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Repair guides and support for your Mitsubishi TV, no longer produced by Mitsubishi Electric.

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Replacing uhp lamp and remove ballast with Xenon lamp and 55W ballast!

Hello. I testing, the mitsubishi wd-57831 dlp TV for fun and hobby . i removed ballast board and replace xenon lamp & kit! now everything is OK but the FB cable has been left unused cable and TV and three attempts to power on but finally off. I think I must be one of the wires would enable the FBI to allow on TV but I do not know which wire in FB cable is for power on tv and dlp system. thanks for your help ...

fb cable=

1- lamp LIT

2- GND

3- +5vs

4- lamp _EN

5- DIM

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I've used the 12v dc from main power supply for 55watt car ballast.

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....which got the light to work, but your TV does not know that it has a different light source. It is still looking for the feedback from the light circuitry and since it can not find it, it does not power up etc.

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thankyou dear oldturkey03 .

i think that one of wires the fb cable is for feedback but i dont know which!

pin1(lamp lit) after detect GND => tv fan s about 1min power on and orange onboard led (dlp board) power on then tv power off and blinking green LED on frount panel (Lamp Led)

pin4(lamp-en) afte detect GND=> 3 atthempts tv to on but power off and fixed orange LED (status)

pin5(dm) not effected(3 attemps to power on then off all panel leds ).

Pin 1 is likely to feedback but I do not know what signal should go!

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Just out of curiosity. Do you still have the old lamp and assembly? How about connecting the old assembly to the FB cable?

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old lamp and ballast hasbeen blow!!! :D

this is service manual pdf:

http://www.deadvirus.com/mits/mitsubishi...

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Solução escolhida

samir, by your wiring description looks like #1 is for the feedback loop that the lamp is on (lit) and #4 is most likely lamp enabled. Remember that this TV used to shut down if the lamp did not work etc. So with your conversion you most likely do not have that feedback loop. You will have to get a schematic and trace those wires and see where they connect and what senses the signal. Most likely a transistor on the board.

Update (08/30/2015)

May be you can narrow it down by running the error code check. Potentially it could tell you exactly which part of the missing feedback circuitry is shutting it down. Error Code Operational Check

Note: The TV must be in “Shut Down” and not have been switched Off, to perform the Error Code Operational

Check. When the TV is switched Off, the code automatically resets to “12” No Error.

Pressing the front panel “INPUT” and “MENU” buttons at the same time, and holding for 5 seconds,

activates the Error Code Mode. The LED flashes denoting a two digit Error Code, or indicating no problem

has occured since the last Initalization.

Note: The front panel buttons must be used, NOT those on the Remote Control.

• The number of flashes indicates the value of the MSD (tens digit) of the Error Code.

• The flashing then pauses for approximately 1/2 second.

• The LED then flashes indicating the value of the LSD (ones digit) of the Error Code.

• The Error Code is repeated a total of 5 times.

Example: If the Error Code is “23”, the LED will flash two times, pause, and then flash three times.

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