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Repair guides and support for motorcycles manufactured by Yamaha Motor Company.

My bike not self starting, but starter motor and kick starting works.

I have a yamaha gladiator 125 bike. Its not self starting but starter motor works. When i take my bike a long ride and it heat up self start is working when the engine is in higher heat. Previously i had to change the coil pack due to not starting both kick start and self start. Bike works fine after change the coil pack but self start not worked. Need help.

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@thathsarae51443 when you say "self start" I assume you are referring to the electric starter. You mentioned that the starter motor works but you are not telling us how you checked this. Those are important details. If your starter motor works, then the engine turns over with the electric starter but does not start (fire). You are not saying if you have spark on your sparkplugs correct?

This "self start is working when the engine is in higher heat" actually sounds like a bad starter motor or a bad starter relay, bad kill switch, bad neutral and or clutch switch.. You do want to check those first. If your Yamaha starts with the kick starter but not the electrical starter (while the starter turns over the engine) then the issue is an electrical issue.

Use the Yamaha YBR125DX Gladiator.pdf SM for your motor bike and check the manual starting at page 207 for the electrical system. Let us know what you find out.

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My guess is that the starter relay / solenoid or wiring / contacts are the primary suspect. The relay contacts might not make a good connection when cold (higher resistance), but after heating (or vibration) they make better contact. Also the wiring / grounds may have marginal connections.

So I’d start by checking / replacing the starter relay / solenoid, and cleaning all associated connections.

Here’s a recommended order and what you should measure / observe:

  1. Check for spark when self-starting (cold)
    • Disconnect a spark plug lead, ground the plug to engine, try self-start, see if there is spark.
    • If no spark when cold (but maybe spark when hot), ignition is suspect.
  2. Measure voltage during cranking
    • Use a multimeter: check battery voltage, and voltage at the ignition coil primary, or at spark plug lead, while pressing the start button.
    • Also measure voltage at the starter motor terminals and across the starter relay when you push start.
    • Look for big voltage drops (> 0.5–1 V) between battery and starter / ignition circuits.
  3. Inspect / clean / replace starter relay / solenoid
    • Open the relay/solenoid and check the internal contacts for wear, pitting, or corrosion.
    • Clean or replace the relay if contacts look bad.
    • Sometimes bridging (jumpering) the relay temporarily is a diagnostic (bypass the relay) to see if that restores starting (only do this carefully, understanding the wiring).
  4. Check wiring and ground connections
    • Especially engine-to-frame ground, battery negative to frame, all main cables in starter/ignition circuits.
    • Clean and tighten all connections.
    • Look for broken wires, corrosion, loose joints.
  5. Test the safety switches
    • Clutch switch, neutral switch, kill switch: sometimes these switches fail intermittently.
    • Try bypassing them (or testing continuity) to see if starting works when they’re “forced on.”
  6. Test the starter motor itself under load
    • Remove the starter, bench test with battery, see if it spins strongly at cold and warm.
    • Check brushes, commutator, windings.
  7. Check ignition / CDI / coil / HT lead
    • Even though you replaced coil pack, the rest of the ignition chain (CDI, wiring, leads) may have marginal connections.
    • Under cold conditions, slightly higher resistance or marginal parts can fail.
  8. Battery condition under load
    • Ensure battery is fully charged and healthy.
    • Measure how much voltage it sags during cranking.

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Thathsara Edirisingha será eternamente grato(a).
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