I too am looking for the wires that ionize the air. Mine broke after 17 + years of shaking the beads back and forth vigorously trying to remove that carbon tracing. The wire I found is actually one continuous wire that is clamped at the bottom and double spring loaded at the top. I believe it is steel not copper or tin that has to be a very fine AWG around 25 - 30 or so. Too thick and the slow blow fuse will pop (that too I found out). All in all I am looking for the wire and the fuse which only has the rating of 250 volts and a ridiculous rating of 1500 L which has left me scratching my head. Might mean 1500 ms time delay or probably 1500 mA or 1.5 A. I found the L means time delay. Yes 17 years is a long time of continuous use but it should go indefinitely so long as it's weakest link, the ionizing wires, can be replaced when they finally burn off.
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=== Update (04/14/2018) ===
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With further investigation if the fuse is blown the entire rectifier system is blown along with the large 220 u/F capacitor. The diodes are shorted out. Replacing the fuse is not enough to "rectify" the problem. I will keep you posted with my progress.
I too am looking for the wires that ionize the air. Mine broke after 17 + years of shaking the beads back and forth vigorously trying to remove that carbon tracing. The wire I found is actually one continuous wire that is clamped at the bottom and double spring loaded at the top. I believe it is steel not copper or tin that has to be a very fine AWG around 25 - 30 or so. Too thick and the slow blow fuse will pop (that too I found out). All in all I am looking for the wire and the fuse which only has the rating of 250 volts and a ridiculous rating of 1500 L which has left me scratching my head. Might mean 1500 ms time delay or probably 1500 mA or 1.5 A. I found the L means time delay. Yes 17 years is a long time of continuous use but it should go indefinitely so long as it's weakest link, the ionizing wires, can be replaced when they finally burn off.