Dell XPS 15 9575 I/O Board Replacement

Introdução

This guide shows how to remove and replace the I/O board of your Dell XPS 15 9575. Before you begin this repair, turn off your laptop and unplug it from the charger.

O que você precisa

Passo 1 Bottom Cover

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For your safety, please make sure the device is powered off and the A/C adapter is unplugged.
Use your T5 Torx driver to remove all eight 3.2 mm screws holding down the back panel.
Wedge an opening pick between the back cover and the base of the board, then slightly lift the tool to pop the clips on the back cover off.

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Passo 2

Make sure all screws are removed before you lift the panel to prevent any damage from occurring.
Remove the bottom cover from the device when all sides are free.

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Passo 3 Interconnect Cable

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Use the Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove all four silver 3.2 mm screws fastening the interconnect cable.

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Passo 4

Carefully wedge the plastic opening pick between the fan and the interconnect cable.
If this position does not release the interconnect cable, slide the opening pick along the edge until it is completely free.
Remove the interconnect cable.

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Passo 5

Use the nylon tweezers to remove the interconnect pins from each of the circuit boards.

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Passo 6 Battery

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Use the Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove all eight 6.4 mm screws from the battery.

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Passo 7

Use a plastic opening pick to pry the black battery cable away from its silver adapter.
Hold the pick at 35 degrees from the computer and push towards the battery to remove the cable from its socket.
Do not push straight into the battery cable as this could damage the adapter.
When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.

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Passo 8

Use a plastic opening pick to separate the battery from the device.
Lift the battery straight up and remove it when it is completely separated.

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Passo 9 Fan

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Use the Phillips 0 Screwdriver to carefully extract each of the four 3.2 mm screws.

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Passo 10

Confirm all four screws have been extracted from the fan.
Find the wire connecting the fan into the motherboard and use the plastic opening tool to push the wire out from the motherboard's port.

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Passo 11

The fan has been completely disconnected and is now safe to remove.

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Passo 12 I/O Board

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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the locking flap of the ZIF connector.
Use tweezers or your fingers to gently pull the orange cable out of its socket on the I/O board.
If the cable has a pull tab, use it to grip the cable. You may damage the cable by gripping it directly.
To reconnect, make sure the locking flap is flipped up and gently reinsert the cable. Then, flip the locking flap down to secure the cable. The cable should slide into the socket with little to no force. If you're having trouble, remove it, check that the flap is fully unlocked, and try again.

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Passo 13

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Use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the six 3.2 mm screws securing the I/O board.
Use the tweezers to remove the silver bracket covering the coaxial cable connectors.

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Passo 14

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Use the point of a spudger to push on alternating sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket and disconnect the speaker cable from the I/O board (also known as the daughterboard).
It may take a lot of alternating before the connector comes out. Be patient, and don't pull on the cables.
To reconnect the cable, align the connector and use a spudger or clean fingernail to push it fully into the socket.
Don't push on the cables themselves, or you may damage the connector.

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Passo 15

To disconnect the black and white coaxial cables, slide a thin, ESD-safe pry tool or angled tweezers under the metal neck of the connector (as close to the head as possible) and lift straight up from the board.
When working with these connectors, it's key to always lift the head straight up. If pried on at an odd angle, you risk breaking the socket off of the board underneath.
Reconnecting these can be tricky. Use tweezers to hold the connector in place over its socket and gently press down with your finger or a spudger—the connector should "snap" into place. If you're having trouble, reposition the head and try again.
Don't try to force the connector into place or you may permanently damage it.