Vejam se conseguem me ajudar, por favor. Ao acessar o menu configuração do meu Switch Lite, percebi que tanto o analógico como e d-pad não rolam a barra para cima (isso só acontece no menu configuração). Ou seja, o d-pad e o analógico estão sensivelmente afetados, tanto que só percebi esse problema acessando o menu "configuração". Acredito que não estão atingindo seus valores máximos no eixo Y para cima. Sincronizei o joycon de outro Switch neste Switch lite, e mesmo assim o problema persistiu.

Vocês tem alguma ideia de qual é problema? Não é o flat, não é problema de calibração, não se trata de problema no d-pad e no analógico. Acredito que possa ser alguma resistência na placa mãe.

Em uma ocasião, passei álcool isopropílico perto do flat e nas resistências e capacitores que ficam ao entorno (vide foto), o d-pad e o analógico voltaram a funcionar 100%, mas depois o problema retornou após o álcool isopropílico evaporar 100%. Acredito que esse funcionando ocorreu devido a alguma interferência do álcool em alguma resistência.

Encaminho foto do setor que passei álcool. Encaminho também foto do menu a que me refiro. O comando para cima está sendo obedecido, tanto que a caixa de seleção se move entre as opções do menu. É só a barra de rolagem que não obedece o comando, ou seja, ela não rola.

Grato por qualquer ajuda.

Att, Erick

⟐ Commented outubro 23, 2024 at 0:10 GMT-7

⟐ Answered novembro 11, 2023 at 4:06 GMT-7

If you connect the joycons, the sides of the screen animate correctly showing that they do connect, but never goes any further than this.

In recovery mode, the joycons do not work either. I am guessing the issue is related to bluetooth (I assume the joycons will pair on connection, and this is failing) but I cannot be sure as I can't get past the initial "connect the joy cons" screen.

The main thing throwing me off here is that the joycons appear to connect

⟐ Commented agosto 07, 2026 at 3:40 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited agosto 06, 2026 at 3:00 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted agosto 03, 2026 at 22:37 GMT-7

I ordered a new right rail from eBay. I thought the rail might be the problem . I replaced it successfully but no change. If anyone has an idea i would appreciate it.

⟐ Commented agosto 03, 2026 at 12:26 GMT-7

⟐ Answered agosto 02, 2026 at 23:44 GMT-7

Has anyone else experienced this?

⟐ Commented julho 25, 2026 at 3:59 GMT-7

Switch 2 with both charging ports damaged. Replaced both ports and only 2 data lines were damaged on the main bottom port. Installed new lines and they show good on tester. There were 6 total ground lines damaged. 3 on top and 3 on the bottom. Replaced both ports and both ports are getting .512 amps. System is not jumping to the next stage to charge or turn on system. Not sure where to look on these. I don't see anything like a M92/P13/BQ or caps that test/look bad. Has anyone else had anything similar that was obvious? Much thanks for any guidance.

⟐ Commented julho 22, 2026 at 22:15 GMT-7

⟐ Commented julho 19, 2026 at 10:12 GMT-7

My game card catridge reader isnt working anymore(the pins got bent or broken). Any ideas where I could order a replacement part? And if there is any, since the console is like 6 months old.

Ty

⟐ Answered julho 17, 2026 at 15:16 GMT-7

Does anyone has the bottom rail for the red mario edition switch oled? Or can i request the part on a site like this, or elsewhere?

Bought a mint switch oled mario for a cheap price. The only thing what is wrong, is the bottom rail molten. Finding this piece is easier said than done. Thanks!

Mike

⟐ Commented julho 17, 2026 at 5:15 GMT-7

⟐ Commented julho 12, 2026 at 23:56 GMT-7

⟐ Answered julho 12, 2026 at 23:42 GMT-7

Has anyone tried this method? If so, are there any specific pitfalls I should watch out for? Also, are there existing guides I can use as prerequisites for removing the motherboard or midframe to make the process smoother for users? I want to make sure the guide is as efficient as possible while still being safe.

⟐ Answer accepted julho 10, 2026 at 6:21 GMT-7

I recently successfully replaced the M92T36 IC on a Nintendo Switch motherboard using a hot air station. The console now boots up and charges normally. However, I am now facing an issue with the Right Joy-Con.

When I slide the right Joy-Con into the rail, the console does not detect it as attached (it stays on wireless mode). I opened up the console again to inspect the area and noticed that the ribbon cable and the FPC connector look perfectly fine.

However, upon closer inspection of the small SMD component cluster right next to the FPC connectors, I noticed that one SMD component at the very bottom of the row is completely missing (likely blown away or knocked off accidentally during my hot air rework of the M92T36).

I have attached a micro photo of my board showing the missing component's empty pads, alongside some reference screenshots from the iFixit teardown guide for comparison.

My questions are:

1. Is this missing component a resistor (in-series) or a filter/bypass capacitor (to GND)?

2. What is the exact value/specification of this missing component (looks like a 0402 package)?

3. If it is a resistor on a data/detection line, can I safely bridge the pads with solder or a jumper wire to restore the detection functionality?

I have a multimeter, soldering iron, and hot air station ready to fix this. Any guidance or schematic insights would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for your help!

Nintendo Switch 2 has IC chip fried, need a replacement, Ive found out the type of chip theyre using CP10359at, and at other website its identified as cypd6228-96bzxi,,would this be a correct replacement to have it repaired? Can I buy CP10359at chip here?

Currently the Switch is not charging and battery has died.

⟐ Commented julho 08, 2026 at 15:00 GMT-7

What are some other ways to remove such a small, recessed, and stripped Tri-point screw without damaging the plastic shell? I don't want to drill it out if I can avoid it. Any advice from people who have dealt with this specific Joy-Con issue would be appreciated!

⟐ Commented julho 06, 2026 at 22:09 GMT-7