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A Kenmore residential washing machine made between 2001 and 2009. Identify the age of your Kenmore washer with its serial number.

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Washer filled up with water, but now it won't spin. Kenmore 400

Washer filled up with water, but now it won't spin. Kenmore 400, model 11029422801.

None of the cycles work. Washer is almost full of water. Can't get it to start, spin, drain, nothing. If I force the dial and turn it while holding it in position to in between the full load and medium load selection, it will start to fill again. I only did this for a second so that it doesn't over flow. Is this the symptom of a bad lid switch, 8318084? Figured I'd try that first.

Update (10/16/2022)

See attached image. With timer in wash position there is no continuity between the two prongs circled in white with the timer disconnected from the system. These are where the red and black wires connect. Notice how there are 4 spaces between the 2 prongs. My confusion is if there are 4 spaces between, how can red be pin 7 and black be pin 10?

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@maxmodder yes, seems to be your door switch. See if you can jump it. We would need to know the exact model number for your washer to see if we can find a wiring diagram to remotely assist you.


Just jumper the white and gray wire, and it of course needs ground to test. Got it. Thanks!


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hi @maxmodder

Here's the wiring diagram for your model.

Since it fills but nothing after that, it could be the lid switch is the problem, part #8318084 as looking at the diagram, it can fill with the lid open but the lid switch needs to be closed to supply power to the motor.

Disconnect the power to the washer and use an Ohmmeter to check for continuity through the lid switch.

If the lid switch is OK then the problem most likely is the timer part #W10199989.

Do not attempt to open the timer to try and fix it as you will have cams and contacts everywhere. Even if there is a faulty internal part there are no internal replacement parts. You have to replace the unit. You could try disconnecting the power to the washer and liberally spraying some electronic contact cleaner (example only) through any convenient gap in the timer assembly to see if this fixes it if it were a dirty contact for instance. Allow time to dry (read label on can of contact cleaner.

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Hi @maxmodder,

DON'T put a ground on the lid switch if this is what you mean!

There is AC voltage connected to the switch. You will blow the fuse at best and at worst have a big flash which may injure you if you just touch an earth wire on the switch terminals


What I did is I disconnected the switch. I connected the ground wire from the plug to the intended ground location on the bolt. I put a jumper in the plug between the gray and white wires. It still won't work.


The lid switch is getting continuity as verified with a multimeter. I connected it and activated it by hand, still nothing so is it 100% the timer? I can get another washer for $200 installed and delivered, so I may just go that route.



To prove the timer, disconnect the power to the washer, set the timer to wash, pull it to turn it on and connect the meter between the neutral pin of the power cord (black wire) and blue wire on term 13 of the timer. If there is continuity, then go onto terminal 7 (red wire). There should be continuity. If there is continuity to the timer but not "thru" it to the motor then the timer is the problem. If there's continuity thru the timer it may be the motor.


With power unplugged and timer set to wash and the connector plug unplugged from the timer, there is no continuity between the neutral and blue wire, or the neutral and red. There is continuity between the black wire and the neutral (black wire that is 5 positions over from the red wire)

With the connector still unplugged from the timer, the power wire disconnected and the timer set to wash, There is no continuity between the actual pins on the timer 7 to neutral or pin 13 on the timer to neutral. So it's the timer switch that is bad?


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