Clogged or restricted exhaust vent air flow is the most frequent cause of a thermal fuse blowing. Check the lint screen for lint or a build-up of debris that could be inhibiting air flow through the dryer. Wash the lint screen with water and a nylon brush and then thoroughly dry it and replace it in the lint screen housing. Check the flexible vent hose behind the dryer for kinks or clogs. Check the exhaust vent duct system to the outside of the home for restrictions. You may need to have a service clean the duct system.
If you did not find any obvious problems in the exhaust vent system to the outside of the home, then I recommend conducting the following test:
Before replacing the thermal fuse again, try these steps:
Unplug the dryer to disconnect electrical power.
Temporarily tape the two wires that go to the thermal fuse together to essentially "bypass" or "jump" the thermal fuse. Use electrical tape to properly insulate the connection and avoid contact of bare wire contacts with the dryer cabinet. NOTE: Do not leave the thermal fuse bypassed following this temporary diagnostic test. The thermal fuse is an essential safety component that must normally be in place to safely run the dryer.
Reassemble the dryer and plug it back in.
Fill the dryer with a medium load of wet laundry.
Clean the lint screen and make sure it is properly in place in the lint screen housing.
Pull the flexible exhaust vent hose off of the back of the dryer so that it will vent directly into the laundry room.
Position the dryer so that you can measure the temperature of the exhaust air from the middle of the vent in the back of the dryer with an accurate thermometer.
Start the dryer on a timed cycle with high heat.
Measure the temperature of the air coming out of the middle of the exhaust vent behind the dryer.
The dryer should heat up to about 150 degrees. The heating element should then shut off until the temperature decreases 15 to 20 degrees. The element should then cycle back on. The dryer should continue to cycle between about 130 to 150 degrees.
If the dryer heats up way past 150 degrees, then you will likely need to replace the operating thermostat that is right beside the thermal fuse. You could also have a heating element that is shorted to the cabinet and heating constantly.
NOTE: Stop the dryer if it heats past 180 degrees. Do not let it continue to run and heat past this temperature.
If the dryer is cycling properly with the vent hose disconnected, then the likely cause of your thermal fuse blowing is the vent duct system to the outside of the home.
NOTE: Be sure to replace the thermal fuse before running the dryer beyond this temporary component test.
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Hi Jonathan, please provide us with your model no of it, we will need to check the circuit diagram / schematics of your model for an idea.
Looping in @mayer, @oldturkey03 for their professional advice
por Augustine
Hi thank you for the detailed troubleshooting steps. I basically did something similar with a new thermal fuse. I cycled the dryer for a good 30 mind. Everything seemed to work fine. Then the fuse blew again.
I have checked everywhere for clogged lint , everything is clear and free of blocks.
I looked inside the heating element and did not see the wires touching the casing. I did notice though the heating element gets extremely hot within a few seconds of starting the heater? Is this normal or is it a clue to faulty thermostat?
por Jonathan
replace the operating thermostat
por mayer
I have a 3000 series may tag dryer and I have the same problem..the fuse keeps blowing and the tech has changed the fuse...heating element and finally the thermostat and the fuse keeps blowing. The vent ducts have also been cleaned.. any ideas what I can do now except buy a new dryer
por James Thomas Brown
We kept having the problem of the thermal fuse blowing and replaced all the parts, cleaned everything out and it kept blowing. We tested the wires and the motor. The wires for the fuse all run through a switch on the motor and we were looking and accidentally broke the switch trying to open it up and discovered that it looked like it was shorting out, we couldn't get just the pluggable switch so we bought a new motor and now it is working again and not blowing the thermal fuse.
por Robyn Ashe
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