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Model A1297 / 2.66, 2.8, 2.93, or 3.06 GHz Core 2 Duo processor

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Why does the charger light stay green or does not turn ON?


I received a beat up MacBook Pro 17" "not charging." Board # 820-2610-A

Here's what I observed after removing the board from the laptop:

With battery connected, the charger will turn bright green then extremely dim green. But disconnect and try again will make the charger light blink once brightly then turn OFF.. try again and I get another erratic response or no light at all, etc.

Without battery connected, no light on the charger.

Either way, the laptop does not start: the fans do not spin.

Owner says he leaves it connected and it will charge very slowly over a few days; after which he can turn the laptop ON, but the battery will drain extremely fast (I believe it drains fast simply because it is 6-years old). I don't have a new battery to test it with.

A new DC-board does not change anything with the issue.

This will be my first attempt at troubleshooting and hopefully repairing a Mac motherboard. Thanks for any help that anyone can provide.

Additional note: I noticed a pink LCI underneath the trackpad, and 2 spots of liquid. One of them near U7000. See pictures.

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Get an idea of the condition of the battery and let us know your results. The best tool for this that I've used is Coconut Battery.

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coconutBattery is a great utility (as were coconut flavour's other utilities, coconutID and coconutWiFi, now discontinued). But coconutBattery won't tell you anything if the computer won't power up.


Hi Mayer,

Mac is acting out without the battery. Charger is not lighting green like it should with battery removed. It lights green then turns dim and may be off.

I found traces of liquid next to one of the major components, but did not have replacement parts as it's an old model, so I sent it back.


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Ok what's next? Cleaning corrosion or resetting SMC???? Resetting SMC fixes water damage like hitting your car fixes dead battery, so let's move onto what makes sense.

Ultrasonic the board, or clean it as best as you can, and measure what you get on every pin of D7005. You should see charger voltage on all pins. Then measure pin 2 of U7000, should be the same thing.

Then measure CHGR_ACIN pin of U7000, should be 3.7v to 4v.

After all of this I am sure you will want to measure R7020/R7021 and R7051/R7052 and the traces to the shunt resistor for current sensing, and the traces from those to U7000.

Also what does onewire section look like? Onewire circuit is insane on these boards. Start easy measuring pin 14 of U7000 and see if you get 2 to 3 volts there and we will continue.

Do homework and come back with results.

Oh also of course this six year old POS battery is dead.

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I forgot to mention that following Louis' good advice who strangly went missing, I had already "ultrasonic'd" and toasted that board. By the way, zzz, I know you already, don't I ??? :)


Regular consumers were googling and finding my business and sending things and behaving like nightmares which was never my intention, which I assume will stop with new cryptic username. My goal was to give the proper information necessary for people to repair their own machines, not to get them to send them to me(although jessa's profile with the kitty picture was just too cute).

I think you made the right decision. You fix this issue and then the balls under the LVDS MUX start cracking and then the MCP 1.05v power supply dies and they're screaming that you "scammed" them into fixing a six and a half year old computer. I don't blame you at all for handing it back to them!


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Thanks for your reply. I'll actually save it for next time I have corrosion on the ISL or it looks like it's messed up.

I don't have the board anymore. When I did, I downloaded the schematics, tested the resistors, and continuity on most of the ISL circuit. I'm new to this so I probably missed a few things. I don't remember the voltage measurements that I took, but I certainly did not work in the systematic manner that you describe. I did want to replace U7000 to see if that would fix it, but could not for lack of replacement parts. And since this board was so old, and the owner was not ready to afford the time to wait for me to source a donor board, I decided I will give it back. Sometimes I do repairs for the purpose of learning, but not in this case.

Thanks again.

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Try to reset SMC

but i feel explained fault coming from Power management module or power adapter. modern power supplies having better short circuit protection system. LED blinking means there should be sort circuit fault or your power adapter not able to provide enough power to boot up the system. i suggest you to start troubleshooting from power input.

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