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Lançado em junho de 2012, modelo A1278. Processador Intel com Turbo Boost, até 512 MB DDR5 de RAM vídeo

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Black screen and fan revs no chime

My macbook pro 2012 turns on but shows no display and all i can do is see how much battery life it has and hear it rev up the fan like a engine, i can only hear the fan revving up would that mean my logic board is stuffed?

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I have fixed this problem before where the fan goes loud with black screen.

I had to get rid of a short that was on the logic board (I made it with solder accidentally)

Then it worked after that.

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Can you please explain what you did please

Thank you

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@Dwl Me can you explain what you did to fix it? Like what you did on the computer? Thanks a lot this will help a lot

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Connect the power adapter to the Mac. On the MacBook / Pro's keyboard, hold down the Shift+Control+Option keys and the Power button at the same time. Release all keys and the power button at the same time – the little light on the MagSafe adapter may change colors briefly to indicate the SMC has reset.

UPDATE

We need to know exactly what it will do. I would hook it up to an external monitor to try to isolate the problem. What dos it do when you reset the PRAM?

Here's how to reset your PRAM:

Shut down your machine. Yes, all the way down, not sleep or logging out.

Press the power button and then press command-option-p-r. ...

Hold those keys down until your Mac reboots again and you hear the startup chime.

Let go of the keys and let your Mac reboot normally.

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Have already tried that and also resetting the PRAM

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External monitor shows nothing and resetting PRAM does nothing at all

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Hi, I've been having a similar issue in my mid 2012 macbook pro but I get the chime and the screen stays black and the fans sometimes over throttle. It happened yesterday too but it had somehow started working eventually, pls help!!

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my MacBook pro mid 2012 is turning fans only. the screen is black when i press caps light is off. it seems the laptop is off, only fans is on. What can i do

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hey jonaijumba pls help me, i have the same problem in my imac 2009 model,pls

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If it is not chiming, it means it is not passing POST checks. Try booting it with the battery disconnected. It most likely is the logic board signal ppvcore_s0_cpu, so check that out as well if you have a multimeter (you will need to get a board view and schematic for 820-3115).

Most likely is a logic board issue, possibly dead CPU or voltage leading to the CPU? Check the board for liquid damage as well, and clean if it is present (but note the areas effected).

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I think it's water damaged but i've tried cleaning it with apl alcohol and the same thing still accures, It shows no display on anything and even without the ram and hdd in it makes the same reaction no matter what i do

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Press the caps lock key about a minute after pressing the power button, does the caps lock light up? If so, it is more likely an issue related to the LCD circuit, and the fan spin can be caused by a sensor (for example, bad trackpad can cause this). Have you tried outputting the image to a TV/monitor via cable, to make sure it is still booting fine? Can you add a picture of the area where it was liquid damaged? You may need to take it to someone who has an ultrasonic cleaner, in case there is liquid under any ICs

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External monitor shows nothing on screen, ill try the caps lock method but i dont think it will work

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Ok. If the caps lock key does not light up, it means this is not getting into an OS. Due to it not chiming either, it is not passing the initial checks as I though, so it will be a more complex fault on the logic board. You can replace this which will resolve the issue, or take it to someone who can diagnose and repair the logic board (if possible, could even be a dead CPU)

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FYI, newer MacBook Pros don't chime after POST any more, so not hearing a chime doesn't mean a problem. Really, the only way to confirm POST in a no video situation is to see if caps lock responds.

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had same issue found liquid damage sings cleaned and worked for me

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I get the same issue guys maybe is the logic board like mention above I had the bottom shell remove and some how touched the fan and it just died reboot and now this issue I really like the 2011 model it did everything for me. Should I repair???

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I have the same symptoms on Macbook Pro 13 Early 2011. It was loading OS very slowly and had a few malfunctioning keys on the keyboard. I replaced the entire keyboard, track pad and palmrest assembly, cloned the SATA hard drive in to a new SSD and placed the latter in it. It was loading a little faster. Everything looked good. Then I placed the cover on it to close. It appears a black screw fell on the logicboard which was live at the time. It must have shorted one or more circuit board components. I quickly shutdown the system. Then started encountering the symptoms described in this forum. At first it would not power up. Then I removed the battery connector and the AC adapter power connector. I held the power button for about 30 seconds to drain any charges on the logicboard. Then i connected the AC adapter and pressed the power button. The board came alive with a furious fan speed, without any video display or POSTing. I attempted the SMC and NPRAM resetting in order. No dice. I am gravitating towards the suggestion by Reece @reecee : “(you will need to get a board view and schematic for 820-3115). The logicboard has definitely undergone all run of the mill resuscitative runs and failed to revive itself. I reckon it may be time to just replace the logicboard on account that cost of Macbook Pro 13 Early 2011 is considerably low presently.

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My apologies for the decidedly negative tone of my previous posting. This is supposed to be a technology solution forum, where participants share repair methods. Mine almost reads like a political techno babble. I will definitely give it one last shot at repair. And by golly if I succeed, I will gladly share my methods by posting here again. Good luck to ya all. !!

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Please do share if you figure it out, I am in the EXACT same boat!!

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Dude I have the exact same problem. I replaced the keyboard and put new thermal paste on the cpu and gpu. After that I turned it on and it was fine . It loaded pretty well and my keyboard was working and I went to my login screen and logged in. But after that about 10 sec later the screen became black and stayed like that no matter what. So in order to reset the pram nvram and smc I shut it down and booted it up again. but then the display won’t even turn on and there was no boot chime either. The caps lock key did t light up but the fans were running in the background.

Pls tell me u were able to fix ur system and if so how

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Were you able to fix it?

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Same issue but on 2015 model

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I had the same issue with my 2013 macbook pro. I plugged the power cord in, and the fans would spin up, stop, and then continue doing that. I tried all the commands. What worked was disconnecting the power cord, holding down the power button, then connecting the power cord. The fans spun up, chime occurred, and I was able to use the computer!

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This worked for me, holding down the power button while I disconnected then reconnected power cable, I held it for 15 seconds after I reconnected and bam it was up, please note: I also had the case open with the battery disconnected while doing this on my late 2012 MacBook Pro 13 inch

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My early 2011, 15” A1286 has the black screen and no chime. Someone suggested rubbing across the keys while power button is pressed - this occasionally got the fans running fast - no chime or display still.

Previously, I removed the logic board and cleaned the heat sink surfaces on the GPU and CPU etc.

I heated the GPU in case this made any difference. New Arctic Silver paste, reassembled, no difference.

Watching this forum for answers…

For what it’s worth: my other workhorse MacBook Pro, late 2011, 15” suddenly got the grey screen halfway thru booting - I found a guy on Youtube who showed how to bypass the faulty GPU, holding CMD/S then power button, then a whole bunch of terminal-type commands. I still use this machine happily, without much loss of resolution.

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You'll need a hardware bypass on the grey screen to permanently disable the GPU. Some software fixes work for a while, but it always comes back. You can even have the GPU reballed and it will work for a while, but overheat again and return. The only "permanent" fix is to jtag the unit using dosdude1's method. Or, you could bypass it using RealMacMod's method. Both are found in Google. I've done several and both involve, either soldering wires to pads to jtag code onto the logic board. Or, software and a jumper cable to bypass and keep the sleep function working. Either way, you're faced with making the system believe that there is no other graphics processor but the onboard intel gpu. It was an Apple recall to replace the Radeon gpu, but even after replacing it, they still eventually failed. I stay clear of that year, but MadMod is only 30 minutes away from me. So, if I do get one in, I let him do it for me for a modest price. You can buy that software on his site, but without the physical bypass, it's only a temporary fix, until you clear the PRAM or NVRAM.

As far as the top question, I’ve had luck with turning off the unit, taking the battery out. Hold down the power button for about 30 seconds, the apply power by the power supply while holding down, Continue to hold down for another 30 seconds. Let go of the power button. It should start up after you push the power button after letting go. The fans will be on high, but let it boot all the way through to the home screen, if it makes it. Then do a normal shut down, allowing it to spin and write it’s exit code. Wait a few minutes, then restart normally. The fans should spin up, but then return to the normal state. You can also start up in safe mode by holding the shift key down all the way through the boot procedure. It’s really a bad instruction set at boot that needs to be re-written (kext) from my experience. Getting it to boot all the way through is paramount in rewriting the exit code properly. It’s a trial and error thing, but that has worked for me in the past. I’ve also used the system boot USB drive, to boot from and run diagnostics on the board. Removing ram and changing the ram amount or configuration will force it to re-examine the parameters of the board and environment. This has also worked to force it to boot slow writing a new kext file to return the fans and logic board state to normal. Good luck.

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