Introdução

This guide is inspired by a YouTube Video that I watched to show how to perform this process. If you prefer a step by step guide with nice photos, then this guide is for you. This shows the rear passenger side door power lock actuator unit which, for some reason, is slightly different from all other three doors. However, I include some photos of the other type actuator and include tips for that unit as well.

This is the rear passenger door
  • This is the rear passenger door

  • There are only two trim pieces to remove to access the door panel fasteners. The first is the smooth wood-look door hold.

  • The second is behind the metal door opening handle, adjacent to the lock.

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Remove the black plastic cover "plate" behind the door handle.  I pulled open the door handle and used a metal spudger in the lower right corner to pop out this cover plate. Remove the black plastic cover "plate" behind the door handle.  I pulled open the door handle and used a metal spudger in the lower right corner to pop out this cover plate.
  • Remove the black plastic cover "plate" behind the door handle. I pulled open the door handle and used a metal spudger in the lower right corner to pop out this cover plate.

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Grip the brown plastic trim at the bottom and carefully pull outward.  I have small fingers and prefer slipping them into the crevices to pop the trim at the edges.  It might not be the safest option but it gives me precise control. If you prefer to use a plastic or metal spudger or another type of plastic auto trim removal tool you could carefully slip that tool in the crevice and pop the trim. If you prefer to use a plastic or metal spudger or another type of plastic auto trim removal tool you could carefully slip that tool in the crevice and pop the trim.
  • Grip the brown plastic trim at the bottom and carefully pull outward. I have small fingers and prefer slipping them into the crevices to pop the trim at the edges. It might not be the safest option but it gives me precise control.

  • If you prefer to use a plastic or metal spudger or another type of plastic auto trim removal tool you could carefully slip that tool in the crevice and pop the trim.

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Remove the 3 Phillips head screws from the door handle (1) and from the door pull (2). The two door pull screws are in a somewhat deep cylinder so you'll need a few inches and a slim enough screwdriver to reach. Also, for some reason the door pull screws wanted to stick in the cylinder after I backed them all of the way out...in that case I used long nose or tweezers to pull the screws out.
  • Remove the 3 Phillips head screws from the door handle (1) and from the door pull (2).

  • The two door pull screws are in a somewhat deep cylinder so you'll need a few inches and a slim enough screwdriver to reach.

  • Also, for some reason the door pull screws wanted to stick in the cylinder after I backed them all of the way out...in that case I used long nose or tweezers to pull the screws out.

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I don't own a door panel removal tool.  I used my hands again.  WARNING:  The door panel fasteners are tight.  Slipping your fingers between the door panel and the door frame might cause pain or injury.  Use your hands, preferably with gloves,  at your own risk. Locate an area to start pulling the panel away from the frame (I chose the lower right corner.  I wedged my fingers inside the panel and pulled outward - this will take a bit of force to pop the first couple of fasteners. At the very bottom of the door I noticed a recessed spot (see picture) that could be a useful starting point for a panel removal tool.
  • I don't own a door panel removal tool. I used my hands again. WARNING: The door panel fasteners are tight. Slipping your fingers between the door panel and the door frame might cause pain or injury. Use your hands, preferably with gloves, at your own risk.

  • Locate an area to start pulling the panel away from the frame (I chose the lower right corner. I wedged my fingers inside the panel and pulled outward - this will take a bit of force to pop the first couple of fasteners.

  • At the very bottom of the door I noticed a recessed spot (see picture) that could be a useful starting point for a panel removal tool.

  • When each fastener releases you will hear quite a POP but don't be alarmed. Continue moving from the starting location up to the top and then from the starting corner back around to the left and up again until you have all of the fasteners released.

  • Do not try to pull the panel off yet! We have a few things connected that need to be removed first...

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There is one electrical connector for the door light that need to be removed in the panel.  From the bottom of the door, with the panel opened up, I pressed in on the tab in the middle of the harness connector will release the harness and simultaneously then we need to pull the harness down, away and out of the mating connector There is one electrical connector for the door light that need to be removed in the panel.  From the bottom of the door, with the panel opened up, I pressed in on the tab in the middle of the harness connector will release the harness and simultaneously then we need to pull the harness down, away and out of the mating connector There is one electrical connector for the door light that need to be removed in the panel.  From the bottom of the door, with the panel opened up, I pressed in on the tab in the middle of the harness connector will release the harness and simultaneously then we need to pull the harness down, away and out of the mating connector
  • There is one electrical connector for the door light that need to be removed in the panel. From the bottom of the door, with the panel opened up, I pressed in on the tab in the middle of the harness connector will release the harness and simultaneously then we need to pull the harness down, away and out of the mating connector

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  • With the electrical connector released, work the top of the door panel out of the clips along the top at the window slot. This took me way longer than it should have and I'm sure that there was something I eventually did which was the "trick".

  • I tried angling the door at about a 45 angle and carefully pushed upward but that did not release the clips. Don't force the panel upwards/outwards too hard but there is a certain position (that I can't exactly recall...sorry!) that will allow the clips to more easily release with light upward / outward force.

  • At this point you may want to use one of your knees to press the bottom portion of the 'almost free' door panel up against the door frame for the next step. This will keep the door panel from dangling by the two cables.

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At this point the door panel is only held by the door lock and handle cables that run through the blue plastic and into the door frame cavity and on to the door actuator. First lift the cables out from from the opposing large grey plastic standoffs at the top of the door panel. Next lift up on the white and green plastic cable pieces at their entrance into their respective  slots in the black plastic door handle mechanism housing.
  • At this point the door panel is only held by the door lock and handle cables that run through the blue plastic and into the door frame cavity and on to the door actuator.

  • First lift the cables out from from the opposing large grey plastic standoffs at the top of the door panel.

  • Next lift up on the white and green plastic cable pieces at their entrance into their respective slots in the black plastic door handle mechanism housing.

  • Finally, remove each cable end ("ball") from its respective captive slot. This is fairly easy by just moving the end leader around until the open portion of the slot is accessible and then pushing the end downward and out of its captive slot.

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Remove door panel from frame and set aside Upon inspecting the inside of the door I noticed two plastic panel fasteners that stayed in the door.  I removed these with small bent needle nose pliers and placed them back in the door panel.  I have removed all of the door panels on the Highlander to do this repair but this is the first time the clips came out of the panel! Upon inspecting the inside of the door I noticed two plastic panel fasteners that stayed in the door.  I removed these with small bent needle nose pliers and placed them back in the door panel.  I have removed all of the door panels on the Highlander to do this repair but this is the first time the clips came out of the panel!
  • Remove door panel from frame and set aside

  • Upon inspecting the inside of the door I noticed two plastic panel fasteners that stayed in the door. I removed these with small bent needle nose pliers and placed them back in the door panel. I have removed all of the door panels on the Highlander to do this repair but this is the first time the clips came out of the panel!

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Carefully pull the right side corner of the blue plastic covering the large rectangular opening in the door frame. The actuator is located in the large cavity on the upper right part of the door frame.  This is where the two cables are emerging from the blue plastic covering. The actuator is located in the large cavity on the upper right part of the door frame.  This is where the two cables are emerging from the blue plastic covering.
  • Carefully pull the right side corner of the blue plastic covering the large rectangular opening in the door frame.

  • The actuator is located in the large cavity on the upper right part of the door frame. This is where the two cables are emerging from the blue plastic covering.

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Remove the door lock actuator wiring harness by pressing the harness tab and simultaneously pulling it back and out of the connector housing. Remove the door lock actuator wiring harness by pressing the harness tab and simultaneously pulling it back and out of the connector housing.
  • Remove the door lock actuator wiring harness by pressing the harness tab and simultaneously pulling it back and out of the connector housing.

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The three bolts to remove are Torx type and I think they are T20.  My pitiful old bit set was missing or never came with the necessary T-20 bit. Although I wouldn't recommend this, being a little lazy, I decided to use a 5/32 " hex bit which was obviously imperfect but a nonetheless tight fit without slipping and it easily removed the bolts without any stripping.
  • The three bolts to remove are Torx type and I think they are T20. My pitiful old bit set was missing or never came with the necessary T-20 bit.

  • Although I wouldn't recommend this, being a little lazy, I decided to use a 5/32 " hex bit which was obviously imperfect but a nonetheless tight fit without slipping and it easily removed the bolts without any stripping.

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With the actuator unbolted reach inside the opening in the door frame and grasp the actuator assembly. This rear passenger door uses a plastic fork extension for the outside handle instead of the metal rod type in the other doors.  The back side of the door lock actuator has a short horizontal bar that gets engaged by the outside handle fork extension.
  • With the actuator unbolted reach inside the opening in the door frame and grasp the actuator assembly.

  • This rear passenger door uses a plastic fork extension for the outside handle instead of the metal rod type in the other doors. The back side of the door lock actuator has a short horizontal bar that gets engaged by the outside handle fork extension.

  • Inside of the opening there is a vertical metal strip interfering with the easy removal of the actuator. Therefore, some maneuvering of the door lock actuator is required for the metal bar on the back of the actuator to clear around the vertical metal strip inside the door frame opening.

  • Be patient as it is a bit frustrating but rest assured, the bulky assembly will come out of the hole eventually!

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  • Insert wisdom here.

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Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

drmdolfan

Member since: 24-08-2013

639 reputação

4 Guides authored

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