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MacBook dead, not charging, new charger

Old charger was giving me trouble (mostly cable) for some time.

While working, noticed the battery going down, not charging (no light on charger connector). Decided that the cable tried to fix it (fixed it about 4 time before) - nothing. Battery discharged completely, MacBook died.

Disconnected battery, plugged Charger back. Reset SMC as was suggested.

No sign of life, no light on charger or on the front side of the MacBook, no sounds, just dead.

Very low on money, set on trying anything before taking to repair shop. Please advise!

Update (08/04/2017)

A glimpse of good news. Took the battery out, attached the charger, left the book for half an hour, it came back to life with green light on the Charger connector and power indicator in the front of the book.

Worked on the MacBook for an hour or so, decided to check the battery once more. Cleaned battery contacts, connected the battery, connected the charger - MacBook dead again.

Took the battery out, connected the charger, after half an hour MB suddenly reacted to the last of several tries and came to life again.

So, it seems the battery after all - but why such a long time before the MacBook decides to start up?

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What happens if you long press the power button to turn it on?

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The problem is not yet solved. I had to power MacBook down, then later tried to start it up again - nothing, no green lights on charger cable or the front of MB, fans aren't starting.

Dead again - and need help again. (battery is taken out).

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When I press the power button nothing happens at all now. Last time it came to life in a half hour or so, now it is just dead. Don't understand, I worked on it for an hour (without a battery)

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Most Helpful Answer

How long does it take for the light on the charger to light up? This is very important. If the light doesn't turn on immediately then this suggests there is a failure with the one-wire circuit or other power rails. It's a critical circuit for current sensing and allows the device to charge when the charger is connected. On top of this, the one-wire circuit is also powered by G3H. If G3H is missing, then the device will not boot. If it still isn't working now, it sounds to me like some important power rails aren't being created.

It's possible your battery could have caused a failure along G3H, depending on how long you have had it. It's hard to say without actually looking at it and diagnosing it under a microscope.

Even without a battery, the Macbook should still turn on when plugged in to the charger. The fact that it doesn't tells me G3H is shot. Of course, it could also be any number of other things. There's no way to know for sure without diagnosing it on a board-level.

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@muffy -The answer is helpful for better understanding. The green light comes back fast if I just take the connector out and immediately put it back - about 3 sec. After the charger was out for some time it takes 30 sec or much more .

I didn't know what G3H was and googled it, found that there are two: PPBUS_G3H and PP3V42_G3H, didn't have time to explore more, but it looks that the problem is not simple and may be not fixable by me, although I've done a lot of small electronic repairs with some success.

It looks that something happened already after I've taken the battery out - the unit went live on charger alone, although with some hesitation. Went completely dead after coming back for a short time once more.

So, is there any way to deal with G3H on my not very high electronics knowledge and experience? Or I'm being driven into logic board replacement? Please advise! I don't have any testing gear except a pretty nice multimeter and a bunch of small tools I've used last time to put extra memory and a new hybrid drive into this unit.

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Just remembered, some say (on the Web) that it could be the power unit just next to the charger connector. Could it be? It easier on my pocket (that's practically empty) than a logic board. To be continued.

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It's possible you have a bad DC-in board (the tiny board that the charger plugs into that then plugs into the mainboard). Those boards are cheap and I recommend trying a new one before jumping to a board level issue.

If it still doesn't work after trying a new DC-in board, bust out a microscope, schematic, and boardview and get to probing and checking for critical power rails.

Given how old the MacBook is I wouldn't recommend a board repair or even a replacement. From an econominal perspective it's probably better off sold as a donor for parts or used by you to get some hands on practice with practical micro soldering if you desire to learn it.

If there's data you need to recover from the Macbook you should be able to pull the drive and recover any files you need. You may even be able to put it in another Macbook and use it like nothing ever happened.

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Thanks Cody! I will definitely try the DC-in board. I've just replaced the old drive with a new 500GB Hybrid one and put the old one in a USB enclosure about a month ago. Sure I will pull out the drive - it has lots of necessary data.

I've done a lot of soldering in my life, but never any micro-soldering. If it comes to getting rid of the MB, I cannot buy any new or even recent one - I'm on a survival budget. Will try to find what I can get from selling mine for parts.

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