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The March 2015 update of Apple's 13" MacBook Air features fifth generation Intel Core i5 and i7 processors, resulting in slightly increased performance and battery life.

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MacBook Air wont turn on, capacitor damaged, motherboard repair

I am kind of new into repair scene, I know howto use tools and I can solder but my knowledge is still limited.

I have an macbook air that would not turn on, when I put in charger, I will get a orange light. I opened up the macbook and I get a burn smell, I saw an capacitor is damaged, I have removed it but still wont turn on.

When I measure the fuse with my multimeter, I get a constant beep, that is ok right?

My question: Is this specific capacitor needed and replaced before the macbook could turn on?

Motherboard type: Type: 820-00165-A

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Which capacitor was damaged, and when you say you measure the fuse, how are you measuring? It beeps, in diode mode? In continuity mode? Also some pictures of your actual board would be helpful. I have suspicions about the capacitor based on the burning smell. But would rather know for sure.


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@dean88, First off, I should say that you should remove the link to download the schematic and boardview, as that is copyrighted material and shouldn’t be share on iFixit!

The cap should be C7323 according to my board views and in the schematics it’s labeled CRITICAL.

It’s stated to be a 62uF 20% 11V Tantalum Polymer capacitor, and should be replaced with the same specs.

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Ok thanks for your help. I have removed the schematics, I did not knew this was copyright material. I will order and replace.


@dean88 Have you checked to make sure the line isn't shorted anymore (I assume it was to begin with). Even though this capacitor is marked as critical on the schematic (and I would replace it regardless since it would be fairly safe and easy to do so), I would still think it should power on without it. Even if it would be better for it to be present.

I would make sure there's no short to ground still on that power line. But those tantalum caps are frequent points of failure.


@flannelist Thanks for your comment.

- I used the multimeter in continuity mode and I noticed the capacitor was damaged and shorted because it gave a continuity beep.

- Then I removed the capacitor and I tryed to turn on the macbook without the i/o board but nothing happend.

- I have ordered new capacitors of the same type.

I am sorry but I don't know (yet) howto test the line for no shorts, if you could explain of push me in the right direction, you will be a big help!

yesterday by Dean88


@dean88 Sounds like you're on the right track. And by the looks of that cap, it may well have been bad.

But based on the fact that you're still getting no power (I would expect the removal of the cap to relieve the short and allow power on, even without replacement), your underlying issue may be elsewhere.

To test if that line is still shorted to ground you can use either diode mode (if your multimeter has that) or resistance mode. To use Diode mode, put the red probe on any ground on the board, that gold spot near the bad cap would be an obvious choice. Then check with the black probe the readings you get on both pads the cap was on. The one closer to the fan connector should beep (or read close to zero) because it's ground, but the other one should not. I got a reading of .147 on my multimeter with a known good-ish board.

Resistance mode is similar, but takes longer to get a good reading. You'll want black probe on ground for that one and red probe on the pads. But same idea. Close to zero=still short


@dean88 Also because I ran out of room in my last comment. Did you test the cap while it was still on the board? Because that can get you into trouble with shorted lines.

If the whole line is short to ground, then a cap would read as continuous. But what that actually means is, they're both continuous with ground. Sound logic, in theory, have made that mistake myself. But measuring caps is better done when removed from the PCB.


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@geirandersen @flannelist I cant check at the moment, but I found multiple videos with the same problem and solution by replacing the fuse. Since it is easy to replace, it would like to try this.

It is kind of hard finding this part, but I think this one should be ok?

F7140 SMD ceramic fuse Fuse 8A 24V

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@dean88 That looks to be a perfectly fine replacement. Even better that it comes in a ten pack, so if one is bad you have more right away


Okay perfect. I ordered it, will probably arrive in 2 weeks. Then I will replace the fuse and capacitor. I am very curious if the board will boot :) Both thank you very much for all the help. Much appreciated.


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Dean88 será eternamente grato(a).
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