Need to turn off passlock

Hey GM I have a great idea. I install systems in buildings and the security system can be programed several ways. it appears that the passkey system "FAIL OFF", meaning that if anything goes wrong with the system that it turns the system off. a lot of these cars and trucks are past ten years old and are now at the bottom of there blue book price, Really who is going to steal this old ride with 200k miles. Our systems can be set to fail on, meaning that it knows the time and year in the ECM unit so why not "FAIL ON" when it goes bad, why off. Give us a light the says security fail. The programmer had the option to turn it off or turn it on. all it would do on your 1995+ is let you drive it till you decide to get a new ride or fix the security system.

The easiest way to bypass the Passlock 2 system is to place a resistor between the passlock sensing wire and the ground reference wire. To find these wires, look for three wires that at some point are wrapped together, coming from the ignition barrel. Usually, they are orange/black, red/white, and black. They can also be yellow, red/white, and black.

Here's how you do it:

Cut the orange/black wire or the yellow wire, depending on what you have. Strip both ends of the wire, so you can reconnect them if needed. Next you must strip some of the insulation away from the black wire, exposing the copper inside. Now grab a reliable multimeter and set it to read Ohms. stick one probe into the exposed copper in the black wire, being careful not to touch it during the resistance test you are about to do.

Hold the other probe to the ignition side of the wire you cut in the earlier step. While doing this, crank the starter and note the resistance reading you get on the multimeter.

Next, arrange one or more resistors in a chain so that they add up to the value measured while cranking the starter. You can be within about 5% of the value, and it will be accepted by the passlock system as genuine.

Once you have assembled the resistors so they represent the correct value, tightly wrap one end of the resistor through and around the exposed copper of the black wire. You may solder this connection if you desire. Protect this wire by taping over the exposed metal.

Now you take the cut wire that leads toward the Passlock module (NOT toward the ignition barrel) and connect the other end of the resistor to this wire, being sure to tape it to protect against shorting. Once that is done, be sure to tape the exposed cut wire that leads to the ignition barrel.

If you have performed these steps correctly, your Passlock system will no longer give you any problems!

Mine is a 2008 Chevy Colorado.

People this is happening with many models of Chevy and even Hummers. It is that Passlock needs to be relearned. Key turned on then try to start but don't let it, just crank it. Turn off for 5 seconds then Leave in ON position for 10 min, crank it but not start it...then off for 5 seconds, then do the 10 minutes in ON position again then off...crank it...off for 5 seconds and ON position again for 10 min then off, then crank it and off for 5 seconds then ON for 10 minutes then off. Wait for lights to clear then START ( WATCH YOU TUBE VIDEOS)

https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/searc...

A little over 30 minutes and this relearns the PASSLOCK.

Watch Youtube on these techniques. Again this is happening with Impala, HHR, Colorado, Canyons, and a few others.

The other option is to turn the PASSLOCK off. Use the radio to do this. Key on, press volume till readout says SETTINGS then scroll to the Security to toggle off by pressing reset ( watch YOUTUBE). I personally see no sense of having no security system so try the RELEARN method.

Other thing is that the Ignition Switch has a Sensor on it and the wire clip comes loose. You can replace or try to wedge something in there to keep it from moving around.

Also, there is a YouTube where the guy opens driver door, puts key in, car beeps the key chime fast, then turns the key to ON position and the Chime slows and the lights go off on Dash....then start the car.

Works every time he says.

I has the same problem.... I found out though that my AUX PWR fuse was blown and problem fixed... Although i did try the white and blue wire... Once cut... It didnt start.... Put it back together and it worked.... Took the new Aux Pwr fuse out and it didnt start again... Put it back in and problem was fixed and havent had a problem since. Hope this was helpful enough

I've been having this problem on my 02 Silverado for about 10 years. A few years ago, I bypassed the ignition cylinder by hard wiring in some resistors,and "teaching" them to the BCM; this worked fine for about 2 years until the unit would randomly drop the code. I thought I had the hot lick by getting another BCM off eBay for $20 shipped. Installed the new BCM, and relearned via the 10 min. procedure 5x to no avail- no start. I was talking to a high performance friend and he found the stupidest fix I could ever dream of on a software website. The post included the following procedure: Get in the car, shut the door, ignition on, ignition off, window down, window up, lock, unlock... The blasted thing started immediately! I was flabbergasted to say the least.

On a sidebar: I am playing with a 2002 3800 Series II v6 transplant into my 85 Pontiac Bonneville. The engine came from an 02 Firebird equipped with what I now know as Passkey 2 or 3 (resistor in key, to BCM, to PCM). I have now learned that the PCM also shuts off the injectors as well as the fuel pump. This is done via the Fuel Enable circuit to the PCM. It can be duplicated with a 5v 50hz sine wave on Passlock systems which is probably all the newrockies device does. My v6 PCM did not have the option to ignore the VATS or Fuel Enable circuit, so I had to wire in the BCM. Unplugging it while running will fool the PCM until permanent pwored is removed, at which point, the signal needs to be resent.

I have been dealing with this for years....I always used my original key, well 1 day I grabbed my close to unused "spare" key. Problem solved, haven't had the issue again. If you don't have a spare key, order a new key from the dealer, don't let them just cut 1 from your original!

At the end of the ignition barrel inside the steering column is a black cap held by 2 screws. Replace that. It is the best repair for all these electric problems. Also be sure to file a complaint at NTSB.

Hello people I have read the several fixes here on the forum but I don't like cutting wires just to make it work it kind of half @%^ to me. Anyway after poking around the dealers and asking questions they told me unfortunately there is no recall on this reoccurring problem of passlock lock out on my truck. So they told me to just buy the key ignition housing that has all the new components to the ignition including the passlock system inside. So I bought the new housing plus a bolt that you have to buy and went to my mechanic to install it plus programming of the new system in which they knew how to do it. Anyway my mechanic was way cheaper than what the dealer quoted to do the job about a few hundred dollars less. After they installed the new ignition housing with all the new components plus programming everything works great now no more false indicator chiming from my truck which indicateds that there is a problem with the system, that's when my truck just will not start for 10mins. For now I call I fixed.

Don't you think GM is making millions off this fault ? Of those that find a fix at : http://newrockies.com/ there are hundreds that just shrug and tell the dealership to go ahead. Others trash the vehicle if it's over 15 years old. I found out Mercedes and VW have an ABS module built for them in China or Philippines for $27.00 and charge customers from $800.00 and up for it. It's a plug n play module.

Don't you think GM does similar ? If you can buy a lap top for $250.00 or iPhone with all it's circuitry, a GM VATS module has got to be less than $50.00 to build. It's about time some authority looked into the ripp off prices manufacturers charge for electronics.

I cleaned my battery post...the problem went away. Try it.

After dealing with this off and on for over two years, it finally became a daily issue and I got it to the dealership where they said they could finally replicate the problem. They replaced the ignition switch and I have had no issue for two weeks now.

I chatted via direct messages to two different Chevy customer care Twitter accounts with little to no help.

They know it is an issue but are reluctant to do anything.

Hi, I am I have a 2000 Chev 3500HD it was given to me from my dad last yr.. I spent $1200 making it safe to drive back to Canada and it did fine. even towed my old truck back

once I got home for a Cpl months I was driving on hwy and it shut off. I pulled over and in ten min it started and I made it to the next exit then it shut down on the middle of the intersection.

I waited there for a while and started again. went to home depot did some shopping and had dinner. came out it started and drove me home 45min away.

Then I had a periodic times when I'd go to start it and it woukd do NOTHING. then wait a while try again nothing.. wait try again.. and it starts

my starter wasn't engaging and was occasionally still starting long after I'd driven out the driveway. Till eventually it wouldn't start with any reliability. So I replaced starter on March u also replaced the starter relay... twice.

my mom died and I HAD to drive to Atl. I have 3Corgis and no dog sitter who can watch one that bites and the other 2 for a Cpl months while I wrap up moms affairs.

So I packed up the dogs and made out five hours to Detroit. Once there my battery Lite came on I knew I had a bad alternator at that time and rushed to find a hotel room so I could charge battery overnight n get alt in the morn.

I didn't make it. had to have truck towed ONE MILE to motel 6.charged it and went to get alt the following morn.

got alt. and had them check out the rest of the truck to be sure I'd be safe.

I made to to Kentucky and it shut down all of a sudden going 85mph. I pulled over and looked to find the serpentine tension thingy was loose. Someone guided me by phone and I went out and tightened it up myself (I am a tall skinny woman and was wearing 3in heel boots and had dyed my hair pink... so there I was straddling the engine LITERALLY was to tighten it!!) I got it going and went to the truck stop about 45miles down the rd too ask mechanic to tighten it with the proper tool. I stopped in the store first went to Dr back to mechanic and it wouldn't start. I went to tighten the belt and FINALLY got a man's attn. Several came to assist and said it was starter.

I struggled to believe that but then after I slept in the truck in the rain and cold with three dogs hogging my one bench seat, I had the mechanic there replace starter. all seemed well then.. I made it 50miles or so and it shut off again. I called the mechanic and he came to help me.. we got it started and he said to replace the relay when I stopped that night. I made it a full one mile before it stopped again... so he brought me a relay to try we put it on.. the truck started and I went on my way.. made it 30min and ALMOST to the next motel 6 I'd planned on staying in.. and it shut down again.

I sent it off with tow truck and they replaced the crank sensor and throttle position selector. I asked them to ensure it was safe before letting me continue driving as I was heading into two lane mountain roads soon and couldn't risk getting stuck there.

I did fine made it to Atl.. drove back n forth from mom's to my dad's twice which is about 220miles round trip. I had ZERO indication of any issues. at all I was SURE that the $2500 I'd just spent on tows and repairs had finally fixed it.

allow me to make note. when it broke down in Detroit and Kentucky it was raining out or had just rained. when I got to Atl it was VERY dry and we hardly had ANY rain for three weeks or so. I did have two incidents on humid or rainy day when I went in to store and came out to it refusing to start. had to wait 15-45 min and it started up and ran fine.

then last week we had a deluge of rain from a storm from fla.. so we went to go to the beach about 5hrs away to spread mom's ashes. Because we had 5digs between us we had to piggyback down. we made it 60miles out of Atl and Darn it. It shut down again. I waited a few min it started went one mile then shut down again. so I waited and then got it to home depot and called for a $320 ride back to moms.

So now here I sit.. it started sun and I drove to get gas.. no issues. my friend suggested water was getting in gas.. another said under half tank I'm prob getting rust or something in the line. so I figured why not keep it full and not risk it.

I got someone coming to get it and he does gm trucks as a specialist... hopefully he will resolve this. I HAVE had the security light on ALL THE TIME. it has been on more than a week off ion the thing. But it doesn't have electric doors windows an alarm or any other thing.. so I didn't give it much attn. I figured it's an old truck maybe had a stereo or something like that or the light was a standard light they install even if u don't have an alarm.

Now reading all this I wonder... it is entirely plausible it has this issue. I don't even have a plastic housing in the steering column which tells me the prev owner had done all this type stuff with the same issue. his employee told me before I let Daddy gimme the truck that it shut off on him or wouldn't start. but I thought the $1200 I spent to get it going fixed that issue. now I figure it is either this pass lock or it is the fuel relay or a rusted pump... ANY other suggestions????

I am not exactly loaded.. I mean my dad had to gimme this truck so I had "reliable" transportation.. that's a laugh.. I've now spent prob $4500 on this truck and still have to spend more just to get home to buy another car in Canada. This is CRAZY.. I do like the trick.. love my toolboxes and want to keep it and use as a second vehicle.. but I need to trust it and I simply DON'T.

anyone have suggestions and or links advice?

.

Has anyone ever just given up and had the dang vehicle towed away? 2006 GMC Canyon with 209k. Runs fine but with miles and wear we don’t feel like investing a bunch of money into it. It’s been a MONTH since it ran!! Started with buying a new $100 battery till we noticed the SOLID red lock on the dash. Can’t do the cut blue wire trick because it won’t even start. Tried the spare key. Bought a new key. The 10 minute key solution or using the key on door lock has never worked. We were going to buy a new ignition cylinder, but I’m not even sure I want to spend the $70 for that. Husband suggested towing it to a dealer for an estimate. I’m sure that’d be at least a few hundred bucks alone. I am so angry about this since the darn truck runs decent. Since the light doesn’t blink and is solid does that mean the entire security system is blown? Any suggestions?

Stop buying the junk and maybe manufacturers will build simpiler cars

Its too bad car makers ruin otherwise good vehicles with too many gadgets. I love my tahoe but I too have chevys pathetic gadgets ruining my chevy loyalty. I just bought the newrockies module and it completely disabled or bypassed GMs idiot engineering. No more starting or alarm issues.

hola poseo una chevy colorado 2.9 2007 me tiraba el "candadito" segui los pasos del transportista sin gastar dinero

1-llevar llave 2° posision,

2-esperar a que desaparezcan los logos [ #] -[#]-[#]-[#] del la pantalla sonara un "clic" bajo el capot ponga atención al clic ok.

3- dar arranque

paciencia¡¡¡¡¡

We did our wire clip a couple of years ago, no trouble since then until the other day. My four wheel was glitchy so I took it in and he did some resetting via his computer thingie, when he was rechecking he decided to put it into 4L and after that it wouldn't start at all. We went to the shop and re-wired the cut wire and it started fine. After reading some of the above comments about a toggle we did that as well once we brought the truck home. Now the only issue I am having is it won't lock the doors. I have to check if the inside manual locking buttons will work and if the key will unlock fine without setting off the annoying honking.

In High School we had annual event or having the students smashing the vehicle with sledge hammers. In this case, the event should highlight the Passcode 2 system as the only thing wrong with the vehicle and is has the potential of being a safety issue from the no start problem. Make sure you can find every press, social media and local officials there to witness the event. Also, make signs saying why the vehicle is being destroyed, and pass them out! Give all the money raised to the families who have lost their lives die to this passcode 2 /ignition problem.

Good day to you all too.... I had the same personal problem with my Chevy.... I when an bought a new key switch an reset the computer an I never gave that problem again...

Im having this same problem cant i hard wire my fuel pump to my accsourey fuse so when my ignition spins over the fuel pump amd it should stay running shoukd it not ?

Hey guys my passlock seems to have a different effect on the 2007 Chevy Colorado. It disables the fuel injectors and doesn't allow the truck to start at all... it will crank and show you just how amazing the battery and starter are, but without gas you're just spinning your starter and draining your battery... you are All going to have to just stop being cheap tho. The doorman model of the ignition lock cylinder comes with a Passlock system and I'm pretty certain it doesn't need to be programmed on this particular model. I have the 4x4, 5 cylinder, crew cab. The part is 80$ and I would suggest a mechanic install over a 100$ an hour shop to save some money but i know not every one has one. I am buying the part asap and will update this as I learn more...

Paslock can be replaced cheaply with an ignition part. You don't even have to replace your key. Mine is fixed, no reprogramming, minor self labor or minor shop labor is all that's required. Anyone that has a paslock issue ONLY needs to replace a simple ignition component.

Not sure yet, but you are saying step one turn the truck on during this procedure the problem the truck will not crank or turns on

I have found, after all that i have read, nothing is a solid repair for this. So with that being said, I will give you My technique (and so far it has worked). My 04 colorado acts up occasionally. I have found if the ignition switch is just turned S-l-O-W-L-Y, most times it will fire. Sometimes not. If not,dont panic. Back the key off and try it again! Low and slow does it for me….

On my 2008 Colorado, I have to:

1, put truck in neutral (5 speed manual)

2. turn key to on position,

3.  Press clutch to floor then release

4. Turn key to start and engine starts

'''Agen Bola Tangkas''' - i dont know how to tell

Only way to permanently fix this is to send the PCM to a tuner and have them eliminate the VATS / Passlock. or pay the dealership 500 to have them replace the ignition switch assembly and reprogram

To fix the Passlock System on the 1st Gen Colorado / Canyon You need to replace the ignition switch Assy. Part # D1462G & if your Keys are worn bad you will need to get New keys cut from the factory Key Code don’t get new keys cut from your old worn out keys !

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D1462G-Or...

send pcm to limeswap and tune out VATS for $99 or a little over.

I am wondering if this is a voltage issue. I have had the problem intermittently for years (mine is a 2007), but each time it gets really bad, the battery goes. After replacement of the battery the lockout goes away completely. I plan on tracking it this time to see if there is any correlation (yes, I plan on keeping it it that long)

-Dave Bowman

Silverdale, WA

for me it seems to have been the ingition. Many said that was not the issue but now that it is replaced it has been running fine. The person who fixed it said that if it happened again he could disarm the pass lock system. He is very experienced. I could not get anyone else to do that b/c they said if they cut the wrong wire it could be a disaster.

Take care,

Ann

Hey car manufacturers, how about letting the buyer decide if he wants your crappy gadgets. Why do car makers give a %#*@ anyway? They've made there