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Explore comprehensive repair and disassembly guides for a wide range of food-cooling appliances. This is your go-to solution for troubleshooting and fixing refrigerators, fridge-freezers, and other cooling units. Whether you're dealing with common issues or looking for step-by-step instructions on specific models, our detailed guides cover everything you need to keep your appliances running efficiently. Perfect for both DIY enthusiasts and professional repair technicians.

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My refrigerator not cooling enough.

I have a GE GTH21SCXASS which had felt warm and when I put a thermometer in it read 55. I figured out the evaporator fan motor wasn't running and there was ice blocking the vent between the freezer and fridge so I cleared the ice and replaced the fan motor. The fan is now running and the fridge is colder but the fridge is often getting up to 45 degrees still on it's coldest setting so I am thinking there is some sort of secondary issue. I am not sure how to diagnose what else could be wrong or what part should be replaced next.

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Hi,

Is the compressor running all the time trying to drive down the temp?

What is the temp in the freezer when the fridge temp is 45 deg? Is it approx 0 deg F as per normal or is it also warmer?

Don't be surprised if the freezer temp occasionally measures approx 32 deg F. This happens when the fridge is in auto defrost mode (occurs once every 8-12 hours and lasts for about 20-30 minutes). Compressor is stopped and temp allowed to rise in freezer to allow the ice build up on the evap unit to melt and drain away. The process is aided by the defrost heater. The temp in the freezer should not go above 32-33 degrees to prevent damage to the evap unit.

The process is controlled by a defrost timer.

Your model has a bi-metal switch which controls the action.

Before replacing anything you need to work out whether the problem is related to just the fridge section only or also the freezer section as this will help determine what to check next.

If it is the fridge section only is the damper operating correctly or is the thermostat in the fridge OK etc.

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Hi,

First, thank you so much for the reply.

The compressor is not running constantly, even when the fridge is sitting at nearly 45 there are times when it's not running, once again it's on the coldest setting.

I have had the thermometer mostly in the fridge but the freezer seems to hold close to zero the times I have checked.

Damper? Do you mean that flapper that is moved by the knob for freezer temp? If so, it appeared to be working just fine. How would I check the thermostat? Being that the freezer is holding temp fine and there is now cold air getting to the fridge that there is something wrong with what temp the fridge thinks it is? This leads be to believe thermostat but then I see all these other components and just have no experience with appliances. Could the thermostat now be reading the wrong temp or be finicky sending signal? It definitely functions in some capacity as it will click from off to on.

Thanks again, I appreciate any help with this.

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I have also this problem but i think the compressor is ok because the Freezer is working fine (-4° at position 1 of the Freezer control board), but the refrigerador is not (42.8° at position 1 of refrigerator control board and 49° at position 5). My refrigerator is a two side by side doors. Thank you for your help

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@joninarritu

What is the model number of your refrigerator?

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Hi,

I was a bit concerned when you initially said that the vent from the freezer to the fridge was blocked with ice as this usually indicates a problem with the auto defrost or the drain tube from the freezer, especially if the evap fan was iced up as well, or even if it wasn’t.

Since you say that the freezer is OK (and if the evap unit is not icing up more than what is normal - i.e. auto defrost is working OK) it would appear that there may be a problem with the thermostat - part #113 which is located in the fridge section of the refrigerator.

I do not know what the correct resistance measurement for the thermostat is, perhaps if you call the number in the link provided they may be able to advise you of this, so that you can test your thermostat.

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That's the exact conclusion I came to a bit before seeing your post and I went ahead and ordered a thermostat., part #113. So fingers crossed replacing it fixes the problem. Thank you for your thoughts.

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Pergunta mais útil

I listed all the causes including the ones you tried in case someone else is also looking for this answer.

Cause 1

Condenser Coils are Dirty

The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty—if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.

Cause 2

Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 3

Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

Cause 4

Start Relay

The start relay works in conjunction with the start winding to start the compressor. If the start relay is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail to run or may not run at all. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the start relay is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity between the run and start terminal sockets. If the start relay does not have continuity between the run and start terminal sockets, replace it. In addition, if the start relay has a burnt odor, replace it.

Cause 5

Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may prevent the refrigerant system from running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.

Cause 6

Temperature Control Board

The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the temperature control board is defective, it will stop sending voltage to the cooling system. However, this is not a common occurrence. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.

Cause 7

Start Capacitor

The start capacitor provides a boost of power to the compressor during start-up. If the start capacitor isn’t working, the compressor may not start. As a result, the refrigerator will not cool. To determine if the start capacitor is defective, test it with a multimeter. If the start capacitor is defective, replace it.

Cause 8

Thermistor

The thermistor monitors the refrigerator temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may not run when necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.

Cause 9

Compressor

The compressor is a pump which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the refrigerator won’t cool. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, check the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the continuity between the electrical pins on the side of the compressor. If there is an open circuit, the compressor is likely defective. If the compressor is defective, it must be replaced by a licensed technician.

Cause 10

Main Control Board

The main control board might be defective. However, this is almost never the cause. Before replacing the main control board, test all of more commonly defective parts. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.



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