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Repair guides and support for top and front loading Whirlpool brand washers.

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washer has had the error codes F03 and E01.

My whirlpool duet washer has had the error codes F03 and E01. The pressure switch has been replaced 3x’s with no results. Still get that error.

I pointed out that it may be an Air Dome Assembly per service bulletin for this model of washer with the model # WFW95HEDWO. He, “The Tech” answer, even after I showed him the bulletin was “no I don’t think that the problem”. How much is that part and how hard is it to replace? Also, should I pursue this possible fix with Whirlpool?

Thank you,

Pat G.

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I replaced the “air dome” switch or whatever it’s called in mine and it didn’t change anything. I’m sick of this piece of junk!

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@Evelyn Sgourakis did you try unplugging it? Mine would do that and I would unplug it for like 15 minutes or so and it would unlock when I plugged it back in. I did everything I could think of and finally just replaced it. Hope you get something figured out and good luck with the COVID!

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I have the same issue and still can not seem to find an answer.

I replaced the pressure switch.

I clear the code.

I cleared air trap and drainage.

Same issue and its only 1 year old.

Sadly this model was highly recommended by consumer reports.

Anyone have any other solid idea?

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I have this same exact issue with no answers. Hate this machine so much.

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The F01 indicates a failed electronic machine control board. This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines. You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes. ... Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components.

E03 The overflow condition occurs if there is too much water or foam in the washer. If overflow occurs, the valves are closed and the drain pump switches on for at least 30 seconds. ... Once the error code is displayed, the cycle is terminated and all water is pumped out.

Unplug the machine for five minutes to allow it to reset the plug it back in and observe any results and report them back.

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We have done the above and plugged back in and it still reads those error codes

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We are having the same issue and the tech that came out to fix it told us it was the drain pump that needed changing but after reading all the stuff out there I am not so sure anymore. He was looking up the info when he came, so he didn't even know what could be wrong with it. I am trying to troubleshoot this myself because if he changes the pump and it doesn't fix it I am back to square one and I have to pay more :(

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Mey. ask the guy that probably didn't get a high school degree what his reasoning is for it being the drain pump and if he can substantiate that diagnosis. Let's see if @ladytech can help.

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Not sure if this will work for everyone, but when clutter accumulates on top of my washer it shows this error code. The weight of the stuff piled on top of my washer is causing the problem. Once I clear it off the washer works fine (after I unplug and reset).

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Just for those reading this information. The reason that replacing parts is not working for this issue and performing the resets and unplugging is that this does not address the fundamental condition of the washer first. It needs a very thorough clean first. Most people fill their detergent bins as it would appear to guide them that way. Only 2 Table spoons of HE detergent is needed as a routine. And periodic after 20 loads a deep clean process on the machine dial.

Shop vacuum or wet vac the drain port. This will remove most accumulation that is difficult to pump out. It makes sure that your drain area is empty. Blowing on the pressure tube can help but only when it is has a cleaning liquid exposed like the CLR and degreaser.

Apply CLR to the detergent dispenser (1/2 cup), Apply a degreaser to the bleach dispenser, Apply vinegar to the softener dispenser. Add a no suds cleaner such as Borax to the tub area. Run the system clean which performs a high temperature steam clean.

Clean the drain catch.

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Dear Patty,

The problem is most probably a Air Trap Pipe Blockage, It can also be clogged with soap suds and leaking moisture, causing error code F03 E01. When clogged, the nozzle captures air incorrectly, wherefore it presses on the pressure switch. As a result, it determines the wrong amount of water in the tank, which sends a signal to the main control board.

Hope this helps!

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How do I fix it

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Good information, but how do I unclog the nozzle and where is the nozzle located?

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I just had the same error, I opened the back and the top cover, took out drain filter, it was so clean, we just got the house along with it two years ago. Anyway, the door was locked along with the errors, so next thing I went to look is the lock mechanism from the inside. Turn out just probably a slight misalignment of the lock, so I saw a small piece sticking out from the lock, when I pull it, it unlocks the door and I was able to open the door and when I plug it back again, it works!

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I have a Whirlpool front load washer with the FO1 and EO3 error. This indicates that water is detected by the pressure sensor water level circuit. I realise some patients is needed in my analysis. I hope it helps you address the issue with some valuable insight.

Make some observations. You may smell the inside of the washer. Does it smell damp with sour soap washer residue ? Consider that there is a buildup of scum throughout the washer.

Disconnect the power and remove the rubber connector from the drain port of the machine at the top left. Attach a shop vacuum hose so that it fits over the drain port to remove the residual water and potential build up. reattach the drain hose.

Add two table spoons of a water based degreaser such as Zep Orange Citrus to the bleach section. Add vinegar to the rinse softener section. Add 3 table spoons of CLR to the detergent section. Add 4 table spoons of baking soda to the tumbler.

The degreaser, vinegar, and CLR will clean the dispenser and enter through the water inlet cycle into the cloths tumbler. The baking soda will make the water more hard to have less suds. Vinegar, and degreaser will remove the tendency of suds as well. The CLR generates suds and is recommend to be low volume near 1/8 cup. The CLR will remove calcification of the tubes.

Turn the cycle dial to the self clean mode, or a hot wash cycle, and turn on the machine. The drain pump will run for a short while and start the clean cycle. There is a chance the sensor will still detect a high level condition. If it does, consider leaving it sit till the next day unplugged to allow and suds that may have accumulated in the sensor tubes to settle.

If the sensor error continues, consider repeating the above. Allow the error code and pumping cycle go run for hours if it likes. Shut the door to tolerate the beeping. Each time the washer is going through a cycle of draining the water. Be patient and get through the self clean cycle once and try again a second time repeating the above.

This should allow you to run about 4 loads. After the loads, consider running the same self cleaning cycle. You might have some alarms but be patient as this process will help you observe that the system works under certain conditions.

The error is more likely do to too much soap. Only add Two table spoons of detergent and softener and add a degreaser. As the washer nears the end of it's cycles and pumps water up to the top of washer drain port it needs to push out the water at a rate where enough water left in the tube and runs back down will not trigger the water pressure/level sensor. In fact, in the rinse cycle, the water is drained in stages as new water is introduced. So the sensor detects various levels through the pressure sensor and can trigger a false condition after any one of the drain cycles.

The main reason is that too many bubbles are being generated and too much air is being introduced as the washer attempts to drain the tube. The bubbles lead to false measurement of level and the pump can not drain the bubble upward.

Take off the top section of the washer and observe the cycles and the clear tube.

If the pump is weak or there is too much air getting to the pump area suds will be generated. Certainly, cleaning the trap at the bottom of the washer will be one of the first things. The tubs checked for cracks, and that your tub smell very clean.

These are things I would do before exchanging parts.

I wish you well.

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6 Comments:

I repeated the cleaning technique above a few times. The alarm/error code returned when the load was heavy with towels etc. The soap was a little more than usual.

Try to be patient. When the error occurs and you hear the pump working with a slight hum note that there may be foam generated in the tube. Go ahead and vacuum the drain port to remove the foam while the washer pump is operating. Usually, the water level sensor detects the low water level and opens the door.

Open the door. In fact, your cloths may pass through the wash cycle and open the door. How ever, if you leave it sitting for a few minutes without opening the unlocked door the sensor may detect a water level condition and lock the door while attempting to pump water. This creates more suds because there is more air

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It is possible, the sensitivity of the water level setting has changed or a balance of air and water is creating a false reading.

Put the system through a system clean with liquids that do not have suds and removes the contaminants.

Use lighter loads of cloths

Use only 2 table spoons of detergent and softener.

System clean after every 3 to 4 runs.

see if this helps for the time.

At that point when the system still shows signs of not working consider a removal of the water pump and examine obstructions in the pump. especially near the blades

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What I have learned when addressing the Error F01 and E03 ( FO1 EO3 ) The F is significant to the sensor circuit, the E is error in the measured condition of the washer tub.

E03 is a high water level detected after drain pump operation.

The first approach for any diagnostic on the washer is to clean with CLR (2 TBS to 1/8 cup), include a water hardener such as baking soda or filtered baking soda and Epson salts to mineralize or harden the water and reduce suds.

Add the water harder to the soap dispenser so that the liquid goes directly into the tub. After your rinse cycle you may add it just before the pump turns on so that the water will drain with reduced suds generated.

Repeat the clean and water additive process.

When operating a wash cycle, Only 1 to 2 TBS of soap and rinse. Add degreaser to the bleach tray.

Run cycle on hot

1/2 of your normal large load.

Vacuum drain port if error code reappears.

Clean every 4 loads

I have run 8 loads after performing the above at this point

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Update.

Borax added to the tub seems to stabilize the operation between multiple users.

I believe this reduces the suds generated when the pump drains the tub.

Imagine that a pump needs to push the water upward to the top of the machine where it drains out into the laundry drain.

What happens when the water is reduced in the drain tube ?

At first, the tube has a solid column of liquid. What happens with water so low that half of the tubes has air ?

The air is being churned into the soapy water.

So, the pump is churning the soapy water with air that generates bumbles. These bubbles take up space and act as a membrane pushing up in the sensor tube.

Beep ! F1 E3. .... Tub water level sensor alarm activated.

If the machine is shut off for hrs it may operate as normal.

To take care of the alarm.

Reduce the amount of Tide He to 2 table spoons tbs.

Use only 1/4 cup of Borax or Baking Soda to reduce the suds generated.

Perform a complete clean as mentioned in earlier posts.

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# Shop vacuum the water drain port connected through the tube into your laundry room drain. # Repeated use of CLR and Degreasers in the soap, bleach, and softener bins. (This may result in errors due to suds but be patient . # Remove the top panel and locate the water level pressure sensor tube that is typically near the drain port. # Detach the sensor level tube from the sensor by holding the tube at the sensor port # Blow hard into the tube several times and repeat as many times as needed. # Add degreaser to your bleach bin. # Run your washer through a system clean after every 10 washes, reduce load size, use an incredibly small about of liquid HE soap. # If you have successful washes in between a few days, there are conditions the system works. This means more system cleaning to get back to normal operation.# consider checking the drain trap, easily removing the motor and check the intake area for trapped items.# On the inside of the top lid is a maintenance manual to perform diagnostics

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You have to take off the top cover and reach down and flip the open latch manually.

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Thank you! I left the washer unplugged all night. I’ve removed the drain line and used a shop vac on it. I removed the top panel so I could get the door unlocked. I removed the back panel and cleaned out the drain filter. I had a hard time getting to where it would even let me run a load. Somehow, through a combination of unplugging it, leaving the door open when I plugged it back in, turning it on and off, etc., (and lots of luck, most likely), it finally let me push the buttons and run a cleaning cycle. Then it went back to the E01 F03 error. I did the unplug it dance again and finally was able to run a load (four towels). Then it did the error messages again (after the load finished). Now it just has 3 horizontal lines on the display (or the error codes) and won't let me start it. (I've just been running it with vinegar, no detergent, in case that's contributing to the problem.)

I'd appreciate any help and suggestions. Thanks!

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Detach the rubber tube from the sensor that is clipped near the top drain outlet. Blow hard several times through this tube and the door may unlock. This means the tube contains heavy residue and cleaning is needed.

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Check your drain filter if it’s accessible, if it’s not the technician should be checking that when they check over the machine. I just did one with the same errors and it was simply a clogged drain filter however it’s sometimes inside the machine and only a technician should attempt taking the u it apart.

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Thank you all for the help and feedback! I removed the drain line again and used the shop vac again. I didn't think I would need to do that again, but I think that is what finally did it. I've run 2 more loads since then (with only vinegar, no detergent), and so far it's not giving me any more problems. Thank you all!

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I was an engineer that designed water treatment plants for 25 years and I’ve been a handyman for 10 years and this problem has stumped me for several years on my home machine (whirlpool duet front loader). I tried everything you might’ve read in this forum and every other. Of course the basics like unplugging it and clearing the error codes but all of the advanced stuff too . Replaced pressure transducers, drain pump, cleared all lines and filters checked circuit boards, leveled the unit check drain line configurations… no matter what it what I did it was always a temporary fix.

Then last week I got Covid and as I recovered I said enough is enough and I had the time to just tear the thing apart. Dissembled the whole drain system and you know what? the answer to this jumped out at me immediately. The internal drain line from the bottom of the unit to the top effluent line is the culprit. Right near where it connects to the bottom is a check valve. This check valve is supposed to stop that 2 feet of water that goes to the top of the unit for discharge from falling back into the bottom sump. It can fail and worse than that it was designed with a hole in it!! That’s right a rubber flapper check valve with a hole in it which is something I’ve never seen in my life. Even if it closes the water will very slowly trickle back in through that hole and eventually refill the bottom sump. The engineer that designed this piece of crap should be fired. Replace this line and you will be good to go (see link below) but I didn’t even bother. I just sealed the 1th inch diameter hole in the gasket and voilà. Cheers!

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/...

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Todd excellent insight on the presence of a check valve. If the check valve was the issue, would you think that this would always be the case when the unit is run. In our situation, it was after three years of use. My thought about the hole in the check valve flap is that this allows relief when there is air trapped and the pump can not push the flap open. The bubble that are generated can create false readings. So, in my mind, the small holes allow for air to escape the system and are small enough to support the expulsion of the water column with resistance. Typical check valve systems for laundry have weep holes in the pipe to allow for air to escape while a tricle of water may drain back a majority will push out when the flap closes.

What worked for us was a repetitive cleaning cycle with chemicals that did not generate suds. A shop vac of the drain tube from the drain port to the house drain. This means to me that first and most meaningful step is to persistently clean the unit with materials that disolve or remove accumulation.

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I found I was putting in some cases twice the amount of detergent recommended by the detergent manufacturer, in my case it was Tide HE detergent. I was adding liquid detergent to the fill line in the washer but for a small to medium load that's twice the amount needed. This is my third washer in twelve years and the one before that only lasted about four years. I never knew. Hope this helps.

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I figured it out. I noticed that this error code happened more when I ran laundry than when my wife did. And since I am the only one to add detergent, I decided to try an experiment. Instead of filling the detergent dispenser to the fill line, I filled it only half full. Not one single load has errors since.

Hope that this works for you as well.

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Only two TBS or 1 oz is recommended. The bin size and fill line have different purposes or intent. When you hear the water pass through at the start of the cycle, it is passing through the bin and draining into the tub. For that reason the detergent bins are large to allow water to rinse through them to collect the detergent.

Load size will influence the weight of the tub in the residual water below and give a false water level reading. Use smaller loads and a few towels and single comforters at a time.

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I have had this issue multiple times and repaired it with different methods.

  • First time I cleaned the dispenser motor contacts
  • Second time (one year later) replaced the entire dispenser motor
  • Third time (one year later) had to replace the entire main board.

It’s been running fine since and that was 2 years ago now.

HtH.

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Have a whirlpool front loader model:W10891955A.

have been getting the F03 followed by E03 code. I took the back off the washer and accessed the trap for the drain (turned off water and unplugged first). Lots of stuff in there! Cleaned the whole thing out and replaced trap. First load ran fine with no error. Second load produced same codes. I am using Tide HE detergent in the “load and go” dispenser. I am wondering if it’s the detergent? I did just go back to using Tide a few months ago-and can’t remember for sure if that’s about when codes showed up. Anyone have ideas?

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I really don’t think it’s the detergent. I’ve used quite a few different kinds and still got the same stupid error code. I finally just replaced it. It was only 3-4 years old.

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We not even using detergent are are getting the code!

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It too much detergent over 4 yrs has resulted in accumulated soap in the black pressure tube. Run a hot cycle and remove top cover. Locate the black pressure connect to the sensor. Rotate the sensor out, grab the tube at the port, squeeze, twist it off gently by rotating and pulling at the very end of the port opening. Don't just pull the tube, it just makes it harder as it squeezes the port.

Blow very hard down through the tube 4 times. Then reassemble.

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My Hisense washing machine was showing the f03 error. I opened the plug for water dispensing and some dirt came out. Of all things a tooth floss was blocking the water dispenser, I kept hearing a cracking sound just before the error sound . I took it out, now it’s working perfectly.

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A tooth floss seems too small, but accumulated hair and dirt around it seems plausible. The one thought that I had was how accumulated soap and material can not be pushed up the tube from the floor area and out the drain. If it was an air blower I could understand but the mechanism is a water impeller that can't push a half column of air and water up a 3 ft tube. A residual accumulation of soaps may add up if too much concentrate is in the system. It dries after each cycle, then is rehydrated and adds to the new abundance of (dog hair) soap etc and this concentrate builds up.

New habits help.

1. Smell your tub after each wash. Is it sour or soapy clean smell ? Clean with CLR if sour smell.

Habit 2:

Use a table spoon measure for your HE soap. and only measure 2 TBS into the dispenser.

Habit 3:

Use less of a load, leave space at the top of your clothes bin.

Habit 4:

Run your washer through its clean cycle with 4 tbs of CLR in each soap, bleach, softener bin every 20 loads.

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I am happy to say I have run 20 loads of various types without any error codes.

The repeat maintenance I performed was the CLR decalcification clean under the system clean cycle of hot water cycle (such as towels).

When the error E03 occurred I:

Vacuumed the drain port while the pump was draining. Repeated until door lock opened.

Placed CLR in all the dispenser trays (total) 1/8 cup.

Added 1/4 cup of baking soda to the bin

Ran a hot cycle or the system clean cycle

On the next load I added only 1/2 the normal amount of clothes for 4 load cycles.

Used 2 Table Spoons of Tide HE laundry detergent

and 2 Tables Spoons of Softener.

Ran hot water cycles

Repeated the cleaning cycle with CLR after each cycle.

Now the E03 error is gone and the washer runs consistently.

I believe this cleaning method is a first diagnostic approach to help isolate any other issues. It can save on any physical repair or call to a tech.

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At this point, there have not been any errors. I add a squirt of Tide HE, a squirt of softener, a 1/4 cup Borax in tub area. A degreaser ZEP in bleach bin.

Reduce load size and that's it, not parts removed no parts ordered no dismantling ...

Try the past cleaning process before replacing parts. I suggest if the thorough cleaning process was not effective, then clean the traps , remove the pump to see if their is something like a pin or thread interning with the flow .

reassemble and clean iften

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I have this problem, too, and could use some help please.  I left the washer unplugged all night. I’ve removed the drain line and used a shop vac on it. I removed the top panel so I could get the door unlocked. I removed the back panel and cleaned out the drain filter.

I had a hard time getting to where it would even let me run a load. Somehow, through a combination of unplugging it, leaving the door open when I plugged it back in, turning it on and off, etc., (and lots of luck, most likely), it finally let me push the buttons and run a cleaning cycle. Then it went back to the E01 F03 error.

I did the unplug it dance again and finally was able to run a load (four towels). Then it did the error messages again (after the load finished).

Now it just has 3 horizontal lines on the display (or the error codes) and won't let me start it. (I've just been running it with vinegar, no detergent, in case that's contributing to the problem.)

I'd appreciate any help and suggestions. Thanks!

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The CLR is very effective and may create suds etc. When the alarm process is cycling with the drain pump, the computer is measuring what it believes is water level. It will run the pump for a set time and then measure water level. If the sensor detects a false water level then it will repeat. let it repeat if it needs to for a few hours. Then turn off the machine. After cleaning with CLR, the calcium build up and soap buildup are reduce. The key here is to be patient, let the system go through its cycle during the error code and the red light flashing while off to attempt to pump. When unit is turned off but kept plugged it the red light will flash while running the pump . I attach the shop vac during the draining because the valves are open to suck out whatever. The water level sensor may detect a low level and unlock the door. I suggest using Borax instead of Tide due to the fact people tend to use too much Tide. Borax is more compatible

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Turn the knob to a different location. Be patient. It will correct itself. It did the same for me. Turn it off try again later. I believe the system just funds itself caught up in an error loop. You will eventually learn how it behaves. A wet blanket will giver errors. We give up and dry the wet blanket rather than spin it. Once the blanket is removed you may wash other clothes. It really takes time and cleaning with a strong cleaner on the system clean mode. Again small amounts.

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Prior to any parts replacement.

1. Fill each cavity of the dispenser with a high strength degreaser.

2. Run system clean. Setting is at 6 O'clock position.

Repeat with CLR cleaner.

3. Fill each cavity of the dispenser the CLR cleaner.

4. Run system clean. Setting is at 6 O'clock position.

Change how soap is placed in the machine.

1. Add 1 cup of Borax to the tumbler only.

2 Run a few times with 1/3 of the load.

Diagnostic

# Does the washer run a few loads or at least get past the wash and stop with Error code before rinse ?

  1. Remove the top panel and locate the black tube in the back right side near the drain port . Twist the sensor that is attached to the bracket about 1/4 turn to release.
  2. Hold the sensor while grasp the black rubber tube at the closest point on the sensor port and gently rotate the sensor while rotating the rubber tube until it breaks contact with sensor port and you are able to remove the tube from the sensor.
  3. Reattach the sensor to the washer frame.
  4. without pulling on the rubber tube, blow through it repetitively and strong bursts of air.T

I found that blowing through the tube each time after a clean helped solve most persistent issues after performing a clean.

Wet vacuum of the drain port while the pump is running is helpful as a first step.

  • You may need several cycles of cleaning and vacuuming and blowing before you get to the point where you may wash your clothes more consistently.

BE PATIENT, just take your time to get past the clean cycles

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