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing. Leave a pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
    • Slice the adhesive along the bottom edge of the phone and around the right corner.

    • Leave a pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  4. Heat the right edge with an iOpener and continue slicing the adhesive with an opening pick. The adhesive can be very gummy. Push the pick in and out in a sawing motion to help with slicing. The adhesive can be very gummy. Push the pick in and out in a sawing motion to help with slicing.
    • Heat the right edge with an iOpener and continue slicing the adhesive with an opening pick.

    • The adhesive can be very gummy. Push the pick in and out in a sawing motion to help with slicing.

  5. Continue heating and slicing through the rest of the phone perimeter. Leave a pick in each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing. When slicing above the power button, do not insert the pick more than halfway in to avoid damaging the fingerprint sensor cable. When slicing above the power button, do not insert the pick more than halfway in to avoid damaging the fingerprint sensor cable.
    • Continue heating and slicing through the rest of the phone perimeter. Leave a pick in each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

    • When slicing above the power button, do not insert the pick more than halfway in to avoid damaging the fingerprint sensor cable.

  6. Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the left edge of the back cover. Do not attempt to remove the back cover. It is still attached to the phone by the fingerprint sensor cable. Flip the back cover along its long axis and rest it so that the fingerprint sensor cable is not strained.
    • Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the left edge of the back cover.

    • Do not attempt to remove the back cover. It is still attached to the phone by the fingerprint sensor cable.

    • Flip the back cover along its long axis and rest it so that the fingerprint sensor cable is not strained.

  7. Remove the two 4.1 mm long Phillips screws securing the fingerprint connector bracket.
    • Remove the two 4.1 mm long Phillips screws securing the fingerprint connector bracket.

    • During reassembly, be careful not to over-tighten these screws, or you may damage your display.

    A magnetic screwdriver tip helped here.

    Ciprian Chelba - Responder

  8. Use the point of a spudger to slide the fingerprint connector bracket out from under the NFC coil. Remove the fingerprint connector bracket. Remove the fingerprint connector bracket.
    • Use the point of a spudger to slide the fingerprint connector bracket out from under the NFC coil.

    • Remove the fingerprint connector bracket.

    Re-inserting this is tricky and requires pretty good dexterity. The shiny metal frame of the wireless charger is also not held down, so you may wish to gently apply pressure to it as you try to re-position the connector bracket.

    William Kew - Responder

  9. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the fingerprint connector from its socket. When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the fingerprint connector from its socket.

    • When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

  10. Remove the back cover. Before you install a replacement back cover, be sure to remove all adhesive residue from the phone frame. Use an opening tool to scrape and high concentration isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface. If you are re-using the back cover, be sure to clean off any adhesive, and apply new back cover adhesive.
    • Remove the back cover.

    • Before you install a replacement back cover, be sure to remove all adhesive residue from the phone frame. Use an opening tool to scrape and high concentration isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface.

    • If you are re-using the back cover, be sure to clean off any adhesive, and apply new back cover adhesive.

    • If you are installing a replacement back cover, be sure compare it with the original part. Transfer any remaining parts (such as the flash diffuser) over to your replacement part.

    is new adhesive required to reassemble, or is it reuseable?

    Campbell Wright - Responder

    Hi Campbell,

    If the adhesive is in decent condition, you can try to re-use the adhesive. Squeeze the back cover along the perimeter, and heat it with a hair dryer to help the adhesive re-bond. Note that there is a chance that the back cover may fall off when you reuse the adhesive.

    Arthur Shi -

    When reassembling is it better to first attach the new adhesive back gasket to the phone back or the phone chassis frame?

    Tom Burke - Responder

    Hi Tom!

    It depends on the adhesive. Carefully align the adhesive to the phone by matching the contours. Note which adhesive side is backed by a clear liner, and which side is backed by a colored liner. The clear liner should be removed first. Whichever component the exposed adhesive faces should be the first surface to apply to.

    Hope that helps!

    Arthur Shi -

  11. Remove the five Phillips screws securing the wireless charging coil: Two 1.9 mm screws Two 4.2 mm screws
    • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the wireless charging coil:

    • Two 1.9 mm screws

    • Two 4.2 mm screws

    • One 4.3 mm screw

    • Remove the wireless charging coil.

  12. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its socket near the right edge of the phone. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its socket near the right edge of the phone.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its socket near the right edge of the phone.

    The connecton board is quete flexible … be careful otherwise other connectors may get looze.

    This is also valid when re-assemble … pusing battery conector may cause other conectors to “pop“.

    Tsanko Tsolov - Responder

  13. Remove the two screws securing the camera bracket: One 4.1 mm Phillips screw
    • Remove the two screws securing the camera bracket:

    • One 4.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 4 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff bit. In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    • Remove the camera bracket.

  14. If you are replacing front-facing cameras, determine which one you need to replace:
    • If you are replacing front-facing cameras, determine which one you need to replace:

    • Normal view camera

    • Wide-angle camera

    • If you are doing the motherboard removal procedure, you will need to remove both cameras.

    I actually didn't have to remove the cameras to get my motherboard out and back in, just pushed the connectors out of the way. It's probably less hassle prying them up as directed than wiggling the board back under two extra connectors when re-assembling as I did :)

    elyze - Responder

    Make sure that the cameras each go in exactly the same spots or not the phone will boot loop forever. The connectors on both of these cameras are the same, so they will easily connect on both sides. So be careful.

    Let's Talk Tech - Responder

  15. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the connector for the camera(s) you are replacing. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the connector for the camera(s) you are replacing. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the connector for the camera(s) you are replacing.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the connector for the camera(s) you are replacing.

  16. OPEN ALL THE TABS

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  17. The cameras are held in place with adhesive. Insert the point of a spudger behind the edge of the camera module and pry up to loosen it from the frame.
    • The cameras are held in place with adhesive.

    • Insert the point of a spudger behind the edge of the camera module and pry up to loosen it from the frame.

    • Remove the camera(s).

    • If the adhesive holding the camera module is in good condition, you can re-use the adhesive. Otherwise, replace the adhesive with double-sided Tesa tape.

    • When installing a replacement camera module, make sure that the phone frame lens are free of adhesive residue or debris.

  18. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the loudspeaker connector from its motherboard socket near the right edge of the phone. Be careful not to puncture the battery with the spudger.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the loudspeaker connector from its motherboard socket near the right edge of the phone.

    • Be careful not to puncture the battery with the spudger.

  19. Remove the following four Phillips screws: One 1.9 mm screw One 4.3 mm screw
    • Remove the following four Phillips screws:

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 4.3 mm screw

    • Two 4.3 mm screws with thinner shanks

    • Remove the tiny grounding clip from the left screw hole. Be careful not to lose it.

    • The grounding clip installs such that the contoured edge faces the left side of the phone.

    • Remove the small plastic insert from the right side of the USB-C port.

    • Be sure to reinstall this insert before you screw down the daughterboard.

    The three 4.3 mm screws highlighted in Orange are not all the same. The one closest to the battery is slightly different, a larger diameter. It would be good to note this for reassembly.

    genec123 - Responder

    Thank you! I will adjust the guide to reflect this!

    Arthur Shi -

    Ah, all great and everything but this should be in big bold red letters: “Be sure to reinstall this insert before you screw down the daughterboard.“

    Screwed 4.3 thin screw without that small insert and penetrated new screen module behind…

    Maks - Responder

    Noted and changed!

    Arthur Shi -

  20. The loudspeaker is still held in place by a strong adhesive gasket. Before attempting to remove it, pry it up in a few different places to break the adhesive seal. Insert the point of a spudger under the bottom right corner of the loudspeaker.
    • The loudspeaker is still held in place by a strong adhesive gasket. Before attempting to remove it, pry it up in a few different places to break the adhesive seal.

    • Insert the point of a spudger under the bottom right corner of the loudspeaker.

    • Pry up to loosen the loudspeaker from the phone.

  21. Insert the point of a spudger under the top left corner of the loudspeaker. Be careful not to puncture the battery with the spudger.
    • Insert the point of a spudger under the top left corner of the loudspeaker.

    • Be careful not to puncture the battery with the spudger.

    • Pry up to loosen the loudspeaker.

  22. Insert the flat end of the spudger under the top edge of the loudspeaker, towards the left edge. Pry up to loosen the loudspeaker.
    • Insert the flat end of the spudger under the top edge of the loudspeaker, towards the left edge.

    • Pry up to loosen the loudspeaker.

  23. Remove the loudspeaker. Before you install a replacement loudspeaker, check the adhesive gasket.
    • Remove the loudspeaker.

    • Before you install a replacement loudspeaker, check the adhesive gasket.

    • If it is in good condition, you can re-use the gasket. Make sure that the gasket does not cover the exit hole.

    • If the gasket is pulled out of place, remove it and replace the adhesive with a pre-cut strip or Tesa tape.

  24. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the blue antenna cable from its socket on the charging assembly. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the blue antenna cable from its socket on the charging assembly.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the blue antenna cable from its socket on the charging assembly.

  25. Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and release the blue antenna cable from its grounding clips. The cable is fragile and prone to breaking. If it feels like the wire is firmly clamped in place, use the point of a spudger to push the clip open slightly, then try again.
    • Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and release the blue antenna cable from its grounding clips.

    • The cable is fragile and prone to breaking. If it feels like the wire is firmly clamped in place, use the point of a spudger to push the clip open slightly, then try again.

  26. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the black antenna cable from its socket near the USB-C port. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the black antenna cable from its socket near the USB-C port.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the black antenna cable from its socket near the USB-C port.

  27. Carefully de-route both antenna cables and move them away from the charging assembly.
    • Carefully de-route both antenna cables and move them away from the charging assembly.

  28. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the charging assembly's connector from its motherboard socket, near the right edge of the phone. Carefully peel the flex cable from the top of the SIM card reader. Carefully peel the flex cable from the top of the SIM card reader.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the charging assembly's connector from its motherboard socket, near the right edge of the phone.

    • Carefully peel the flex cable from the top of the SIM card reader.

  29. Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry up the black tape holding the display flex cable in place, near the right edge of the phone.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry up the black tape holding the display flex cable in place, near the right edge of the phone.

    • Do not use metal tools to pry, or you may damage the flex cable.

  30. Whenever you use the spudger near the battery, be very careful not to puncture the battery. Slide the point of a spudger in the crevice underneath the black tape bridging across the battery and the motherboard. Slide the spudger along the crevice to pry up the tape from the battery side.
    • Whenever you use the spudger near the battery, be very careful not to puncture the battery.

    • Slide the point of a spudger in the crevice underneath the black tape bridging across the battery and the motherboard.

    • Slide the spudger along the crevice to pry up the tape from the battery side.

    • Carefully peel the tape from the battery and fold it out of the way.

  31. Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the following seven press-fit connectors from their motherboard sockets: External buttons connector
    • Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the following seven press-fit connectors from their motherboard sockets:

    • External buttons connector

    • Top microphone connector

    • Earpiece connector

    • Left squeeze sensor connector

    • Screen connector

    • Right squeeze sensor connector

    • SIM tray connector

  32. Use the flat of a spudger to carefully pry up and bend the earpiece speaker's flex cable upwards, out of the way of the motherboard.
    • Use the flat of a spudger to carefully pry up and bend the earpiece speaker's flex cable upwards, out of the way of the motherboard.

  33. Some of these screws hold very small grounding clips in place. Be careful not to lose these clips as you remove the screws. Remove the six screws securing the motherboard in place:
    • Some of these screws hold very small grounding clips in place. Be careful not to lose these clips as you remove the screws.

    • Remove the six screws securing the motherboard in place:

    • One 4.2 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 1.9 mm Phillips screws

    • One 4.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.83 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff bit. In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    • Remove and retain the three small metal grounding clips.

  34. Carefully remove the antenna bracket from the top left edge of the phone. To reinstall the small metal grounding clips: Orient the clips such that the silver side is facing upwards.
    • Carefully remove the antenna bracket from the top left edge of the phone.

    • To reinstall the small metal grounding clips:

    • Orient the clips such that the silver side is facing upwards.

    • The teardrop shaped clips should have their points facing towards the phone edge.

    • The double-holed clip dips downwards towards the frame's top-right screw hole.

  35. Insert the point of a spudger near the top left corner of the motherboard, right below the rear-facing camera. Pry up gently to loosen the motherboard, bending all flex cables away to accommodate for the movement.
    • Insert the point of a spudger near the top left corner of the motherboard, right below the rear-facing camera.

    • Pry up gently to loosen the motherboard, bending all flex cables away to accommodate for the movement.

    • If the motherboard feels firmly seated, check for any flex cables or screws that may still be connected.

  36. Insert the spudger underneath the top edge of the motherboard and carefully pry up to loosen the motherboard. The earpiece speaker's flex cable will press tightly against the motherboard. Take your time and carefully guide the motherboard around the flex cable.
    • Insert the spudger underneath the top edge of the motherboard and carefully pry up to loosen the motherboard.

    • The earpiece speaker's flex cable will press tightly against the motherboard. Take your time and carefully guide the motherboard around the flex cable.

    Make sure the ambient sensor is disconnected right underneath the flash!

    jrancanoarias - Responder

  37. Lift the left edge of the motherboard and carefully swing upwards it towards the right. Carefully push any press connectors snagging the motherboard out of the way. Lift the left edge of the motherboard and carefully swing upwards it towards the right. Carefully push any press connectors snagging the motherboard out of the way.
    • Lift the left edge of the motherboard and carefully swing upwards it towards the right. Carefully push any press connectors snagging the motherboard out of the way.

  38. Carefully lift the top end of the motherboard away from the frame. Remove the motherboard. When you reinstall the motherboard, be careful not to trap any flex cable connectors underneath it.
    • Carefully lift the top end of the motherboard away from the frame.

    • Remove the motherboard.

    • When you reinstall the motherboard, be careful not to trap any flex cable connectors underneath it.

    • It may be difficult to reposition the motherboard around the earpiece flex cable. You can gently pry up the earpiece speaker, install the motherboard, and reinstall the earpiece speaker.

  39. Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for a minute. Place a suction cup near the bottom edge of the screen, near the USB-C port. Lift on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
    • Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for a minute.

    • Place a suction cup near the bottom edge of the screen, near the USB-C port.

    • Lift on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.

    • Depending on how aged your phone is, this may take significant force. If you are having trouble, apply more heat and try again.

    • You can also try heating and pulling up a long edge of the phone to gain access.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

  40. Slide the pick along the bezel to slice through the adhesive. Slide the pick along the bezel to slice through the adhesive.
    • Slide the pick along the bezel to slice through the adhesive.

  41. Continue heating edges with an iOpener and slicing the adhesive with an opening pick, until you've sliced through all of the adhesive. Continue heating edges with an iOpener and slicing the adhesive with an opening pick, until you've sliced through all of the adhesive.
    • Continue heating edges with an iOpener and slicing the adhesive with an opening pick, until you've sliced through all of the adhesive.

  42. Lift up and remove the front glass from the phone. Lift up and remove the front glass from the phone.
    • Lift up and remove the front glass from the phone.

  43. The remaining part of the screen is affixed to the phone frame by a large patch of adhesive. Insert an opening pick into the seam between the phone frame and the bottom edge of the screen remains. Pry along the edge to loosen the screen from the frame.
    • The remaining part of the screen is affixed to the phone frame by a large patch of adhesive.

    • Insert an opening pick into the seam between the phone frame and the bottom edge of the screen remains.

    • Pry along the edge to loosen the screen from the frame.

    • If you are having trouble, apply a heated iOpener over the screen to help loosen the adhesive.

  44. Continue applying heat and slicing along a screen edge until you've loosened enough material to be grasped with your fingers. Grasp the edge with your fingers and slowly pull the screen remains away from the phone frame. Grasp the edge with your fingers and slowly pull the screen remains away from the phone frame.
    • Continue applying heat and slicing along a screen edge until you've loosened enough material to be grasped with your fingers.

    • Grasp the edge with your fingers and slowly pull the screen remains away from the phone frame.

  45. Thread the screen cable and digitizer cable out of their cutouts. Remove the screen. To install a replacement screen:
    • Thread the screen cable and digitizer cable out of their cutouts.

    • Remove the screen.

    • To install a replacement screen:

    • Clean all adhesive residue from the phone frame. Adhesive that's left behind may apply uneven pressure against the replacement screen and potentially damage it.

    • Apply a pre-cut adhesive, or double-sided tape to the phone frame's perimeter.

    • Peel all plastic liners from the back of the replacement screen to expose the adhesive.

    • Carefully thread the screen cable and the digitizer cable through the phone frame's cutouts.

    • Lay the screen onto the frame and place some books on top for an hour to help the screen adhesive bond to the frame.

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Google Pixel 3 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

15 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Arthur Shi

Membro desde: 03/01/2018

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To change only the screen glass… Do you have to disassemble the whole phone or just steps 39 to 42?

Thanks

Adrián García Estaún - Responder

Hi Adrián,

The OLED is bonded to the screen glass. Unlike LCDs, trying to remove the glass only will most likely destroy the OLED screen.

Arthur Shi -

How to differentiate between a pre-mounted and a non pre-mounted display? I don’t want to order the wrong part, hence the question.

Sid Mankad - Responder

The pre-mounted part will come with the frame, which is the majority of the phone body. The screen is already stuck affixed to the frame, but you would have to transfer everything else onto it. The display only part looks like a thin panel with adhesive on the back. It would look like this part.

Arthur Shi -

When buying a replacement screen do I need to buy it with a frame?

Abby Andam - Responder

This guide is meant to be used with replacement screens without frames. If you buy a screen with a frame, you will have to transfer many components from your existing frame onto the new one.

Arthur Shi -

My Pixel 3 has a broken screen and also the touchscreen is not working (well, only for half the screen; the top half works just fine, the bottom half does not). Will this guide and replacement parts also fix the touchscreen functionality?

Ball Dude - Responder

This guide should resolve any issues with the screen, which includes touch functionality.

Arthur Shi -

Also, only because the part in iFixit is out of stock, is this the same part?

https://www.amazon.com/ePartSolution_-Di...

Ball Dude - Responder

Unfortunately, this is not the same part we sell. Like many aftermarket screens for the Pixel, the linked part uses a cheaper LCD panel, while the original Pixel has an OLED. The part may install properly, but the image quality will be different.

Arthur Shi -

Hi again @arthurshi . Following up on my comment from Dec 2. I bought the tools and replacement screen, and performed the repair yesterday. Thanks for the guide!

Everything seemed to go alright… but sadly, the touchscreen functionality remains broken. I installed the new screen. The phone turns on and the screen turns on just fine, but it does not respond to my touch :(

Do you think then that the motherboard’s circuitry for the touchscreen is broken? Or is it more likely that I didn’t connect one of the two screen connectors (I believe the large one is for the display, and the small one for the touch)? Anything I can do to debug/test where the problem is?

Any help is much appreciated. And thanks again for the very useful guide! Even if things don’t end up working, I still learned a lot!

Ball Dude - Responder

Hey @balldude,

You are right in that one connector is for the screen, and one is for the touch (digitizer). Both must be connected in order for both screen and digitizer to function. The press-fit connectors contain very small contacts. Any small amount of dirt/finger oils on the contacts may cause issues. You can clean them by wiping with lint-free cloth and isopropyl alcohol.

If the screen still won’t respond to touch after that, it may be that the circuitry responsible for the digitizer is broken on the logic board.

Arthur Shi -

Hey, did you try what arthurshi advise and if so did it work. I am also having the same issue and I would hate to buy a new motherboard. Thank in advance.

José Alberto Garcia -

Hi Jose.

I tried reattaching the connectors a few times and testing it out. I couldn’t get it to work, unfortunately. I ended up buying a new Pixel 4 and sending in the Pixel 3 to Google as a trade-in, for which I received $105.

Hope that helps, and good luck!

Ball Dude -

Can you buy just the bezel or do you need a new frame

S Lee - Responder

Hi to be more in depth the problem I been having is that when I took the screen of my pixel 3 there was a piece of flashing(not sure the proper turn that came off with screen it was glued down to mid frame and the screen is supposed to sit in it. Can you buy this part or do you have to buy a whole new mid frame ? Thank you for your time and all your guides they have been very helpful to me.

S Lee - Responder

Hi S Lee,

Are you speaking of the part shown in step 44? If so, that is part of the display panel. It should be fully removed before you install a replacement screen.

Arthur Shi -

Do NOT follow the author's advice to just “bend up the earpiece speaker flex”. This might work fine enough for board removal, but going backwards, you will likely rip the flex trying to jimmy it back in place. The flex is like plasticated paper ribbon. Just remove the earpiece speaker before you reassemble, and place it in its spot after you put the board back in.

Sarah Wreisner - Responder

Ps. The plastic insert in step 19 should be given a bit more attention. If you forget to reinstall this plastic insert, the screw that you replace in that spot will instatly ruin your lcd - no matter how gently you screw it in. You'll be left with a green or pink line through your lcd. It seems worth mentioning, as I have seen this before.

Sarah Wreisner - Responder

Hi Sarah!

Thanks for the suggestions! I will make a note of that and your comment above in the relevant steps.

Arthur Shi -

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