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2.26 or 2.4 GHz / White plastic unibody enclosure

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MacBook not turning on

I got this MacBook from a friend and it had a bulged battery and dint turn on, I did a SMC reset and after a couple of tries it started but was stuck in recovery mode, I upgraded the ram to 4gb and removed the battery, i tried installing a OS from usb and it won't recognise that but It recognised a external USB keyboard and mouse, I formatted the hard drive in a windows system and after that I got a folder question mark, next Morning when I tried to turn it on it wouldn't turn on, it's was like the laptop was dead, charger shows greenlight, I tied doing SMC reset, pram reset, tried plugging in the battery, installed the original ram but no use now it just won't turn on, the charger is fine, please help. I can manage repairs, I do have a multimeter, soldering iron so I can manage logic board repair, I have worked in windows laptops but not Mac.

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Most Helpful Answer

Did you get/use a knockoff or genuine charger? A lot of the times you see these old machines with major issues, it’s because someone decided to use a knockoff charger at some point in the machine’s life and it damaged the motherboard. If that’s the case, the knockoffs have this bad habit of taking out the motherboard because they can’t die alone for some reason and want a dead friend. This isn’t my first time having to deal with this problem either nor hearing they used a knockoff charger.

Anyway, if that’s not the case or you want to see, the DC-In board is an inexpensive fix you can try. Refer to this guide for the part and information on installing it.

If this doesn’t fix the problem, there’s a good chance you will need to have the motherboard repaired at the component level, which has a bad habit of totaling out older machines like this.

Update 6/24/19

Now that the DC-In board and charger have been ruled out, check the battery with CoconutBattery and add the screenshots you take to this question. Apple’s batteries last longer then the majority of PC’s, but they tend to break down and fail after 5 years of use and you are dealing with a 9-10 year old system.

Update 6/27/19

If you have a 60W or 85W charger (85W works better since it will compensate for the lack of a battery), hold the power button for 10 seconds and then plug the power adapter in. The fans will run at full blast all the time but that will rule out if it's because it doesn't have a battery installed.

MacBook Unibody Model A1342 MagSafe Board Imagem

Guide

MacBook Unibody Model A1342 MagSafe Board Replacement

Difficulty:

Moderado

10 - 30 minutes

Mac Laptop Imagem

Guide

How to Test a Mac Laptop's Battery

Difficulty:

Muito fácil

3 - 5 minutes

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Hey! thanks for the input, I'm using a genuine apple charger and not a knock-off I did take it apart and check the DC board it seems to be fine and I also checked the fuse next to the port and that seems to be fine as well, I did see in some forum's where people had this weird problem after wiping their hard drive, this was working perfectly the night before and now poof! It's dead for no apparent reason, I have tried pretty much every before positing here as a last resort, the magsafe charger does show green and I did try jumping the pads after removing the keyboard connector.. no luck! I checked the voltage with in the pads it has 3.56v I have to see the schematics to see if thats alright, sometimes if the sata cable if ripped off the MacBook won't turn on as well tried that too it's fine but the machine is not turning on, i guess it's time to get the multimeter and check. Will keep you posted. I do welcome other suggestions too.

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Good. Knockoffs can (and often do) board level damage. I would still watch out for that kind of evidence just in case that's being held back out of fear.

You did the right thing by starting out with a genuine charger. That is the only way to prevent the machine from being killed or getting worse. See my update for another common age failure.

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Thanks Nick, the battery is swollen so it can be ruled out, I will definitely check with another dc inboard just to be sure, who knows maybe the problem is as simple as that, thanks for the response I guess I will download a schematic and start checking for Voltage

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Also the machine doesn't turn on whatsoever the charger shows greenlight which means the SMC is okay when I do a SMC reset the lights does go orange and then back on.

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It's unbelievability common for sellers to include knockoffs, especially with used systems. I'm not saying your friend also ended up using one that fried it, but it's not a rare occurrence either so that's why I consider it a red flag to watch for on an older system like this.

Even my current Mac (2011 MBP for reference) came with one but the seller said it was generic so I wasn't misled or anything - but it was 100% confirmed to be a knockoff. I've always told people who find a used Mac to budget (or set aside) at least $79+tax and to get a known authentic charger from Apple for this exact reason. Best case scenario is you do not need it (but you probably will). Best Buy also sells the charger as well for a few bucks less but not by much ($2 less at Best Buy for the 60W).

I've also added a way to run the notebook without a battery to rule out the possibility of needing a battery until you know it's viable to repair.

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