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Lançado em junho de 2012, modelo A1278. Processador Intel com Turbo Boost, até 512 MB DDR5 de RAM vídeo

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Will Crucial MX500 2TB 3D CT2000MX500SSD1 SSD work in my Mid-2012 MBP?

Hi,

Your going to have to forgive me in advance I use to work on computers, but need help because I want to understand a basic breakdown between an HDD and SSD, also could somebody please explain to me what NVME for SSD’s means?

I am a college student with a Macbook Mid-2012 with 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Intel Core i5 it has 16 GB of RAM. I am looking to upgrade from the two 500 GB HDD I currently have installed to one of the following options:

  • Crucial MX500 2TB SSD - 3D NAND SATA 2.5” SATA III (6.0 Gb/s) CT2000MX500SSD1
  • Samsung 860 QVO 2TB SSD - 2.5” SATA III (6.0 Gb/s) MZ-76Q2T0B/AM
  • Some other SSD

Would either of these SSD’s work in a Mid-2012 MBP? Do I need a Mounting Bracket or not? Should I also get a SATA to USB Cable since SSD’s are shockproof?

My concern is one of the reviews on Amazon said that his Crucial SSD stopped working after 5 months, that concerns me, plus I know these are expensive but being a college student and being a person who is capable of upgrading his own computer and I have some leftover money from Financial Aid to use, and considering how much I use my computer for school, writing papers etc. I need some recommendations in deciding what is best.

Also, I need recommendations for a backup External HDD or SSD for my Mid-2012 MacBook Pro.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Marshall D.W.H.

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These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs to be replaced. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot on the chassis. It also helps to put something on the optical drive (and cable) itself to layer up on protection and limit the chances for another failure as long as possible. Refer to this guide to change the cable. If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will not work correctly and create issues until it’s done. Do it when you buy the machine and get it home or do it once you put a new drive in. The SATA II cable is what causes 90-99% of drive issues - nor does the tendency for damage help.

In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:

Block Image

(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)

Block Image

This image from @mayer on how he does it. I more or less mirrored it in mine.

In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.

As far as the SSDs go I’ve had issues with Crucial before (and Samsung had Linux TRIM issues with the 840 EVO, but that’s long since patched and hasn’t reoccured) so I usually recommend the Samsung. If you’re on a student bugdet, look into a WD or SanDisk (WD now owns SanDisk); WD just rebrands SanDisk SSDs so go off of price and spec.

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@nick - FYI - The optical drive fix is only needed in the 15" models and the plastic tabs tend to snap on them. There's no tabs in the 13" models.

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@danj I added it more to err on the side of caution. These cables are disturbingly fragile - beyond literally any other laptop even. I've clarified it's discretionary and not strictly required. Stuff like these bad cables makes me glad we're using blade drives now.

My cable came with a bad IR sensor, so while I don't care about that failing I did want to be sure since the HD side works. I believe they snapped in my 17" but I was fine because those things are NOT travel friendly. It's also possible the giant chassis provides breathing room if they snap.

When I taped mine up, I used the protections Mayer did and I haven't had an issue and added some.

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I take the liberty to add to the SSD list of good drives the Silicon Power brand, after a few trials with good results, I've put one on my beloved old 17" that had an older EVO840 and I'm really very pleased with it, it feels the difference.

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@arbaman Yep. Those EVO drives hurt Samsung for a while since they were so bad. It's been long enough without a repeat it's forgiveable but still a bad mark.

With SanDisk avoid the SSD Plus - it's a DRAM-less trainwreck of an SSD. Any SSD with a questionably low price is suspect.

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@nick To be honest I don't really even know how that EVO ended up in my Mac..I had put an Intenso years back and I was a bit surprised when I found that Samsung inside a couple of weeks ago. Must have been some trial I forgot about :D

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I have a similar MacBook Pro and I upgraded to a 1 TB Crucial SSD a couple of years ago. Dead easy upgrade following the instructions on iFixit and on Apple web site. The drive is a drop in replacement for the original Apple SATA hard drive and needs no extra parts that did not come with the Crucial drive. And unlike newer Mac laptops there is no need for special tools to get in or to access the RAM or the hard drive.

I loved my drive until the last week or so when it has started to show signs of failure.

I have not yet had time to do a full diagnosis. If it is just a single bad block I can get around it and all will be well. But if the drive is failing, I will be very annoyed because it was a significant hit to my budget. The drive status is “verified” which means that the Mac thinks it is working fine and the internal SMART algorithm has not recognized problems.

I am a retired software engineer with a moderate amount of hardware experience. Modern SSDs are amazingly small and light, and are immune to physical bumps that would destroy a spinning drive. But if the chip quality control and the spare-block algorithms are faulty, maybe not quite so great.

Update (11/22/2019)

Adding to my earlier reply:

A while ago I had 3 read errors during clone backup of my 2 year old Crucial 1TB SSD. All were in small system files close together in the file hierarchy. I was able to delete them and replace them with good copies from my Time Machine backup.

To do that I had to reboot from an external drive that had a cloned copy of my system, because system files on the current boot drive cannot be modified. Probably they were all in one weak SSD data block that failed. If the drive firmware worked as designed, that bad block will not be reused. I have had no new errors in over two months of operation since I replaced the files. So, I think the drive as a whole is still working fine.

If you are use to the speed of the old Mac file system, even on an SSD the new more secure APFS file system is slower. Booting takes about twice as long as with the old Mac HFS+ file system, but is still much faster than a spinning hard drive.

And as of Catalina, any bootable drive (even an external clone) must be APFS.

Update (11/22/2019)

For anyone setting up a new SSD, creating a fresh OS install then using Migration Assistant is a fine way to go.

In my case, I had a 500 GB running system and the only problem was three tiny text files that had been corrupted by a bad block in the SSD. Luckily they were not causing any operational problems. Thanks to the usual excellent email support for my SuperDuper! cloning program (well worth its modest price), I had been able to clone the drive with a setting that logged and skipped bad files. So I had the exact paths to all of them, which I could just paste into Finder’s Go menu. I booted off a working clone, then copied the three files from a drive that had good copies of all of them. It was really very easy because the internal drive was not the boot drive at the time. I still had to give permission to remove and copy each one but really the hardest part was waiting for the Mac to slooowwwllly boot from the external clone. (I could probably have done it all with Terminal while booted from the internal drive, but file operations with superuser permissions are too risky when there is a safer, slower way.)

I use a pair of cheap Seagate 2TB drives for Time Machine backup. Their speed does not really matter when the backups are happening in the background anyway. Always one drive is in my safety deposit box at the bank and the other is active. Swap every week or two. Good insurance against ransomware and other disasters. For cloning I have two smaller drives one of which still has a Mojave clone. I will soon update it to Catalina since I am finding Catalina gives noticeably better battery life and runs 64-bit software with decent speed. I have a Parallels virtual machine with Mojave to run the few 32-bit programs I still use.

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Trust me its the cable ;-}

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It's always the cable 9 times out of 10. If it wasn't we wouldn't warn new 2011/12 owners to change it ASAP for when they get a different drive.

They fail for no good reason a lot.

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@alfromottawa - While you knew how to patch your files after the bad clone, most people wouldn't know how. The better approach is not cloning at all! Install a fresh macOS on to the drive from the start and use Migration Assistant to bring your stuff over. Yes, its slower but unlike cloning it is verifying each file before moving it over.

As far as file systems: SATA based systems work much better using HFS+ file system over APFS as APFS needs more queues which newer PCIe drives offer.

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@danj I could probably figure it out, but to be honest I'd rather start from ground zero with the base OS.

Better to start with a clean slate since cloning is russian roulette these days. It was fine up until 10.7 and the recovery partition. You can smell a cloned rat by the lack of a recovery partition.

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Either of these two drives will work in your system. Just make sure you replace the cable as @nick outlined. I also recommend you use a BIC pen ink straw (or other pen ink straw) to help you form the bends you’ll need to put in the cable. You don’t want a sharp fold as that damages the thin foil wires inside . Using the straw to help form the radius arc.

As far as NVMe that’s a newer interface standard within PCIe interface. Here’s a breakdown:

Block Image

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Too bad you can't retrofit NVMe in older systems :-(. What a difference it makes; it's night and day even with an SSD.

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