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Apple's 2012 first-generation 7.9-inch iPad mini, with 16, 32, or 64 GB of storage and an A5 processor.

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Wont power up after screen repair?

Okay, first off, I ordered the digitizer for the iPad. Once it got here, I began dissasembly. After I had finished and was ready to install the new digtizer, I realized that The connectors looked different. After some research, i came to find that you have to desolder the circuit board from the old one and solder it to the new one. I did so. I also soldered on the home button. I was finally relieved to be done with that tedious soldering. I started to assemble, and after I had the digitizer and lcd connectors connected I put the metal plate in, then just sat the lcd and digitizer in the frame so I could test it. There is no sign of power whatsoever. I tried to plug it into a charger. Everything. Please help.

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High Alex! Gather another 100.000 unsatisfied customers, meet at Cupertino, build a pile of iCrap Minis, pour a gallon of regular unleaded, flic a match and

yell: ' Steve is dead and so will be Apple' ! Make sure that CNN, WKARP, &&& lots of cameras'n'microphones are around! Speak loud and clearly that U are really !@^&&* off with Apple products & Apple behavior!!!! That might help!

Sometimes U have to kick balls in to order to achieve a 'brainreaction'!!

Good Luck!

AlexThe Kraut

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Alexander deLarge, how is this answer going to help Alex to fix his device?

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does it make a sound when the charger is plugged in?

if not, take the metal plate out, disconnect the battery and then connect it

power it on again and see if the apple logo appears on the LCD display

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There should be a battery connector (long rectangle next to the LCD connector), remove that for a few seconds then plug it back it, that should do it.

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I have similar problem, lcd not working after digitizer replacement. I bought a new lcd and also replace it and still not working.

It power up, it makes tipical sound while plugin charger and computer sees it as external drive.

Help please.

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Did you get a response to this and were you able to fix it? Mine is doing the same thing.

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Alfredo, did you fix your problem? I am having the same issue here and I couldn't find a solution.

Someone help us please.

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Hi, no, I did not find a solution, but to replace the entire logic board, so I did that, bought one on ebay for 75 usd, and its working great, but I have another problem now.

After finishing assembly, the digitizer presses itself on different places, zooms in and out, keyboard, randomly and very crazy. I guess the digitizer is faulty or maybe I bent the cable flex too much.

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Hello, I have found that if you apply some polyamide tape to the edges of the bezel or edge it will take care of the ghost or phantom touches. Hope this helps.

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I got the same problem no solution so far ;-(

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This will fix faulty home buttons, lock buttons and crazy touch screens as long as you certain everything else went perfectly with the install (please test digitiser by lifting up from base very slightly from home button end remembering that there are ribbon cables underneath and trying buttons touch etc to find out if this is your problem)

please see diagram and transfer tapes from old to new digitiser

Block Image

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Chances are that the problem is being caused by the soldering. The soldering you need to do to make sure this works correctly cannot be done with the stuff you buy at radio shack. Sure some people have gotten that to work, but the ICC problem is a definite culprit. Even redoing it you are at risk of having problems still. Such as the backlight not working.

Have you plugged this iPad into itunes to see if it is recognized? If so, you need to check and see if the response-lessness is actually the backlight not functioning correctly. Also, unplug everything(including the battery). Then in this order plug back in: Digi assembly, LCD, Battery. Attempt a hard reset.

Can you take a close up picture of the soldering job you did and post it?

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Yeah do you know where you can get it FIX THERE IS A BLACK THINK OVER MY SCREEN NOT COOL AND MY HIME BUTTEN DOESNT EVEN WORK

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This issue sounds to me like you have accidentally popped the backlight fuse. This most typically happens with the iPad 4 and iPad Mini, and is caused by removing/reconnecting the digitizer and/or the LCD without first disconnecting the battery (notching a guitar pick and jamming it into the battery connection after removing the single screw is the easiest way to ensure the power is disconnected.) and creating a voltage surge in the logic board. This fuse is very fickle, and will pop very easily.

Shining a bright LED flashlight on an angle at the LCD, should allow you to see the Apple logo, so you know it is indeed the backlight fuse.

If you determine your issue to be the backlight fuse, you are going to have to either jump/bypass the fuse (not really recommended, but a fast fix), or replace it.

There are many articles online with close up pictures to allow you to identify the faulty part.

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Turns out that if you disconnect the lcd, digitizer... (or anything else) FIRST, instead of the battery, you are going to find yourself with a broken logic board, so, you have to replace it too. So, if you are going to replace the lcd o digitizer, disconnect the battery FIRST on disassembly, then lcd and digitizer, and reconnect the battery LAST.

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