Hi @christran123
Just verifying that it is the evaporator fan that is operating?
This fan is located behind a panel inside the freezer compartment. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is located outside and under the compartments near the compressor motor.
The evaporator fan should be running if the compressor is running, but it will stop when a door (either door) is opened and start again when the door is closed. The condenser fan can run whether a door is open or not.
You can test if the evaporator fan is operating by either listening to it stop and start when you open and close a door or if you manually operate the door switch, located in the door jamb which should turn the lights on and off and also turn the fan off and on when a door is opened and closed, you should feel the air come out of the vents. Operating the door switch just fools the controls into thinking that the door is shut when it is open.
If you can’t hear the evap fan or feel the airflow, it may be iced up, faulty or there may be a problem with the fan power circuit.
Disconnect the power from the fridge and then remove the panel, inside at the back of the freezer compartment (go in from the front of the fridge) and check the evap unit and the fan.
If the fan is not iced up and not operating when the power is reconnected and the compressor is running and the door switch is manually operated you need a multimeter -example only to measure the fan motor resistance. Disconnect the power to the fridge and then disconnect the fan motor from the wiring harness and use the Ohmmeter function of the meter to measure the motor’s resistance. If the fan motor is OK then you will have to do “live” testing of the power to the fan. Connect the meter as a Voltmeter (set to 500V AC range) across the fan’s wiring harness connectors - you can leave the fan unplugged - reconnect the power to the fridge and when the compressor is running, operate the door switch and then check the voltage reading on the meter. If it is not there then there is a problem further back towards the control board or in the control board.
Apologies if you know how to use a DMM.
Be safety aware as the fan operates at mains supply voltage which can be lethal
If the fan is iced up, it may be a faulty defrost heater or a blocked drain between the freezer compartment and the evaporator pan under the refrigerator.
Do not use a hair dryer on hot to defrost the evap unit and fan as this can damage the evap unit. Let it defrost naturally by disconnecting the power to the fridge and leaving the door open and occasionally using a hair dryer on the coolest setting for short periods at a time. You’ll need plenty of towels etc because if the drain isn’t blocked then the evap pan will overflow under the fridge due to the amount of ice melt
After you have defrosted the evap unit and fan use the DMM to test the heater element using the same method as for the fan motor. You can test its’ resistance (usually 25-50 Ohms) but testing the power supply for the heater may be problematic as it is only powered during the auto defrost cycle and I don’t know how to manually force an auto defrost cycle to occur for your model fridge Again be safety aware as it also operates at mains voltage potential. If the heater element is OK and there wasn’t any water coming out underneath the refrigerator then pour a measured amount of water (small glass?) down the drain hole which is located beneath the evap. unit and check that it all gets to the evap pan under the fridge. Some drain tubes have a J curve at the bottom just above the evap pan which can get clogged and this blocks the whole tube and prevents the meltwater from the defrost cycle getting out to the pan and it backs up and refreezes when the cycle is finished and so on every defrost cycle until the fan is completely iced up
Hopefully a start.
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Hi. I meant I replaced evap demand motor. Sorry. Thank you so much for the help.
por charmane Gantz